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The horn assembly mounts behind the drivers headlamp. There are two horns made on a single bracket, a high and low horn, on most cars they are an A note and an F note. If you played these 2 notes together on a musical instrument you would hear that these 2 notes do not blend together, so together they make an annoying loud sound, perfect for an emergency horn. Some instructions state that you have to remove the bumper cover, others say that you can remove the drivers wheel plastic inner fender plastic shield. The bracket bolts to the core support. Hope that helps. You can find pictures of the horn assembly online. PS, I tried to upload a picture but it will not load. Hope that helps.
Horns are typically difficult, though modern horns with a purpose moulded terminal plug and socket tends to last longer without trouble and when trouble does arrive is easier to disconnect and replace, except non-OE aftermarket horns nearly always require wiring modifications.
The older horns with either a single or double spade type terminal often need the receptacles replacing too due to the difficulty of cleaning the originals.
A horn has a surprising appetite for current and so the connection(s) must be very good.
Twin horns are a combination of high note and low note tuned to resonate and produce an increased volume. It isn't unusual to fit incorrect horns though they are often marked H or L.
The horns themselves, as well as the electrical relays, can often be replaced with a standard ones from one of the auto parts stores. If parts are not available for the horn switch, An different switch, again from the parts store, can be installed or one obtained for a salvage yard.
Ok there should be a single wire coming out of the steering column.This wire comes from the horn bottom behind the steering wheelThe wire might be shorted because of it's age. If that is the case a wire can be run outside of the steering column with a after market horn bottom. The signal wire will go to a horn relay. the relay will have to have a fused power source and is usually mounted on the core support or fender well. The relay will also have a terminal for the wire going to the horn or horns which are usually mounted on the core support on each side of the radiator. I hope this answers your question Jim
okay 1. key on engine off, parking brake on. 2. turn park lights on and off 4 times you will hear a horn chrip you are in program mode.start at L/F tire release air may take 10 seconds continue to release air until horn chrip, after chrip go to R/F tire do the same until horn chrip then R/R let air out til the chrip then L/R do the same after the L/R chrip turn key off, go and set all 4 tire preasures and your done, note you have only 5 min. to complete this so have valve caps off and some thing to push on the stem to let the air out.hope this helps,
A fuse always blows for a reason. The reason your fuse must have blown was because of a short to ground in the horn switch. That means the power side of the horn switch is currently touching ground or metal or that the switch is bad on the inside. The more remote possiblity is that you have a short somewhere in the wiring harness. It is always typical for a component to go bad before a harness.
Here are some notes directly from chrysler, let me know if you need any clarification:
Testing and InspectionNotesWARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIR-BAGS, REFER TO AIRBAGS AND SEAT BELTS/AIRBAGS BEFORE ATTEMPTING STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.
Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. Remove the lower steering column cover/knee blocker. Check for continuity between the metal steering column jacket and a good ground. There should be continuity If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, refer to Steering and Suspension/Steering Column and check for proper installation of the steering column mounting nuts.
Remove the driver's airbag module. Unplug the horn switch wire connector. Remove the horn relay from the Power Distribution Center (PDC) . Check for continuity between the steering column half of the horn switch feed wire connector and a good ground. There should be no continuity If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, repair the short circuit as required.
Check for continuity between the steering column half of the horn switch feed wire connector and the horn relay control circuit cavity for the horn relay in the PDC. There should be continuity If OK, go to Step 4. If not OK, repair the open circuit as required.
Check for continuity between the horn switch feed wire and the horn switch ground wire on the airbag module. There should be no continuity If OK, go to Step 5. If not OK, replace the faulty horn switch.
Depress the center of the airbag module cover and check for continuity between the horn switch feed wire and the horn switch ground wire on the airbag module. There should be continuity If not OK, replace the faulty horn switch.
no/ you have 2 horns your right about that but its one wire connector for each horn usually one horn on the right and the other on the left/ the horns should be slide in connector and if he cut them for one doesnt seem right/ I bet that was the problem he tried using the same wire from the original horns when he kind of grounded the horn so it would not work / but there is only one wire per horn/ Please rate my response/ Thank you very much
You need to wire a relay to the horn wire first and then run the wire from the relay to the horn. You need to get a single pole relay. go the auto parts store and tell them what you are doing and they will sell you a basic horn relay. The stock horn had a relay attached to it.
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