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The upper looper on my Bernette 334Ds overlocker will not move backwoods and forward hence no loops or stitches being made. How do I fix this?

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  • Sewing Machines Master
  • 8,899 Answers

Has it been professionally cleaned and oiled recently? Even though the manuals usually don't provide instructions for oiling the inside of a serger, they do need it periodically because of all the moving parts. If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, then maybe a trip to the Bernina technician is in order. (Please if you try it yourself, be sure you have the proper oil, preferably Bernina serger oil--not Bernina sewing machine oil.)

Posted on Mar 30, 2015

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Singer 14T967dc serger runs but does not stitch


Hello Laura

Make sure that the lower looper thread is in front of and over the upper looper thread when threading the serger; when threading for overlocking.

Please let me know how this worked out for you
Happy serging

Feb 24, 2017 | Singer Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Why won't my sl370 work?


Hello Mary.
By the question, it looks like the lower looper is making loops? If so, check that you are using the correct needles for your serger and that the needle or needles is/are inserted correctly:
- needles must be all the way up into the needle shaft
- needles must face with the flat side to the back and the groove to the front
- use at least needle size 12/80, not smaller

Check these few items, if the loops are still not forming:
- re-thread the serger from the start, keeping in mind to thread in the proper sequence (upper looper, lower looper, needles)
- make sure that the lower looper thread lays on top of the upper looper thread and is passed to the back of the serger and then under the presser foot when threading
- make sure that the thread are securely engaged IN the tension assembly
- make sure that the serger is set for 3-thread or 4-thread overlock (i.e. that the upper looper converter is not engaged)
- check all tension setting
- stitch length should be around 2.5 - 3.5

Let me know how it goes.
Happy serging!

May 02, 2015 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Toyota SL3455DS overlocker tension problems


Did you thread in the proper order? Upper looper, lower looper, needles from right to left?

Oct 06, 2012 | Sewing Machines

2 Answers

I need a manual for a Simplicity Easy Lock Serger SL4300. I got it from a friend and she didn't have the manual. The loops are over the top of the material sticking out to far and I do not know how...


You can purchase a manual for this machine from the following link for $US14.99

http://www.sewingpartsonline.com/instruction-manual-simplicity-sl4300.aspx

I can't see it anywhere for free download unfortunately. But you may find that looking at a manual for another 4 thread overlocker may get you started. If you try this link http://www.singerco.com/accessories/instruction-manuals you can look at the free Singer downloads,
try this link for their 654 3/4 thread model http://www.singerco.com/uploads/download/555_14sh644_654-(e_s_f)-(new-led-version).pdf
it may give you some help now.

Essentially, to change the stitch width you can either move the lower fixed blade wider to cut less fabric or tighten up the upper and lower looper threads in order to close up the stitching.

Moving the blade usually means opening up the front cover door, putting pressure on the upper blade and swinging it up out of the way. Then you can adjust the lower blade, usally by turning a knob near to it. Sometimes this knob will be marked 1, 2, 3.

Adjusting the looper tensions is done by changing the tension dial settings for the thread needing adjusting. If its a standard four thread overlocker that produces a "marrow" seam it will have two needles and two loopers, upper and lower. Generally on most overlockers, the upper looper will be the second from right tension dial and lower looper will be right most tension dial - turn up one half number to tighten, or down one half number increment to loosen, then test stitch again. The needles shouldn't need adjusting too often.

I usually start with all tension dials on 5, test stitch, then adjust from there. Some fabrics will tunnel (pull in) if the seam is too wide so you need to either move the blade to the left and trim more fabric or loosen off the loopers. Or in the reverse, like you are getting, the threads will hang off the edge.

There is some good serger information on Debbis Cosgrove's pages www.sewing.about.com but if you have never used a serger, then getting the genuine manual is probably best.

Oct 16, 2011 | Simplicity Serge Pro SW432 Mechanical...

1 Answer

What setting are the three threads set on for a rolled hem on a singer ultralock l4sh654 and what is the lever by the plate for?


Rolled hemming on any overlocker is usually achived the following way. Right hand needle only.
Blade over to the right usually to cut wider than normal but you can vary this to suit the fabric and stitch width you want.
Thread in this needle and the upper and lower loopers. If you can source any, use woolly overlock thread in the upper looper, this fluffs out when not tensioned and covers the fabric to give the look of solid stitching. Change upper looper tension to about 2 and lower looper tension to about 6 or 7.

The lever by the plate is usually to control the little stitch finger where the stitches are formed, move it backwards and it should move back towards you?? If this happens, then you want it in the retracted (towards you) position for rolled hemming so the stitching is much smaller and the fabric can roll. Normally this stitch finger holds the fabric firm for the loopers to form the stitch over for your normal 3 or 4 thread overlock.

Now test stitch and see how it looks. Tighten the lower looper thread so it lays right beside the needle on the underside. You may need to then tighten or loosen more the upper looper, you want the upper thread to wrap all the way around to the underneath against the lower looper thread and needle.

The cut edge of fabric should roll to underneath inside your seam. Once you've got this happening, turn the stitch length down to 0.5 or so to close it right up tight. This uses heaps of thread so I usually test everything else, then close it up at the end to minimise waste.

Hope this makes sense, good luck.

Sep 22, 2011 | Singer 14SH654

1 Answer

How do I create a rolled hem with this machine. I see the stitch width knob, but do I need to remove one of the threads for this?


Making a rolled hem on any overlocker is achieved in the following way:

use right hand needle only and top and bottom loopers. Turn stitch length down so threads are closed up (on mine this is 0.5). Your stitch length dial will be one on the right hand side near the flywheel usually. Loosen off the the top looper tension and tighten up the bottom looper tension (these are the right and 2nd right tension dials on front of the machine). On my Bernette I leave the needle at the usual 5, 2 on the top looper and 6.5 to 7 on the bottom looper thread. Move cutting blade position to the right so that you are trimming the fabric quite a bit wider than your stitch, this makes the fabric "roll" underneath inside the stitching to form the rolled edge or hem.

There is also another step that needs to happen where you change or remove a little stitch finger that sits in the pressure foot or just under it. On the Bernettes, you flick a lever to move this stitch finger back towards the operator so it is out of the stitch forming area. On some machines, it is a case of changing the little stitch finger which is screwed onto the pressure foot with a screwdriver.

I really don't know with your Necchi which it is but have a good look at the pressure foot, and around the blade cutting area and see if you can see a lever or check out the accessory bag and see if there is another stitch finger in there, it would be smaller than the one on the foot now. In effect, this finger sits out and the threads wrap around it to form your normal overlock but for rolled hem you want a much smaller finger in place to make a very little seam.

The other variable which makes a very neat job is to use a thread called "wooly Overlock" in the upper looper only. This thread when pulled under tension is tight looking but when you let it go, it fluffs out. So when seaming on a rolled hem it fills out the stitching and covers the edge of the fabric fully giving a smooth look. You can do it without but wooly thread makes a great job and you'll see it on all Ready to Wear seams usually for this reason.

If I am going to roll hem a fine sheer woven fabric like organza or chiffon I will change the needle to make sure it is nice and sharp and also ensure it is a regular point, not a ball point (I seam lots of knits so have ball points in most of the time on mine) Usually a size 80 is fine.

I hope this gets you going with your overlocker, I usually test stitch quite a bit with the stitch length at the normal 2.5 setting and adjust the looper tensions until I've got the stitch looking good, then turn it down to the very close 0.5, just to not waste a ton of thread.

Sep 09, 2011 | Necchi 6002 Sewing Machine

1 Answer

I am trying to do a rolled hem using a singer ultralock 14sh654. Do I disengage the knife? The stitches are uneven and some are quite loose no matter how much I adjust the tension. I am positive I...


no, you need the blade in place and cutting to give an even cut fabric edge. Set up for a three thread using the right hand needle, take out the left hand needle. move blade over to the right so it is cutting wide. Most overlockers there is also a thread finger you need to change on the foot, or a little lever you flick to move this finger forward into the stitching area. Check this on your manual as each make is a bit different.
If you can source it, put wooly nylon thread into the upper looper (knot it onto existing thread and just chain it through, the knot should go through the looper eye fine). Now turn the tension on top looper down so it is looser and tighten up tension on bottom looper, so needle 5, top looper 2 and bottom looper about 7.

Now test serge, the fabric cut edge should be wider than the overlocking seam so the fabric rolls under inside the stitching. Adjust the two looper threads so that this is happening, you want the bottom looper thread to nest right up against the needle stitch and the top looper thread to wrap all the way around too.

Once you've got this happening, turn the stitch length down to 0.5, to close the stitching right up. On some fabrics you'll need to adjust the differential feed too if the fabric is "waving" a bit.

Uneven stitches or sometimes loose when serging could indicate that one of the tension devices is faulting, so if this machine is not new and its doing this, it could need a service. Can you get a regular smooth three or 4 thread seam out if it???

It is always good to just recheck the threading path, make sure the thread aerial is up and that a thread hasn't got caught back on the thread stand somewhere if you're getting something wonky happening, threads stream off overlocker cones through the machine so anything wrong in the thread path will throw off the stitching.

Jun 25, 2011 | Singer 14SH654

1 Answer

I need to switch to rolled hemming and can't find my manual


Is this on a serger?

Rolled hemming on a serger is usually achieved by doing the following: thread up for three thread overlock using right hand needle. Move blade to the right to trim fabric wider (so it rolls inside the seam). Put woolly overlock thread through top looper (this gives a smooth finish to the rolled hem). Loosen off top looper and tighten up bottom looper so the bottom looper is up tight against the needle thread on the underside. Test serge to get the stitch right, then turn the stitch length down to 0.5 to close it up tight (this uses loads of thread so I usually get everything else right first, then make this final adjustment). On my Bernette 334D tensions are R-Needle - 5, Top looper 7-8 and bottom looper is 3-4. Stitch length 0.5, differential zero.

And usually you flick a small lever or change a little finger on the foot or plate where the stitch forms, there is some variation here between models. Early Elna L4 and L5 locks you had a little finger you changed with a screwdriver on the pressure foot. Bernette has a little slide mechanicism near the blade that you flick forward to engage.

Hope this is of assistance to you - I went for a 2 hour lesson on my serger when I bought it and then came home and repeated all the techniques shown and then made notes and stapled all the stitch samples into a notebook so I could remember how I did it.

Also there are some great books on Serging, Nancy Zieman is one name that springs to mind. Or try You-Tube, she has some videos up there too showing different techniques.


Apr 27, 2011 | Janome Sewing Machines

2 Answers

I have a bernina overlocker and whenever I use it the lower looper (marked in red) thread breaks. How can I fix this? It was serviced yesterday and when other people used it before me it worked fine!


Then it's one of two things. First try setting your lower looper tension on 3 and see if that works. If not set it back on 4 and cut ALL your threads and re-thread the machine STARTING with the UPPER looper, then the lower looper, then the right needle, last the left needle if you're sewing a 4 thread overlock stitch. Make sure the threads aren't twisted in the thread guide. Make sure the lower looper thread is OVER the elbow on the upper looper and over the upper looper thread. Let me know if this works. We'll work until we get it fixed!

Sep 14, 2010 | Sewing Machines

2 Answers

I want to know which knob I use to make the stitching narrower


there are generally two variable controls .. one adjusts the stitch length (distance between stitches measured in stitches per inch) ... the second is stitch width .. that adjusts how far the zigzag moves left and right .. thats usually just a number from 0 to 10 or so .. 10 would be maximum width .. 0 would be used for straight stitch ..
so you need to adjust the stitch width control to make the stitching narrower .. the controls are called different things on different brand sewing machines .. if you have the brand and model number then there may be instruction booklets available ...

Jan 04, 2010 | Sewing Machines

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