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Dryer was not getting hot. Pulled it apart element seems fine but it looks like it may of been overheating at one point. wires look slightly melted

Series 80 electric dryer

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Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.

Posted on Mar 30, 2015

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My Inglis dryer is overheating. How do I troubleshoot this problem? Thanks...


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Hi,
The cycling or operating thermostatis often the problem when a dryer runstoo hot, but there are also other things that can make it run hot also.

Here is a tip that I wrote that gives more details about why a clothes dryer will get too hot.

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Sounds like you have something shorted out.

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You do have a potential fire hazzard here. If after removing the panel you cannot locate the problem, do not run the unit.

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but check your outlet voltage it should read 220 across the poles anything else it could eb trouble

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My Whirlpool dryer LER3624EQ1 is overheating


If you open the dryer quick enough during a cycle, you will see the element glow. That's normal. It sounds like a belt problem. Something is causiing the drum to drag which will cause the belt not to turn as easy. This, in turn, will make the motor work harder and overamp as it is trying to move the belt but it is just sitting and spinning and burning the belt. Look for something like a rear drum bearing or tensioner pulley causing the problem. Continuity test just show that there is a complete circuit. This is confirmed by the element getting hot. Also, if you motor is not turning at the correct speed, this will slow down the amount of air being moved across the element. This will also cause excessive heating of the element.

Good luck and hope this helps.

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Frigidaire dryer overheating


the other tstat is on front of blower housing..lift top remove screws at top of front panel from inside remove switch wires front lifts off ..be sure to ck vent first most dryers have thermal fuses that will blow if overheating does occur since yours seems to be working i would suspect vent first..if your concerned about dryer being hot to touch along top rear this is normal heating element is located just below console at rear

Nov 13, 2008 | Dryers

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Dryer takes too long to heat


Okay...I'm not familiar with the configuration of Fisher and Paykel dryers. I am familiar with many other dryers, though. If the wires become melted this is usually caused by excessive current flow or a loose connection. When wires at a terminal become loose the intermittent connection can cause arcing which leads to the generation of heat, which causes the wire or connector to burn open. I have also seen heating elements short out against the casing and cause an excessive current flow problem.

Just so we're clear here, current is the force that causes electrons to flow. It is usually measured in amperes (or amps). What you are measuring is the voltage. Voltage is the difference in potential between two points. If you were to measure voltage between two points (such as through a simple wire coil) you would read 0 volts because there is no differnce in potential between the two points, as the coil should read a short. Now, if you have a RESISTIVE coil, or a coil that is open (broken) the same measure would yield a voltage reading, because there is now a difference in potential between the two points. Does this make sense to you? I know it can be confusing at times because you normally associate a voltage reading as something being good. In a nutshell: if you measure across a wire coil and read voltage - the coil is open. If you read 0 volts - the coil is good.

Who knows what caused the melted wire in your appliance. The one thing I am sure of is this is not normal. If you want to replace the relay to be sure, that is your judgement call. Relays do go bad. I would strongly recommend replacing the heating element as it appears that this model has a dual element that will still work (to some degree) if one side fails. Very ingenious design, by the way.

In addition, a lot of heat related problems associated with dryers are attributed to poor ventilation. A dryer requires proper air flow in order to work efficiently. If you have not cleaned or inspected your dryer vent ducting recently (or ever), you may want to. This is the source of many dryer malfunctions and can create a fire hazard or habitat for rodents. The rule of thumb when it comes to ventialtion is: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the ventilation, the BETTER. Every bend or rise you put in a dryer exhaust vent line creates resistance against the blower motor and possible choke points for lint to accumulate. The lint screens in dryers are not perfect and they do not collect ALL the lint. Simply cleaning the lint trap in many cases is not enough. Cleaning after every use, however, does cut down on the potential for your ducting to become clogged. If a dryer is allowed to run in a condition where it has poor air flow, the heating circuits will actually overheat to the point of failure. I mention all of this because I don't want you to replace parts only to have the appliance fail again due to poor ventilation.

I hope you find some of this information helpful. Let em know if you have any further questions.

Sep 12, 2008 | Fisher and Paykel DEGX1 Electric Dryer

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What was your solution???


I also had this problem. I looked on this site and before even opening up the machine, ordered a new heating element. After I received the new heating element which came with a service booklet, I opened the top of my machine. I started to begin the process of getting to the heating element(a very long process) when I noticed a red wire connecting to the thermostat was burnt and its plastic insulator was melted. I then pulled out the thermostat (a very long needle) and took the advice of Jagjared and opened up the thermostat and cleaned it. I then cut the burnt part of the red wire and connector off and stripped a small amout of the red wire and attached a new insulated connector that I purchased at the hardware store. I then reinserted the thermostat(which took a while because its hard to find the hole that the needle goes into) and then connected both hot and ground wires. I'm not sure what Jagjared meant when he said that he was able relocate the thermostat because I'm only able to place it exactly where I pulled it out. Maybe he can explain?? Anyway, this was a very easy fix. I think I'm pretty handy but would consider myself only an amatuer when it comes to issues like this. I think I might have had a very difficult time actually replacing the heating element so I'm glad I didn't have to. Hope this helps you all.

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Whirlpool Dryer extremely hot


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