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Fuel choking, changed filters, cleaned sediment bowl, blown out tank to sediment line, changed lift pump, checked bottom of tank, clean, suction screen in tank clean, starts ok, but dies while operating, engine slows, then picks up, cannot find solution

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  • Garden Master
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Check the hose from the tank I had one collapse internally last year fuel would not pass thru it

Posted on Mar 28, 2015

Testimonial: "this problem is on farm fastrac, I didn't know this site was only lawnmower size tractors, fuel line is steel"

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2 Answers

When I move the choke to run the motor dies....even after 30 minutes of running.


No, but it sounds if the carb needs to be cleaned! Fresh fuel helps too. Check the spark plug and check the breather filter. Also you can crank the engine with the breather filter off and try to move the choke to run then. If it runs with the filter off then there is your problem! 1 question, has anyone try to work on it or adjust the carb in any way?

Sep 25, 2014 | Honda Pressure Washer PSI 3000

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Why am I having fuel issues with a 97' f-250 7.3 powerstroke, put new sensors on everything, new fuel lift pump, glow plugs,filter, new tank filter, cleaned all the lines from tank to the fuel bowl, s


If this situation occurs after a period of time then check the tank vent correctly at the vent valve on top of the tank. If it occurs reasonably quickly then check the fuel return lines from the injectors to the tank for obstruction ,kinks ,squashed etc preventing the fuel free access to the tank. check the pressure regulator to the pump is holding sufficient pressure to maintain pressure to the pumpin the pump

May 02, 2014 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

1 Answer

Murray mower starts with choke but dies


most likely your main jet in the carb is clogged, water in fuel, or a plugged fuel line, filter, or plugged in the tank where the fuel line connects. it is common to have a plug where the fuel line exits the fuel tank if there is a 90 degree turn in the fitting, debris may build up in the 90 degree area. check by replacing old fuel with new, then pull fuel line from carb and fuel should flow freely, look for a blocked fuel line if it does not flow. it it does flow, pinch off fuel line then remove the float bowl to drain remaining gas and give acess to the main jet. the main jet is located in the side or bottom of the lowest protruding area into the float bowl. run a thin wire like a guitar string thru the small jet hole to unplug, then squirt a little wd-40 thru jet hole to visually check flow. next, unpinch fuel line and fuel should flow from carb into float bowl area. then check to make sure the fuel stops flowing when the float is gently lifted to the top of its travel. if problem in this area, remove float pin, float, and needle valve and check for blockage in the needle valve seat. clean out with wd-40 and reassemble, add fresh gas and give it a try!

Aug 20, 2012 | Briggs & Stratton Garden

2 Answers

I have a John deere 316 with a onan and it will not run unless the choke is almost closed, I have checked the fuel flow and the compression and all seems good. What do you think is wrong?


hello sir, mower will not start or run,runs only when primming, does it have good spark,good compression,or only runs on full choke, are you getting fuel to the engine if not try this,your fuel pump or your carb. is clogged up here is what you can do for a simple repair for the carb,you can remove the air filter and assy, empty fuel tank and clean out tank and line,remove the bowl nut and bowl careful of the gaskets,now spray carb cleaner in the small port holes in the carb steam in the middle of the carb until clean,now spray the bowl nut holes until clean there are three,after cleaning put bowl on the same way you removed it with dip towards front of float,put bow, and fresh gas,you should be good to go,hope this helps.,thank you.~~

Feb 22, 2012 | John Deere 420,1020,2010,2020,2510,2520...

1 Answer

Prime bulb on leaf blower will not pop back out. The bulb is in good condition. The leaf blower will only start on full choke and eventually stalls out. Fuel lines are good and I have torn apart the...


Hi there, The manual primer is a pump and relies on its ability to deform and revert back to it's original shape in order to pull fuel from the tank, through the carb and into the primer bowl when released and pump what's in the bowl back to tank when pressed. The system uses one or lately two valves in the primer body to achieve this pumping action. It looks like your looking in the right area (running only on choke is a clue too) as I suspect that you have a blockage on the suction side ie anywhere between the fuel filter and the primer bowl. It is possible that the fuel lines are collapsing internally under vacuum closing off the fuel supply. Another area to look is the carb itself. You've probably discovered that there is a filter in the carb body on the fuel pump side under the diaphragm - this an extremely fine mesh and can give the appearance of being clean when in fact gummed up. This filter feeds the needle valve which in turn allows fuel into the metering section and then into the air stream via the mixture control screws for high and low speed (H & L) It is possible that the needle valve is sticking and thus also restricting fuel supply. When cleaning carbs out don't use carb cleaner - sounds odd, I know, but most carb cleaners are unsuitable for diaphragm carbs, OK sparingly for the outside but not the inside unless it says on the tin that is safe for diaphragm carbs. Use Brake and Clutch cleaner. Happy hunting !

Nov 06, 2010 | Garden

1 Answer

Gas Lawnmower start and then shuts off....


Ok here are 2 possible solutions.
1. If you have a mower with a sediment bowl under the carb and flat paper air filter, try this. Drain gas from gas tank. Remove the screw that holds the air filter cover. Replace air filter is dirty. Remove the two or three screws that are holding the flat plastic back of air filter cover. Remove the little gasket that is between the flat plastic back and sediment bowl. Make sure you remove all of old gasket. Clean the area around the sediment bowl so it is free of dirt and grim. Use a 1/2 socket (usually) and remove the bolt on underside of the bulb. The remaining gas in the bowl and a little left in the tank will leak out. I let it all run out so if any water is in tank it emptys on its own. Remove the bowl and clean it out with clean rag or paper towel. Use some carb and choke cleaner to spray the carb. Reattach the bowl, and tighten the bolt making sure the ruber gasket between the bowl and carb is not twisted or you will have leaks. Install a new gasket between carb and air filter back replace 2 or 3 screws and air filter and cover. Refill with gas, prime it and then try and start it.

2. If your carb is located ontop of the fuel tank, remove the cross tip screws that hold carb to tank and get a new diaphram (fuel pump in a sense). Replace diaphram and reassemble in reverse. You will have to also remove the bolt that holds tank to motor and the little metal rod that goes from the govonor to the choke.

From what you stated I would think it is number 1.

Good luck. Let me know if this helps.

roundo4

Aug 14, 2009 | Craftsman Garden

1 Answer

Briggs & Stratton engine on Murray lawn mower running rough. Changed spark plug, cleaned filter, drained fuel tank and line. Still running rough. What to do next?


I always replace the air filter if its a paper element, and even if its a foam element I replace it rather than clean it. That said, engine stumbling is rarely and air flow problem - but it could be, so having a new filter assures no air restrictions.

I would drop the carbuerator bowl. On the bottom of the carb, near where the fuel line comes into the engine, should be a nut. Removing this nut allows the bowl to drop off the carb. Some engines the bowl screws off, you will have to look at the bowl. Often the bowl has sediment or sludge buildup inside. Cleaning the bottom of the bowl can prevent that sludge/sediment from plugging the intake tube. Even on newer mower models this is a common problem, the gas line tubing interior breaks down and the inside of the tubing can start degrading - ending up in the bowl as sludge.

After cleaning the bowl, I would add one ounce of fuel line cleaner to a full tank of fuel and run the entire tank of fuel. This will clean any deposits or "varnish" from the interior carb parts. Doing this and the first step will assure your carb is clean and functioning.

If that doesn't help, then I would look at the spacing between the magneto and coil assembly. If you want to do that I'd like you to write down all the model numbers and serial numbers on the engine nameplate, that way I can give you specific directions.

Hope this helps,
Gregg

Mar 29, 2009 | Garden

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