2 Hot plates have stopped working wont switch on

sounds like a bad connection have the teck look for an open ground.

bad ground connection?

unplug the unit and gain access to the wiring connection for all 4 elements(plates). remove the wiring from the element that will not shut off. while making sure none of the unconnected wires do not touch any metal or another wire, and plug in power cord. if the 3 non-working elements get hot then replace the none working control knob

BEWARE : STOP USING IT RIGHT NOW AND CONTACT AUTHORIZED SERVICE CENTER AND DO NOT TRY ANYTHING WITH THIS MACHINE YOURSELF. IF YOU CONTINUE USING IT, IT MAYBE HAZARDOUS AS IT'S AN ELECTRIC EQUIPMENT.

I assume that you have removed the seat and checked that all the harness wires are plugged in correctly. There are two brake light switches one on the handle bars and one on the foot pedal. It is extremely rare that they both stop working at the same time. Unless one switch has been broken for a while and you did not notice the brake light was not working until the second switch went out. It sounds like you have a common problem any older light bulb socket can have. Remove the tail light lens and take out the bulb. Look carefully at the contact plate. If it has gotten too hot one of the contacts may have sunken into the plate and no longer touches the contact on the bulb. This happens a lot. You can take a socket plate out of any old dual filament light socket by pushing on one side,cocking it at an angle, and pulling it out with the wires attached. Install the good plate in your socket by feeding the wires through the spring and out the wire holes. Cut and solder the your old wires onto the wires on the new socket plate minding which wire is the running light and which wire is the stop light. If you make a make a mistake it is not hard to remedy , either switch the wires (resolder) or plug them into the wrong colors. The dim filament is the tail light and the bright filament is the stop light.

Well a lot of the problems is due to either the hot water turn off switch 1/2 way along the block before it goes into the fire wall and should work on vacuum,and opens up when switched to Hot but quite often not being used to often the pipe sucks in and air wont pass by or the switch fills with condensation and wont work ,so take the pipe off to the switch {pipe from engine to heater will be warm only when the engine is hot and stops at switch ,other side is cold that is the problem so}
clamp both sides of heater pipe with small clamps to stop water flow and remove ,clean a.b.a.poss and try again if not working ,get new switch.
If its ok then change the thermostat to a higher opener one and also check the top and bottom hoses as they can get soft and cause a **** in efect.

is it a seperate fuse ??
if its not the fuse check that the wires are connected ok!
Is there power at the switch ??

With light switch on, test the wires leading up to the mentioned lights with a test light(cost about 5 or 6 bucks at wal-mart) that way u can eliminate any corrosion questions and get to the source quicker, if test light indicates that the wire is hot, than check connection areas for any wear and tear and possible carbon corrosion. Check lightbulbs, my license plate light stopped working and wire was hot, but wouldnt turn on due to the housing base, got too dryrotted and wouldnt function propery, had to rig it up, but works now.

Check the non working plate element for continuity - if open replace it. Otherwise the switch is bogus.