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The refrigeration is short cycling. The cause may be due to airflow problem. There is an outside fan thalt blows across a radiator and another in the inside the fridge enclosed behind panels.
These two fans must run and blow across the refrigeration radiators. The outside one can clog with lint and dirt, the inside one can clog with ice buid up, or the fans simply quit working. Check that the fans run and that the radiator coils are clean and clear to airflow. For the outside one, paneling will need to be removed, as well for the inside one if the outside one does not do the trick.
The refrigerator compressor short cycles because it overheats. The cool refrigeration gas entering the compressor cools it and when the gas is not kept cool, the compressor may short cycle.
There may be a different problem but checking for airflow is a start.
Most modern vehicles using an electric cooling fan have a thermostatic switch that will allow them to run even after the engine is turned off.
Start and stop driving can cause heat buildup in the block which can cause problems such as the one you have and if the fan isn't bringing the excessive heat down during a stop, the hot engine can refuse to idle or accept fuel as it should.
You should listen to see if the fan is turning on after the ignition is off; this is sometimes delayed for a minute or so until the thermostatic switch adjusts to the rising block temperature and starts the fan.
If the main fan is belt-driven, it may be the AC fan that is used for this purpose.
over heating while stopped usually indicates that the radiator fan is not coming on ...when the engine is running hot you should be able to hear the fan running .. if it doesnt then suspect the thermal switch mounted on the radiator .. make sure the fan turns freely .. the fan is not needed when the car is moving so it wont heat up as long as you are driving .. but will do so when stopped if thats the trouble .. sometimes the thermal switch operates a relay that in turn operates the fan ..that could also cause the trouble ..
there is a switch in the engine intake or cylinder head that controls the cooling fans. The switch is the one with only 1 green wire hooked to it. Turn the key to run, with the engine stopped pull this wire off and touch it to a ground( cylinder head, engine block) and the fan should start, if not look at the fuse, if it does you need to replace the switch.
A simple test would involve disconnecting the fan switch while the fan is on. If the fan then stops the switch has failed. If the fan continues to run remove the relay , if the fan then stops the relay has failed. Various inputs/outputs at the relay should be confirmed to be 100% certain something strange isn't going on. Above all be careful of the fan itself , if it's running obviously but if it's not it could start during repair
Your oven has a fan to draw in cool air at the bottom of the front panel, pass it around the case, and then blow it out at a position towards the top of the oven. This is a completely different fan that is at the back of the oven itself.
The cooling fan is necessary as the materials in modern ovens are kept light and thin as possible to save weight and manufacturing costs, however the flipside of this is that if not cooled by the cooling fan, they would be damaged by the heat inside the oven itself.
The cooling fan will continue to run for some time after the oven is switched off, because it will wait until the oven has fully cooled down before stopping the cooling fan.