Question about Whirlpool MH6140XK Microwave Oven
My 3 year old unit stopped working - the repairman said teh magnetron was bad and the motor that rotates the tray was bad too (strange coincidence?)
Anyway, Whirlpool will give me teh Magnetron free and 50% off a motor so its only $35 - but the labor (including the $69 service call I allready paid for) will be close to $300! Well, a brand new unit at Lowe's is less than that.
So, I was thinking if they would send me the parts, is this something I could do myself? Or, at least find someone who can do it for less than $300? I will never buy whirlpool again, BTW!
If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, linked here on Fixya: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk
You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts (if needed) by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383
Also, Whirlpool models have a handy mini-manual inside behind the control panel keypad that is very useful.
If Whirlpool will actually send you the magnetron and motor (not to the servicer on your behalf) then you're really in luck. I'd be very surprised.
Posted on Nov 17, 2007
Had EXACT same symptoms on this model: Here is my solution-
Take off the front vent (screws on top).
Take off the control panel (1 srew at top, then lift up and out). There are 3 switches that are activated by the door latches. The top switch has heavier wires going to it.(BTW There is a wiring diagram and troubleshooting packet in the bottom of the control panel) The top switch was faulty, which allowed everything to operate except the turntable and magnetron, and NO, they wouldn't coincidentally fail at the same exact time. YOU HAVE A BAD SWITCH. (Jerseyhelp, SOUNDS LIKE TECH EITHER MISSED THE BAD SWITCH OR IS TRYING TO RIP YOU OFF) You can order one at http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=266300 for about $10 (I followed link from THIS site, this is NOT my site)
You can also obtain this type of switch locally. Push back on the plastic tab holding the switch and it will swing up and out. Use needle nose pliers to pull on the connectors to remove the wires, NOT the wires themselves. I had a similar switch on hand that was rated at lower AMPS, so I put it in the bottom switch position (runs less current on that part of circuit) and moved the bottom switch to the top position. The middle switch is wired opposite the other 2, you cannot use it in the top or bottom position! stay out of the top cover and you will be relatively safe
as long as you keep the unit unplugged while working on it.
Hope this saves you a service call or purchase of a new unit. BTW my unit ran 7 years before failing. The switch had just gotten hot and eventually wore out, wouldn't even click when depressed. To ensure you get good contact on the replacement switch, crimp the connectors a bit with your pliers before installing on the switch. A loose connector will cause overheating (of the wire harness, not your popcorn) and poor operation
Posted on Apr 21, 2008
THE_JD is exactly right!
My microwave went out, no turntable and no magnetron operation.
I had already torn the microwave apart, looking for blown fuses, AND checking the switches, etc. I was just about to call a repairman to get an estimate on a new magnetron when I found this article.
After reading this I re-checked the switch with my Ohm-meter and there lay the problem.
I opened the switch and filed down the connectors and bent them over a little, and voila! Problem solved. Cost=$0. That switch wears out because it has higer voltage electricity going through the connectors and the arcing wears the connectors down.
Posted on Oct 17, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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