Question about GE Tritonr XL GSD6260JCC Dishwasher
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If the water doesn't drain from your dishwasher, check these:
Drain line/air gap A clog in the drain line or air gap (if there is one) is the usual reason that a dishwasher won't drain. Often the problem is at the point where the drain line attaches to the garbage disposer or household drain line. If you remove this line, you can clear any debris from the hose or hose connection. Be sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher again.
Pump Your dishwasher pump ejects the water. The pump is usually mounted directly to the motor, then attached to the bottom of the dishwasher. You can reach the pump from inside the dishwasher, but first you need to remove the lower rack, the spray arm, and the spray arm support.
Look for an impeller--a round plastic fan blade-type of device that spins around. This is the wash impeller, which forces the water through the spray arm. Beneath the wash impeller is the drain impeller, which is similar in size and shape to the wash impeller. The drain impeller pushes the water toward the drain port. These components make up the pump. If any of the pump components are defective, you need to replace them.
Drain valve and/or solenoid Many dishwashers use a drain valve with an electric solenoid. When electricity flows to the solenoid, the valve opens and diverts the water to the drain. Sometimes the solenoid, or the diverting lever, sticks and prevents the dishwasher from draining or filling properly. Try to free up the solenoid to lubricate the lever. Otherwise, you may have to replace the solenoid or pump assembly. With these systems, the motor always rotates in one direction. When it's energized, the drain valve diverts the water.
Other dishwashers simply reverse the direction of the motor to drain the dishwasher. These units don't have a drain valve. Instead, there's a drain hose connected directly to the pump housing.
Belt One brand of dishwasher uses a belt to drive the pump. If this belt is broken or has fallen off, replace it.
Motor If the motor isn't turning or working, the unit won't drain. First check to be sure you have power to the dishwasher. If not, see the section "It doesn't work at all." If the motor hums but doesn't turn, it may need to be replaced.
Some dishwashers are susceptible to getting stuck if you don't run them regularly. If you haven't run the dishwasher for more than a week, you may need to manually spin the motor to free it up. If the motor is defective, you need to replace it. Dishwasher motors can't be serviced.
Timer Part of what the timer does is control the motor and drain valve. If the timer doesn't work properly, the water may not drain and you need to replace the timer. This problem is uncommon.
Posted on Jul 29, 2008
If your dishwasher is cleaning poorly, check these:
Water-inlet valve Most cleaning problems are caused by the dishwasher not getting enough wash water, so the water-inlet valve is often to blame. This valve is usually at the bottom left or right of the dishwasher, behind the lower access panel. It's the device with the main water line from the house, a rubber tube to the dishwasher, and two wires attached to it.
When a water-inlet valve is defective, you may hear the sound that's usually referred to as "water hammer." If the water-inlet valve is defective, you need to completely replace it.
Dishwasher Water Inlet Valve Replacement
Be sure to read and understand any instructions that come with the new water inlet valve.
Step 1. Disconnect the dishwasher from its power source.
Note: Dishwashers are usually wired directly to the home’s electrical system. To disconnect the power, switch off the circuit breaker or remove the fuse for the electrical circuit the dishwasher is attached to. Try to turn the unit on after disconnecting the power to be sure you were successful.
CAUTION: If you’re not sure you’ve shut off the power properly, DO NOT CONTINUE. Call a qualified appliance repair technician to complete the repair.
Step 2. Turn off the water supply to the dishwasher. This is usually underneath the kitchen sink or in the basement or crawlspace near the location of the dishwasher. Pliers may be helpful here.
Note: If there are no shut-off valves, you must shut the water off at the main water supply valve for your home.
Step 3. Remove the lower panel(s) of the dishwasher. These are usually held by 2 to 4 screws at the upper and lower corners of the panel(s).
The inlet valve is usually near the front of the dishwasher. Attached to the valve you’ll see: 2 or 4 wires, the water supply line from the house and the water feed line that goes to the dishwasher.
Step 4. Remove the household water supply line from the valve. The line is usually secured with a brass compression nut. The water supply line is usually copper or braided stainless steel.
CAUTION: Water supply line may be hot.
Step 5. Remove the fitting from the valve the water supply line was attached to. This fitting may be very difficult to remove. It may help to put the valve into a vice in order to remove the fitting. If you cannot remove it, replace it. The fitting is not an appliance part but a plumbing part that is available at most hardware stores.
Step 6. Remove the screws holding the valve to the dishwasher frame.
Step 7. Label the wires to the valve so you’ll be sure to reattach them correctly.
Step 8. Remove the wires from the valve.
Step 9. Remove the clamp on the black rubber water discharge tube and pull the tube off of the valve.
Step 10. Reinstall the old fitting (or a replacement fitting if necessary) onto the new valve the water supply line was attached to. Use Teflon tape or pipe joint compound as a thread sealant. Make this fitting tight to prevent leaks. Make sure that the fitting points in the same direction as the old one so that the water supply line will meet up with it properly.
Step 11. Install the new valve in the reverse order of the removal instructions.
Note: The water supply line is under high pressure. Be sure to tighten the fittings properly.
Step 12. Turn on the water to the machine, and check for and correct any leaks.
Step 13. Reinstall the access panel(s). Restore the power to the dishwasher and test.
Note: You may have to let the dishwasher run a few minutes before it reaches the next water fill cycle.
Internal filters Every dishwasher has some type of filter to keep large food particles and foreign objects away from the pump assembly:
Drain valve Some dishwashers have a valve (or gate) that should open only during draining. If debris lodges in the valve, it can't close properly, so water drains out during the wash cycle. Most dishwashers drain into the garbage disposer. If yours does that, listen for water flowing into the disposer during the wash cycle. If you can hear it then, the drain valve may be clogged.
Spray arms There's a spray arm at the bottom of your dishwasher--it may have a tall spray tube mounted to the center of it. There may also be a spray arm located directly beneath the upper rack of dishes and/or above the upper rack.
If debris is blocking the holes in the spray arms where the water comes out, it could cause cleaning problems. Regularly inspect each of the spray arms and clean out the holes as necessary.
Water temperature To get the best cleaning results, the water entering your dishwasher needs to be hot enough. Try running the hot water in your kitchen sink for about 30 seconds before starting the dishwasher, to pre-heat it. Also, if your dishwasher lets you select a higher wash or rinse temperature, try that to see if it helps.
To check the temperature of the hot water that comes from your kitchen faucet use a waterproof thermometer. If the water isn't 120 degrees Fahrenheit, your dishwasher may have trouble getting your dishes clean. You could increase the temperature of the hot water to the whole house--and therefore the dishwasher--by adjusting the hot water heater thermostat.
Warning! To lessen the risk of scalding, don't set the hot water heater temperature higher than 120 degrees Fahrenheit.
Detergent cup Dishwashers don't perform their best if detergent is introduced only at the beginning of a cycle, so add detergent to both parts of the cup.
Posted on Nov 19, 2008
HI, usually, if the dishwasher dose not drain properly, it will be the fault of a defective or, malfunctioning pump. i will list several problem areas to check. Inspect each area properly and, replace any component that is faulty or fouled.
1. Air gap / Drain hoses
If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.
If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.
Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.
2. Broken belt
Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.
Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt, because it is probably too stretched out.
Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller, takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.
4. Drain solenoid
Some models (for example most GE dishwashers) use a drain solenoid to drain water out. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, preventing the water from draining out. Try to free up the solenoid. If unsuccessful, you might have to replace the pump assembly.
If the motor is stuck, it is sometimes possible to free it up by manually spinning the motor.
Replace the motor if defective.
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).
Posted on Jun 17, 2009
I've had this problem too, and fixed it by cleaning the lower drain basket. But it could also be your pump or drain hose is clogged. To clean the drain basket, I removed the lower rack and spray arm. To remove the spray arm, turn it counter clockwise while gently lifting it up. There's a lock ring that will also need to be removed. (Remember how these parts come off and in what order.) There is a vertical tube that is attached to the upper and lower spray arms that is secured by a hex-screw that you will need to loosen and disengage from the lower spray arm. After this, you can remove the small protection grid then reach in and clean out the gunk from the basket. I ran a rinse cycle to see if it did the trick and sure enough, it now drains. By the way, I am NOT a professional.
Posted on Dec 11, 2009
I had a similar problem with a GE GSD5811 model. The hoses were clear, and the auxiliary pump worked fine. It turns out that it was the "piston" assembly that had basically disintegrated over time. This part diverts water to the pump during the drain cycle.
To check it, remove the mesh filter at the rear of the inside of the machine, by carefully unclipping the heater element from the back of the machine and removing the 4 hex-head screws securing the filter panel.) Unscrew the piston assembly from the tub, and pull it out. If the sealing plunger has deteriorated or is jammed, replace it. The part number for the "piston and nut assembly" for my machine (and probably numerous others) is WD24X10018. It should cost anywhere between $10 and 16, depending on where you shop.
Another possibility is a bad drain solenoid. (This is what actually triggers the piston assembly during the drain cycles.)
Posted on Apr 08, 2010
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