526 brother lock wont stitch

Two things make sure your threading it in the right order. your upper looper first then your lower looper then your needles. If your doing that then change your needles and if your using cheap thread on an overlock it just wont sew right. You need to use a good quality thread on overlocks. Hope that helps

A serger (overlocker) is not a sewing machine. If you look at the inside seams of a purchased t-shirt, you will usually find a serge stitch that was created using a serger (overlocker). A serger/overlocker usually uses 3 or 4 threads to create that stitch. It also trims the fabric at the same time it finishes the fabric edge. The serge stitch is a chain stitch that, if you pull a particular thread, the entire stitch will come undone.

Your sewing machine is not able to create that same stitch. Your sewing machine may have what is called an "overlock" stitch, but it will use only 2 threads (the top and bobbin) to create that stitch. You would have to consult your owner's manual to see if it can make an overlock stitch.


Different Serger Stitches and How to Use Them

The BERNINA Serger Overlocker line BERNINA

The 335 has a two thread chain stitch (stitch type 401), and the overlock side (right needle side), is a three thread plain overlock. If you are describing the plain overlock as the problem, I would first suggest the following in re-threading:

1. Thread the upper looper
2. Thread the lower looper
3. Thread the needle last (important)

If the needle threaded, you cannot re-thread the lower looper without breaking the thread.
In order to thread the lower looper, the lower looper must pass by the needle thus picking up the needle thread. So, instead of threading the lower looper thread underneath the needle thread, the looper would be threaded on top and cannot sew without breaking the thread.
Make sure that the threads are bedded between the tension disks. Check this by stretching the thread fore and aft of the tension disks as well as visually noting that the threads are not accidentally threaded behind the disks. You can also loosen the tension disks when threading so as to allow the threads to bed deeply between the disks.
Please reply with your observations.

Hi there Kathryn... when you load/thread the top cotton through the machine.... and then through the eye of the needle.... do you also load the bobbin case... or is it already in there and loaded as per instructions... ? What I normally do... is load up the bottom and top threads first.. making sure to put the top thread through the needle and make the thread end go through and behind the 'foot'... when placing on fabric to try... I make sure to load the fabric... with the top thread's tail going out through the presser foot and behind your foot.. sometimes.. if its the thread (some machines don't like certain threads)... I will manually (wind the right hand wheel) so that the machine does a few stitches.. before I use my foot pedal!.. I have both a serger/overlocker... and a Brother 8500 (sewing/embroidery machine).. I have been sewing for over years now...
You will need to change your needle... when you've used it for more than 6-7 hours continuously.. OR you notice that the stitches are not as they should be... in your fabric...

One needle does sit slightly higher than the other. The stitches not catching sounds like a tension or threading problem.

I don't think so, the D in your model name would denote that it has Differential feeding but is probably a 3/4 Marrowing stitch only. So this means it would do 3 thread overlock, 4 thread overlock and you can probably set it up for rolled hemming too.

Coverstitch is fairly new to home sergers and is available on some machines along with the 3 and 4 thread stitches, but changing between the regular overlock and a coverstitch takes a few minutes. The model number will usually have a "C" in the name. Also, during coverstitch the blades are disenaged and don't trim your fabric so you still need often to go back with blunt scissors and trim the raw edge.

And sewing coverstitch can be finicky, with skipped stitches a problem. Use high quality thread and XL (extra long) or SUX (stretch extra long) needles to avoid this.

However some manufacturers are now making dedicated coverstitch machines; if you are assembling a garment with your regular serger, you can then just move over to the coverstitch machine to sew the hems and necklines and not spend 20 mins changing over your machine's functions. Much more productive.

You may wish to check out the Brother 2340CV, this is their dedicated domestic coverstitch machine. Link to product info is http://www.brother-usa.com/homesewing/ModelDetail.aspx?ProductID=2340CV

In the meantime, best solution is a twin needle to stitch the hem from the right side of the garment on your regular sewing machine, looks much the same, and you can get twin needles with a 4mm or 2.2 mm gap and in stretch and sharp tips for less than $10 each. Just iron up the hem about 1.5cm deep, and thread up your sewing machine with the twin needle and two spools of same colour on top (I just wind an extra bobbin and use this plus the original thread spool rather than buy two spools).

Just sew really slow as the twin needle builds up a lot of heat and will break if you push it along. I use this finish on all my knit garments and it works just fine. Sometimes I'll iron in a 2cm strip of fusible web inside the hem to give it some firmness in a neckline, then twin needle stitch at about 1.7 from the folded edge.

Hope this answers your question.

You haven't specified your overlocker make and model but some parts of the set up will be the same; you still need to consult your machine manual to find out the changes needed to the foot. Bernettes have a little switch near the blade that you flick to change how the stitch forms so it rolls.

You need a 3 thread overlock with the right hand needle (I'm assuming you have a 4 thread lock) turn the stitch length down to 0.5 so it is very closed up. And there is usually a little thread finger on the foot that needs to be changed or a switch you flick to move it back.

Then lower the tension down on the upper looper so this thread goes over the edge to the underside and tighten up the lower looper dial so this thread lies against the needle stitch.

Move the blade to the right so the fabric is cut wider than the seam that the threads are forming so the cut edge rolls underneath and is encased in the threads.

It is best to use wooly overlock thread on at least the top looper so this "fills" in the rolled edge.

If you visit you-tube and search using "Rolled Hem" or Nancy Zieman you should find some helpful videos too.

First, change the needles making sure to use the el705 needle system. Second, make sure the subsidiary looper is engaged properly (plugging up the upper looper hole). Also make sure the needles are all the way up in the machine. This should do it or it may need to be adjusted but the Evolve is a very, very reliable machine. Hope this helps...

hi there,

check & correct the FF:

• Correct thread tension.
• Replace needle.
• Replace needle with correct size.
• Use proper thread or needle.
• Check threading order.
• Increase pressure on presser foot.
• Reset needle.

When the thread breaks too often, try these, that goes for all sewing machines
1. Replace the needles,
2. Loosen slightly the tension of the needle threads.
3. The top threads are to thin,
4.The sewing (rotary) hook or looper, has burs,
5. Wrong threading