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Permanent air lock means your system has leak sum were or your reserve tank and radiator cup not function propebly full radiator fit cup Rev engine up to 1500to 2000 few times stop engine and top up sum time take 10 times.
Check your temp sender in case its faulty, but if the enging feels that hot then its could be a number of things. Start with a possibly blocked radiator, or it could be a blown head gasket (is the water system getting pressurised? remove filler cap WHEN COLD and start engine, if it blows the water out or you see bubbles then its a gasket. It could also be that the system is just airlocked (having the header bottle (if fitted) higher than the engine when filling should maybe sort that, also check your heater pipes for bleed scews (fitted if airlocks are a problem on some cars) or maybe youve fitted the thermostat upside down, (check direction of flow). Personally I would go for either an airlocked system or a wrongly fitted thermostat.
You could have an airlock still in the system. Run the vehicle at idle and squeeze the top and bottom radiator hoses with the expansion bottle cap removed. Add fluid gradually to it keeping it under the full marker. The bubbling is super hot air caused by air trapped either in the engine block, or top of radiator. A little tip while doing this, have the heaters on in the car and on high heat with the fans running at high speed. If you notice the engine getting warm and the heating in the car stays cold, the airlock is going to need a bit more work. Eventually if you have replaced the head gasket correctly the air lock with come out.
Hope this helped...
radiator removal procedure is similar among all of the GM W-Body
vehicles. A variety of bolts, nuts, clips and fasteners are used. The
following procedure should suffice for all W-Body vehicles.
Use care when working underhood around the cooling fans. The fans
are controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to come on at a
certain temperature, even with the engine turned off. Always disconnect
the negative battery cable to prevent the fans from starting without
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Drain the coolant from the radiator.
Never open, service or drain the radiator or cooling system when
hot; serious burns can occur from the steam and hot coolant. Also, when
draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted
to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an
uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal
in sufficient quantities. Always drain coolant into a sealable
container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is
several years old.
Remove the engine mount strut. Some technicians will disconnect
just one and swing the strut out of the way. In this case, loosen the
through bolts to prevent shearing the rubber bushings when the strut is
moved out of the way for radiator removal. In some cases, it is best to
remove the strut and its mounting bracket completely.
Separate the cooling fan harness connector from the engine
Separate the low coolant level module harness connector at the
Disconnect the radiator hoses.
Remove the cooling fan assembly from the vehicle, as outlined in
Disconnect the automatic transaxle cooling lines from the radiator
There should be two small retaining brackets at both ends of the
radiator that are removed.
Carefully lift the radiator up and out of the vehicle. Note that
the bottom should have locating pins on each end which should fit into
grommet-like rubber mounts at installation.
Fig. Radiator and related components-2000 Intrigue shown, others
similar (click for zoom)
Use care when handling the radiator. It is constructed of aluminum
and should be handled carefully. Install the radiator, making sure that
the lower locating pins on each end fit into the grommet-like rubber
Connect the transaxle cooling lines to the radiator.
Assemble both the cooling fan harness connector and the low
coolant level module harness connectors.
Install the remaining components in the reverse order of the
removal process. When refilling the cooling system, use the proper mix
of DEX-COOL® and water. Check for leaks.
first check to see if your heater hoses are getting warm you may just have a bad thermostat, if you've had any recent work done to the cooling system you may have an airlock which does not allow any coolant too flow through the heater core. do you smell antifeeze ?
its prob not airlocked but plugged , your going too have too turn off the supply and open a line on the downhill side , and drain it then open the supply line , and flush it out,!!!!
in other words disconect both lines from the raidiator, and flush it out till you get a steady flow of water on both sides!!!
Your overheating problems can have several possible causes.
1) Airlock in heating system - solution - bleed air from cooling system. Method is dependent on make/model of vehicle
2) Radiator blocked - solution - drain and flush radiator
3) Failed waterpump - solution - fit new waterpump
4) Engine thermostat stuck in closed position - solution - fit new thermostat
5) Electric cooling fan (if fitted) failing to operate - solution - check fan, fan operating switch, all wiring and connectors
6) Not enough coolant in system - solution - check and top up to required level. Also check all hoses for sign of leakage.
7) Faulty temperature gauge giving incorrect reading
Your overheating problems can have several possible causes. 1) Airlock in heating system - solution - bleed air from cooling system.
2) Radiator blocked - solution - drain and flush radiator 3) Failed waterpump - solution - fit new waterpump 4) Engine thermostat stuck in closed position - solution - fit new thermostat 5) Electric cooling fan (if fitted) failing to operate - solution - check fan, fan operating switch, all wiring and connectors 6) Not enough coolant in system - solution - check and top up to required level. Also check all hoses for sign of leakage. 7) Faulty temperature gauge giving incorrect reading.
Should be located in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose Drain about 1 gallon of coolant from the radiator Remove this housing Note how thermostat is installed Clean both surfaces Replace thermostat and gasket Re-install housing Re-fill coolant slowly to prevent an airlock Start engine and look for leaks Run engine to normal operating temperature with heater on Check coolant level
your completely right mate about most conventional heating systems are open vented unless its a pressurised system..im a plumber and had at least 4 chrome towel rail rads that this has happened with,its a manufacures problem not yours,
send it back