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gary higgins Posted on Mar 05, 2015
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How to wire, 2 pole 20 amp switch to 2 outside lights

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gbob59

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  • Master 3,063 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 05, 2015
gbob59
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Joined: Feb 17, 2008
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Hire an electrician. Outside lights on house?? 20amp sounds like a breaker, not just a switch, otherwise why do you need a 20 amp switch for 2 outside lights? If you insist on doing it yourself be sure breaker you are working with is off. You need to know what you are doing. The question you ask says to me you don't know what you're doing. Electricity can Kill.

  • gary higgins Mar 05, 2015

    It's a 2 pole 20 amp p &s switch, hot wires go to 2 bottom terminals ,commons go to the 2 terminals on the top, neutrals are wire nut together. Electrons are flowing , the outside lights are working ..thanks

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 63 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 05, 2009

SOURCE: Wiring to a 3 single pole combination switch

run 14-2 wire to power switches, then run one 14-3 wire and one 14-2 up to fixture..you will have an extra neutral but its okay... just tie all nuetrals together....this gives you the needed 3 hot wires!

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on May 05, 2009

SOURCE: Leviton Single Pole Switch with Pilot Light Model 277W Box

Depends on whether you want the pilot to glow when the circuit is live (the main light is on) or to glow when the circuit is off. (The switch can be used either way, and I have used this switch in both configurations at different places.)

The wiring diagram is on the inside of the box.

In indicates that if you want the pilot light to glow when the circuit is off, then you only need two wires (the live and the return, usually colored black and white, respectively). However, you also need a ground. The instructions say that you need the ground for safety (and probably legal code) reasons, but I suspect that, without the ground, the pilot light won't work in this configuration.

However, if you want the pilot light to glow when the circuit is on, you probably need a three wire configuration (plus the ground).

Hope this helps.


Anonymous

  • 76 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 27, 2009

SOURCE: need to know wiring diagram for cooper single pole lighted switch

well lets see on one side you should have two brass screws that would be to interupt your lead to the fixture then you either have a brass and silver screws on the other side or you have black and white wires the black or brass is always hot the silver or white is neutral does that answer your question if not hit me back with a description of what your switch looks like

A Miller

  • 8404 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 18, 2009

SOURCE: I have a live 2-wire line that used to be

As I understand it you have a live circuit going to a light fixture that had a switch built into it. You have removed the fixture and now you want to run this wire to another location and install a switch in the circuit.

You will be extinding these two wires (white and black + ground) to the new location. No problem ... Somewhere between where you start and where you finish, you will break the black wire and install a single pole switch. All connecctions must happen inside a electrical box.

So, install the new wire in the box where you will start your extension. Run to the new switch box. You dont even have to cut the white wire. You will wrap the green or ground around the ground screw on the switch, Cut the black wire . put one end under one side screw, put the other end under the other side screw. From this box run your wire to the next box where you will install your fixture.

If you are using metal boxes, they must be grounded to the circuit. You can use pig tails for this, Best deal is to use plastic boxes that dont require grounding.

I hope this answers your question

Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 15, 2011

SOURCE: I have a Leviton single

easy one first: ground wire to green screw. We have to assume the two black wires are the hot(coming from power source) and switch leg(going to light). Switch will have two brass colored screws. Looking at the switch with the off/on markings right side up. Put hot wire on upper screw and switch leg on other brass screw, With nothing hooked up, the hot wire will be the only wire with voltage on it. You can buy a non-contact voltage tester at Lowes or any place that sells electrical supplies. Now we must assume the two white wires are neutrals(one coming from power source and one going to light. The pilot light part of the switch will either have a silver colored screw or a white pigtail on it. all whites hook together. The pilot light is wired internally to the switch leg. Your switch should work properly now.

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I am trying to install a double pole pass and seymour toggle switch to electric outdoors for a pool pump and pool timer. this switch appears to match the old one so I tried to wire it exactly the same. All...

Hi Jeremy,

You need a double pole or S2 switch rated at least for 240V / 20A.

It sounds like you're describingt a four way switch or S4. A quick check of the handle (if the traditional toggle type) can help you identify the switch; it should have "ON" and "OFF" indicated on it if it is an S2 and nothing at all if an S4. S4 switches almost always have four brass or gold colored screws while S2 switches nearly never have four brass or gold colored screws (not counting the green ground screw - of course).

One or more S4 switches are used between three way or S3 switches when 3, 4, 10, 20 or more switches are needed to control lights or other devices (typical usage to turn lights on and off at each floor to a stairway in multi-level buildings. These are typically 120 volt residential circuits in the U.S..

S2 switches are required when controlling two hot wire circuits that need both hot wires to be opened when shut off. These are typically 240 volt residential circuits in the U.S..

I hope this helps & good luck!
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I have the unit wired and it does not wotk.I have black to black,red to red green to ground and white to white,any thoughts? Thank you

Electrician test wiring before connecting anything.
First of all, you don't mention what type of switch was replaced.

1) Leviton 6230 countdown timer is made to replace single-pole light switch only.
Single pole is where 1 switch controls the Load (light fan motor)

Your wiring sounds like 3-way switch.
3-way is where 2 switches control same Load.
For example a hallway usually has 3-way switches.

To confirm. If old switch has 1 dark screw, 2 brass screws, and 1 green screw, then that is 3-way switch. Use Leviton LTB15, LTB30, LTB60, LTB02, LTB12 countdown timer for 3-way.
Smarthome sells product and shows .pdf manual
http://www.smarthome.com/4255/Leviton-LTB60-1LZ-4-Button-10-20-30-60-Minute-Countdown-Timer-Switch/p.aspx


2) If old switch has 2 brass screws and 1 green screw then that is single-pole switch.

3) If you are replacing single-pole switch, here are testing & wiring instructions for Leviton timer.
Remove device and separate wires for testing.
Use ordinary two wire tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power.
Do not untwist wires that were twisted together before you started.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. This wire will connect to timer black wire.
Now you know Hot wire.
Test Hot wire to each of the other wires, excluding bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on neutral. Timer white wire connects to Neutral wire.
If box does not contain Neutral wire, then timer white wire connects to bare ground.

Timer green wire connects to bare ground wire.
Timer red wire connects to wire going to Load.
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Can I used the T103M dpst spst timer for christmas lights? I would be coming off 2 20amps breakers in a single slot. I relly don't understand what a dpst and spst are (what they do) I am trying to hook up...

T103M is 120Volt timer that can handle all the Christmas lights.
Minimum on-off time 1 hour.
Rotate dial until current time lines up with silver pointer.
Set on-off trippers on dial.
Let's go step by step.

1) T103 has terminals A 1 2 3 4 >> terminals are also called poles
DPST (double pole single throw) and SPST (single pole single throw) are two different ways to wire this particular timer.
T103 timer can be wired numerous ways... but your project is not complicated.
DPST means timer turns off two terminals/poles (double pole) with each click/throw of timer switch (single throw)
SPST means timer turns off one terminal/pole (single pole) with each click/throw of timer switch (single throw)

2) T103 timer is ST single throw, all the lights come on at same time. So this timer is 1 channel.
1 channel timers are either ON or OFF and everything turns on-off at same time.
You cannot stagger on-off times with 1 channel timer.
If you want upstairs and downstairs lights to come ON at different times, you need two timers .. or a 2-channel timer (which is different ballgame).

3) T103 timer has 120Volt clock motor that is connected to terminals A and 1.
Look at timer and you can see small white wires connected to A and 1 terminals that power 125V clock motor.
When wiring this timer, your wires from 20 amp breaker box connect to terminals A and 1.
Black hot wire from breaker must connect to terminal 1
White neutral wire from neutral busbar must connect to terminal A
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-T104-Intermatic-timer.html#T103
http://waterheatertimer.org/B220C.html

4) Terminal 1 must be hot so when timer switch clicks ON, it sends power to terminal 2.
Your load wires connect to terminals A and 2
I made simple drawing of SPST option showing how to wire T103 to 3 receptacles.
Fixya downgrades image so it's hard to see.
Hot wire to terminal 1
Load wire to terminal 2
Neutrals on terminal A
To see image larger:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/110-600-21Kb.jpg

geno_3245_171.jpg
If you want to wire timer for DPST, which is necessary for loads exceeding 2 horsepower (1500 Watts) on each terminal
Notice black jumper wire from terminal 1 to terminal 3
Notice all white neutral wires to terminal A
To see image larger:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/110-600-17Kb.jpg
geno_3245_172.jpg
I made third image for guy who was wiring high amperage blowers, that show wiring for two T103 timers. Having two timers would let upstairs and downstairs lights come on at different times.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/110-with-2-timers.jpg
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I need a replacement toggle switch for a chipper/shredder.The 1/12 hp motor experiences frequent slow downs, depending on what is being chopped. Sometimes it even stops momentarily, I presume causing...

My friend did a pretty good search for similar toggle

1) He found a 'wall-type' 30Amp DPDT at Global
2) He said he couldn't find others ... but the internet changes.
3) This switch could be mounted in a box that screws to side of chipper. Switch will work fine with 125V.
4) Radio shack and the automotive stores carry 5 amp versions of the DPDT, but they burn up like you said

5) Here is wiring schematic for switch schematic
6) Note: Wiring is different than automotive-type DPDT toggles where power connects to center pole and loads connect to outside poles
-Power on global DPDT connects to poles L1 and L2
-L1 switches to A1 & B1 ... while L2 switches to A2 & B2.
-Poles L1=>A1 and L2=>A2 turn on-and-off at same time

7) In a reverse of the schematic shown above, my friend is using the global switch on 30Amp water heater to switch voltages between 120 and 240 so we know switch can handle the amperage. schematic
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When Working with Household Electricity you want to always keep in mind that the BLACK wire ALWAYS carries DEATH. What I mean by this is that working with a Single Phase Circuit (one that uses 120VAC) the only wire that should be carrying a voltage is the BLACK one, the other 2 wires (typically the White Neutral and Green Ground) should both be electrically connected to Earth Ground (usually by being attached to your water pipe.)

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