Question about LG Refrigerators
I have an LG refrigerator freezer model number GR-S392GC that keeps tripping the power box. I plugged the fridge into another source but it kept shorting out. I isolated the issue to the harness wire connector with the 2 orange wires, light blue and grey. Fridge and freezer works now without light and temp control led lights but remains cold. As soon as I plug those coloured connectors, the fridge shorts again and stops working. I think the circuitry diagram on the back of the fridge relates to Def-Sensor and Door-S/W. I think it might be the defrosting sensor but do I need to replace the door switch too? and what part number must I get and how to access these to replace in these places? Cheers!
Posted by Anonymous on
The concept for a DRYER is the same for a washer or fridge in some instances
The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.
To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.
Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.
Posted on Apr 17, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Either the thermostate is defective or refrigerent blocked or leaked or the relay is not functioning properly. Only on inspection of the above parts could pronounce the right remedy.
Posted on Jul 06, 2009
SOURCE: freezer workig fridge not cold
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