Question about Liebherr Refrigerators
Built into cabinet model
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Freezer Drawer Stuck
Our 550 bottom freezer drawer froze shut earlier this week and the motor made an unusual sound, like it was working too hard. Two of us eventually were able to open the drawer to find that it had frozen shut due to a leak which filled the ice tray solid and then adhered to the actual door, freezing it shut. We emptied the fridge and freezer, turned the control dials down to 0, but neither the motor nor the light would go off. We finally killed the circuit breaker to get the appliance to shut down. It's cleaned and defrosted and we noticed that the gasket has torn in three places, two on the fridge door and one on the freezer door. The freezer door could be from our tugging, but the refrigerator door is normal wear and tear. We filled the tears with some kind of putty and when it is dry we will start everything up again. This is not the first problem of this nature we have experienced with our subzero 550, but it is the most dramatic. Each previous time we have called a repair man out and he has been unable to fix it.
Posted on Aug 30, 2007
i never go by that / just hold my finger over the air port and move it till i feel move air or less to set it the way i need it ,,, less air puts less air into crisper to cut down on freezing
Posted on Nov 26, 2008
The adjusta cube ice maker has an on/off switch. To stop the ice from overfilling and being knocked off when you open the freezer door turn the ice maker off and then back on as needed.
Posted on Apr 02, 2009
There are 2 things that cause these to not defrost. Kinda like the "Achilles heel" of GE fridges. The first one is the Defrost heater itself. And the second is the evaporator thermister (GE calls it a "sensor"). They are both very easy to replace. The part numbers are; WR51X10101 (heater) and WR55X10025 (sensor). If you don't have a local appliance parts retailer, just plug those numbers into a search engine. I highly recommend getting both parts because if the sensor hasn't failed yet, it will. The same goes for the heater...
Now for the fun stuff... Turn the temp knobs all the way counter clockwise to kill power to the fridge. Unload all the food from the freezer and remove all the shelves and the basket. Remove the screws that are holding the evap panel (the flat panel on the back wall, it's about 2 1/2 ft tall). Remove the panel to expose the evaporator. You'll see the heater at the very bottom of the evap connected by 2 screws, remove these and pull the heater out. Your new heater comes with instructions on how to install it.
After you have done that, look at the top of the evap. On the left, you'll see a little white sensor clipped to one of the evap tubes (shiny little clip), that has 2 wires feeding it. Remember which tube it's clipped to then unclip the sensor and pull it toward you. Snip the wires right at the base of the old sensor and completely remove it (leave the wires in there). Now separate those 2 wires and strip about 3/8" of insulation off. At this point, you are ready to follow the instructions that came with your new "sensor". Oh! and if it's all frosted up on the evap? Take this time (before you re-install the panel) to use a blow dryer and melt it away. All that'll be left to do is rebuild it.
There ya go! Job completion time= ~45 minutes. Easy breezy, right?
If this has been helpful, please don't forget to rate my solution. Thanks!
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
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