Rough idle problem with Santa Fe. I changed the egr valve no good. Very bad vibration it turns out my injectors where very bad and it didn't show up on many diagnostic systems plus airflow meter was b

SOURCE: replaced Idle Air Valve and EGR Valve. Car still runs rough.

There is an *awful lot* of stuff that can cause a car to have hesitation on acceleration.
Have a *good* mechanic read the codes from your vehicle and do the diagnosis.

You might also suspect a crappy or clogged EGR valve.

Like the other post said, you could try buying some MAF cleaner and carefully spray the element inside of the MAF sensor with it according to directions ... that's pretty easy to do. But this only works for the "hot wire" type of MAF sensor. The cold-wire or any other type this will not be possible for.

On the chance that the MAF is contributing to the problem ... here's something you might try.

MAF sensors are very very VERY sensative. Any, and I mean ANY crack or air infiltration in the duct or housing that goes from your MAF sensor to the plenum will cause your car to have problems.
(that is, the section of the air ducting that is *behind* the MAF sensor... in other words, the section of black plastic or rubber ducting that is between the MAF sensor housing and your engine.)

Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Clean the whole outside of the housing, ducting etc with hot water and something to cut the grease a bit like dishsoap , maybe a couple squirts of carb cleaner and rinse - dry it off with a towel (make it pretty)... this means the whole outside of the rubber or plastic tube or duct between the MAF sensor and the plenum (air intake) on the engine. Then, check that every band-clamp (hose clamp) or any other fastener on that ducting is properly tight ... tighten any that are not. Now get a big roll of duct tape or electrical tape and wrap tape around any and all areas of that run of ducting that has any possibility of being loose or cracked including at any joints ... wrap it as if you were trying to stop a leak from a hose ... round-and-round.

Importantly, if any of the ducting is the hard rubber type that has a sort of "accordion" appearance, duct tape that section where those ridges are really well ... this is a notorious place for hairline cracks.

Finally, hook the battery back up and restart the car ... make sure to drive it for a good 20 or so minutes so that the engine can make any accomodations to it's electronic controls.

If this does not help and you decide to go back to spray your MAF sensor off, you will obviously have to unseal/untape at the joints necessary to access the MAF sensor. (But FIRST make sure you have the hot-wire style MAF that this will work on, eh?)

You may in fact end up taking your tape job back off if it turns out not to be the problem ... but hey it's a shot.

SOURCE: PO171 OBD-II Trouble Code " System Lean To Bank 1

Check PCV valve and be sure it is not stuck open.  Check for vacuum leak at intake manifold.  

SOURCE: PEUGEOT 307 LX 1.4 HDI 2003, 2 NEW INJECTORS, SAFE MODE 50MPH

I had same problems with my 307 hdi, turned out that the additive which drips into fuel was empty and changed particle filter,problems solved

SOURCE: 1997 Mustang Cobra (4V, 4.6L), rough idling, won't stay running

silly question, however did you check the air box for nests. it is not uncommon for rodents to climb in and make themselves at home. i would also say to get a maf from ford. check ALL around the engine compartment and underneath for evidence of rodents and their leavings. youll be very suprised what you may find.cheers

SOURCE: removal of santa-fe gearbox

release the clutch arm of top of gaerbox and the gear box will move back no problem thats why you can only move it back to fly wheel teeth this is a push clutch thats how you release them