I bought my cooler the other day, and now the buttons on the front are not working right. The "Temp UP" and "degrees F & C" buttons work, but the "Temp DOWN" button just cycles between F & C. So now I can not turn down the cooler. Does anyone know if this is a common problem, or am I gonna have to return it to the store?
I unscrewed the top plate, removed 2 screws on circuit board for display, removed the ribbon tape and pulled off the front digital display(stuck on with sticky tape) and then replaced the same display unit and the buttons are working now... going to search online for new display.
Disconnect the ribbon tape from the circuit card and let the temperature go to default (between 38 & 43 degrees). The cheap plastic and paper buttons on the front of the unit are of a bad design and moisture gets trapped in the area and the buttons malfunction.
I got a Danby Kegerator for fathers day 2009 and the temperature controller didn't work either. I called Danby and they sent me a new controller. It only took 2 days to get the new controller and all it is, is a tape on LED strip that stick on the front and plug it in.. It took 10 minutes and a phillips screwdriver to install. Also, for the previous poster, I have no issues with smell or taste..
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First what temperature is it tripping at ? Have you removed the oil fill plug and visually inspected the oil level. It should be filled to the oil fill plug threads. 228 degrees F is the temp the air end temp sensor should trip the unit at, approx. You need to know the ambient temp. where the unit is located. add 100 degrees F to the ambient and that is what the unit should be operating at. ( ex. 100 + 95 amb compressor should operate at approx. 195 degrees F.) If the unit is tripping at 180 or even 215 you probably have a bad temp sensor. It would be unusual for 2 units to have temp sensors go bad at the same time but it could happen. OK if the unit is tripping at or around 228 check the following: Oil/air cooler - (Radiator). It should be clean on both sides. It can be blown out with air or washed out with a 1200 psi pressure washer. When complete you should be able to see thru the cooler, and have good air flow thru it at any location especially corners. Next the thermostat could be the problem. when starting the unit up cold check the return line from the cooler with your hand. If the panel reads 190 to 200 their should be oil flowing thru the cooler. if it stays cool replace the thermostat. The thermostat should open at 170 degrees F. If you have a temp gun use it to check temps on the 3 lines from the thermostat. you are looking for a 25 to 30 degree drop across the cooler. Last but not least if all looks good and the unit is just prematurely tripping you may have a controller going bad. Sometimes these controllers will trip on some alarm. At first it may be once per month then once per week then once per day then several times a day until it gets to where it will not run without tripping on some alarm. Good Luck.
You are mostlikely right about the thermostat. the ST 1300 had that problem and it is always the thermostat. this also effects the fuel mileage. i would go ahead and replace it and see if that fixes your problems. Brian
This solution probably costs more than you care to spend on the problem, but you can buy an external temp controller like this one:
You run the probe into the fridge and plug the fridge into the controller. Then the controller will only turn on the fridge if it gets warmer than the temperature you specify.
You might be able to find it cheaper on ebay, too. I'm using this on a kegerator and can keep my beer at a consistent temp.
I suspect the cooler can only actually regulate one of those temperatures and the other one just drags along behind. Perhaps the weather is now warmer and the cooler has to keep the motor on longer to keep cool. The unregulated bottom temperature ends up cooler as a consequence.
Either that or the opposite effect is doing it.
The answer might be to find a 61 degree place in your house to keep the reds.
Brand new installed avanti beverage cooler. In a basement undercounter so room temp. around 65 degrees. Only gets to around 45 degrees inside even though temp is set to 34 degrees. Most of the time it sits for days without being opened but still not cold. Any suggestions on how to fix this problem?
If you're handy with a soldering iron, it's possible to 'trick' the fridge into cooling down a few more degrees.
Long version: If you open the door to the fridge, on the right wall near the bottom is a small plastic grate. You should be able to pull this straight out from the side wall. There is a temperature sensor attached to the back of the grate. Unplug the sensor. (The fridge will then give you a very annoying error beep and display "EE" on the readout. Pushing the °F-°C button stopped the beeping.) This sensor will change resistance with temperature. (The lower the temperature, the higher the resistance) I was reading a resistance of about 3700 ohms at 43°F and 2460 ohms at 68°F. Throw in a rough assumption that the response is linear and it works out to almost 50ohms/degree. In order to 'trick' the fridge into cooling down more, you need to drop the resistance. I was aiming for about 6 degrees cooler. Assuming the resistance response was linear, 6 degrees cooler would give me about 4000 ohms from the sensor. By jumpering a 50000 ohm resistor (yes, 50K ohm) in parallel with the sensor, I should get about 6 degrees cooler. I did the soldering, plugged the sensor back in, and ended up about 8 degrees cooler. Two days so far, everything appears good and the beer is cold.
Short version: Put a 50K ohm resistor in parallel with the temperature sensor behind the grate on the inside right hand wall.
The temperature read out will be inaccurate forever after though. But then, I just want cold beer, my wife wants cold water, and the kids want to play with the cool blue light. I don't care what the number on the readout is.
Air conditioners rely on a difference in pressure between the "high side" and "low side" in order to perform. Of course, a/c's are designed to work in the heat. Having a cooler outdoor temp of 70 degrees probably is not sufficient to maintain adequate head pressure and will result in reduced cooling capacity. Also, since it was 68 in the morning in the room, it is possible that the indoor coil began to freeze up. Basically, you have a cold coil that you keep warm by moving air over it. If the air doesn't have enough specific heat (what your thermometer measures) it can allow the coil to get colder than 32 degrees and the condensate from all of your humidity will begin to freeze on the coil. My recommendation would be to check the a/c on a day that is 80+ degrees. If you have an avarage indoor temp of 70 degrees you should be able to look for the air coming out to be approximately 20-25 degrees colder than the air being sucked in.
you have to decide if the fridge is faulty or the thermostat
if you think it is the thermostat thet bridge out the switching contacts that make the compressor run
is the compressor running constantly
is the cooling fan working
is the condenser blocked with dirt
if 1 of these are at fault then the fridge is not going to drop the temerature