The fridge is displaying 59-Ce & there are no lights inside. Water & ice do not work

Pull the plug out, count to 20 and plug it back in as a start. Lots of help here

Samsung refrigerator temperature display is blinking

Samsung US https://www.samsung.com > support > TSG01002092

A blinking temperature display is trying to get your attention, typically because the temperature is too high and things need to cool down.

Samsung Refrigerator Temperature Display Is Blinking

Samsung US http://support-cacyber.samsung.com > popup > iframe
The temperature display or temperature bar on your fridge will blink if the temperature inside the fridge is above 59 degrees Fahrenheit. It will automatically ...

Missing: RT18M ‎' Show results with: RT18M

Why Your Samsung Refrigerator Display is Blinking

appliancegeeked.com https://www.appliancegeeked.com > how-to-fix-samsu...
Dec 21, 2022 - A blinking temperature display on your Samsung fridge suggests a temperature error. The most common cause for this is warm air trapped inside ...

We just bought Samsung Refrigerator RT18M"/RT21M and ...

JustAnswer https://www.justanswer.com > Appliance Repair
Sep 23, 2022 - The freezer display lights are blinking. There's recently a · The freezer display lights are blinking. There's recently a thin layer of ice on ...

1 answer · Top answer: Hello, my name is*****'m here to assist you today, can you provide a model number..

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The dimming light indicates a power loss in the system.

Bosch is a high end manufacturer of appliances. Occasionally things can go wrong, such as fluctuations in temperature. Bosch's policy is to charge for calls to customer service advice, even when the appliance is still under warranty, so it's worth trying these troubleshooting steps before making the call. Bosch refrigerators also have an appliance self-test which you can run.
Instructions

1. • 1 Check that the plug is inserted into the household power outlet at the wall. If there's no text displayed on the display panel, it is because there is no power to the fridge.
     
   • 2 Make sure that the door hasn't been left open if the warning signal sounds. The warning signal means the temperature is rising, and frozen food can be at risk. Visually inspect that the ventilation openings aren't covered by household objects, debris or dirt. Press the "Alarm Off" button to switch off the alarm.
     

3 Ensure that the temperature controls are set correctly if the fridge or freezer compartments get too cold.

4 Check that the water supply is on if the ice-maker isn't producing ice. Test the water supply by using the water dispenser on the door. If "IWD Off" is displayed on the panel, the ice and water are supplies are off and need to be turned on again.

5 Press the "Condensation Heating" switch near the ice dispenser and water outlet on the door if condensation forms on the outside of the refrigerator. If the environment around the refrigerator is too humid, the appliance can compensate for that.

6 Run the self-test program to identify major faults. Switch the refrigerator off and wait five minutes. Switch the refrigerator on again. Press the "Select" and "Options" buttons at the same time for five seconds. The self-test will commence. Keep an eye on the display. "E" indicates a fault which needs reporting to customer service. The number in the US is 1-800-944-2904.

http://www.ehow.com/how_5769746_troubleshoot-bosch-refrigerators.html

Defective compressor capsule?

You may want to change the water bill one of ice maker. It is under the kick That panel on
Bottem

My fridge was having the same problem with CE being displayed, light and touch selector not working. With the assistance of one of my sons, we tilted the fridge back slightly and removed the control circuit board. Two of the three 470 u F capacitors were toast. My son drilled out the plastic brads holding the circuit board in the pan, then removed all three of the 470 u F capacitors. He soldered 3 new capacitors in place (0.59 cents each) and used 4 small screws/nuts to secure the board in place. After looking at the capacitors, he said a power surge had caused the damage. We went right out and bought a surge protector for the fridge. My fridge works perfectly now. While protecting tvs and computer from surges, I had never even thought of using a surge protector for the more costly fridge! Hope this helps someone else avoid an shamefully expensive parts replacement.

Hi -
I haven't solved my problem, yet, but i have determined that it's beyond my scope and will require a pro's visit to my house.

thanks for the line.
b

INSIDE THE DISPENSER ASSEMBLY IS A SEPARATE ELECTRONIC BOARD THAT CONTROLS THE DISPENSER.
OCCASIONALLY, THE DOOR SOLENOID OR THE CUBE ICE SOLENOID WILL SHORT OUT CAUSING A BURNOUT OF THE DISPENSER CONTROL BOARD. CHECK FOR A BURNT SMELL COMING FROM THE DISPENSER HOUSING. IF YOU SMELL IT, THE BOARD AND/OR SOLENOID NEED TO BE REPLACED.

I just had the exact same problem with my Samsung RS2534WW Fridge from Best Buy. I think the freezer seal was not totally shut and something inside was pushing against the door, so it couldn't close tightly, but was not open enough to trigger the chime alarm. In the morning, the freezer temperature display was blinking. Later on it settled around 59 degrees. Here's what seemed to work for my particular situation: First I pushed the ice selector button, from cube, to crushed, to No Ice. Then I unplugged the fridge for about 10 to 15 minutes. Next, I plugged it back in and held down the Power Freeze and Power Cool buttons simultaneously until the chime sound is heard. I read this should reset it, but my display turned completely off. So, I held in the Power Freeze and Power Cool buttons again and as soon as the display lit up, I let go. The freezer temperature no longer blinked and settled at 56 degrees. Next, I opened the lower service panel in the back. First, I verified the (evaporator) fan in the middle was running (it was). It seems to pull air in on the freezer side and blow it over the compressor and out the fridge side. The air intake side had a lot of dust, especially on the condenser coils, so I vacuumed it out. Next, I opened the freezer door and noticed a build-up of ice around the freezer air ducts in the back (both exhaust and intake vents). I then used my hair dryer to thaw out the ice and wiped up the water. Next, I closed the freezer door and the temperature read 59 degrees. It stayed on that temperature for 8 hours and then the temperature started to drop quickly and it returned to normal. At that point I turned the ice maker back on and it has been working fine ever since. Apparently, the unit has an 8-hour cool and defrost cycle. I read someone else turned off (unplugged) their fridge overnight with the doors open to let it defrost. When they plugged it back in the next morning, all was working fine. If those tips don't work, you may have a problem with either your cooling system or defrost system, or it could be something as simple as a blown thermal fuse. Hope that helps!