Can i use a ruler to measure gap on spark plug

spark plugs must be removed from the engine to ck or set the gap
you will need the correct size spark plug socket wrench (spark plug sockets are special as they have padding inside them to grip the plug after you unscrew them )

locate spark plugs on engine I believe your car has 4 of them

locate soft protection boot at end of wire and twist it 1/4 way around then back now grasp protection boot (NOT WIRE) and twist and pull away from spark plug till it seperates

wipe plug well out with clean rag (prevents dirt from falling into open hole)

put plug socket over over plug and remove CCW

locate emmisions sticker just infront of cooling fan and ck for plug gap

using plug gap tool slide wire of tool between the hammer and anvil on botton of plug (flat thing and curved thing )

if wire from tool slides thru with ease and even wiggles a bit
plug is in need of replacement

obtain new plug ck gap same method if new one is a one size fits all type you may need to use alignment tool part of gap checker tool (TEE looking thing) by sliding tee opening over hammer arm and gently bending down to tighten or away to loosten it

reinstall plug in engine torque to mfg specs(about 20to 30 ftlbs) and apply dilectric boot grease to boot protection sleeve and push down firmly over plug you;ll feel it snap on

do same for all spark plugs

the spark plug socket size is 5/8"x 3/8" drive and you need a 3/8 drive 3" or 6" extension with a 3/8 drive ratchet and a spark plug gapping tool to make sure the plugs are gapped properly.the drain plug is either a 1/2" or 7/8" wrench depending if it has been replaced due to being bad.

If you're replacing the spark plugs in your car engine, you'll need to set the gap before reseating the spark plug. The gap is the distance electricity arcs between the ground electrode and center electrode. The gap must be set correctly to ensure maximum performance. Here's how to set the gap of a spark plug.

1. Remove the spark plug wires. Use a socket wrench to remove the spark plugs from their chambers.
   
2. Clean the spark plug if you are not replacing it with a new one. Remove all dirt and debris from the spark plug.
   
3. Check the owner's manual for your car (or any appliance with spark plugs) to find out the recommended gap setting.
   
4. Use a gap tool to check the gap of the spark plug. Slip the tool between the ground electrode and center electrode. The gap tool should fit snugly at the recommended gap width indicated on the tool.
   
5. Push the tool between the electrodes a few times to ensure proper gap. If the gap is too wide, push the ground electrode firmly against a flat surface to narrow the gap and then check again with the gap tool.
   
6. Repeat Step 5 as necessary until you reach the correct gap. Reseat the spark plug and reattach the spark plug wires
   

Good Luck

1. Expect spark-plug work to be tedious. If this is your first time, plan 3 or 4 hours after engine cools (or 1 hour on several days), allowing 15 minutes per plug. It is harder than changing air filters, fixing flat tires, or starting a mower.
2. Consult your vehicle's manual. Look up where your spark plugs are, how many you have, the correct "gap", and the size socket needed to remove them. Also write down the vehicle's make, model, and year. The gap can also be found on the emissions label under the hood.
3. Visit your local auto parts store. Find (either by looking up in the provided reference book or by asking an employee) the correct spark plugs for your vehicle. The store also has socket wrenches, plus spark-plug sockets (with gasket), and socket-extension rods or swivel-joints to reach recessed plugs.
4. Find out (from the reference book, the packaging, or the employee) if these spark plugs need to be "gapped". Some modern plugs should not be gapped (but others can have different gaps, depending on use in either 6-cylinder or V-8 engines, etc.).
5. Park vehicle, turn off the engine, and open the engine compartment, to cool for hours. (WARNING: After running a car for a long time, the spark plugs can be the hottest part of engine! While it can require several hours to cool enough, it can require several weeks to heal burnt skin.) Especially with aluminum-head engines, let cool to room temperature to reduce the probability of damaging the threads.
6. Take (if needed) a wire-gauge spark plug gap tool and adjust the distance between the two electrodes. Between the electrodes is where a spark is made. One electrode will be an L-shaped piece of metal (hook), the other a metal prong centered directly across from it. Set the gap between the two electrodes, from .028-.060 inch, such as .035/.040 /.043 /.050, as in book (see Tips below).
7. Collect tools & new plugs (perhaps in a tool-tray). Remember which direction the socket-wrench switches to reverse/unscrew: wrench might not be visible when working back plugs.
8. Check fit of new plugs inside wrench-socket gasket. If new plugs stick to rubber gasket, consider removing gasket with screwdriver in square hole, to just use tape. Like taping screws to a screwdriver, the socket can be taped to spark plugs (not the threads) with scotch tape, for easy release once inside the engine. Otherwise, have pliers to pry the socket off new plugs once installed.
9. Locate (with the help of your manual or a repair manual for your vehicle) the distributor spark-plug cables/wires. The number of wires will be equal to the number of spark plugs your engine has. Often these wires are red or black, and will be equally divided on opposite sides of the engine.
10. Using masking tape, mark each of these wires for where they connect. Don't rely on memory: if interrupted, easy to forget, and engine can run rough with crossed plug wires. For 8 cylinders, deducing plug connections is almost impossible (120 choices for 5 wires) -- in that case you must contact an expert or study wiring guides.
11. Remove each spark-plug cable, pulling the caps (to avoid breaking cable wires). Caps should come loose by very intense twisting/pulling (avoid jerking/hitting fingers).
12. Using compressed air, pressurized engine cleaner, or a brush, clean all debris from around the plug.
13. Using a spark-plug socket, remove each plug from the engine, and replace each with a new spark plug. Don't over tighten (usually just 1/16 turn, after finger-tight).
14. Replace the spark-plug cables on the same plugs they originally came from, and remove the masking tape.
15. Remove tools near engine (beware the moving belts), close your engine compartment, and start your vehicle.

I hope this helps.

Hello
It depends.Some autos need to have the front tire removed to get to the plugs.Or the battery is in the way.

Lets say you have a clear view at the plugs.
1. Tools You need a 3/8 ratchet with an 6 inch extension and a 5/8 or 13/16 socket.
2.A blanket or towell to cover up your fender so you dont scratch the paint.
3.A spark plug gap tool.Plug type and gap should be listed on the engine sticker under the hood.
4.Optional-undo positive cable on battery.
5.Start on first plug.DO ONE AT A TIME.pull 1 plug wire off ,and remove spark plug using your ratchet and socket.Set gap on new plug and install into plug hole.
6 Pull one wire and plug at a time so you do not cross wires and mess up firing order.

May sound like alot but its really easy.

not to bad you'll need long extension, front one are there in view, the back one's remove spark plug boot (long one) and with extension you can reach spark plug's.

,035 just did a tune op on one last night!!

I don't know if your vehicle is a 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder. This will make a difference in the # of cylinders as well as the placement. If it is the 4 c ylinder when you open the hood it says at Autozone.com that the spark plugs are on the front of the motor lined up 1-4. If it is the 6 cylinder then you will have 3 at the front of the motor and 3 at the back of the motor. Regardless it is the same concept. I don't know for this particular vehicle, but it is possible you may have to remove a large plastic engine covering in order to access the spark plugs. What I recommend is to replace the spark plug wires at the same time as the plugs. For all my vehicles I use NGK plugs and NAPA auto parts has the best plug wires I have used - Belden Maxx. Prior to starting you will want to check the "GAP" on each new spark plug. Using a spark plug gap tool available at parts places for about $1. Take the new plug and the non-porcelin end (the end that has the arc) insert the arc into the gap tool at the lowest end and slide the plug around until you reach the corresponding "GAP". For this vehicle it should be .44" (I checked on Autozone's website but you may want to check to be sure. At some of the part's places they may tell you that you don't have to check the gap, but believe me you alway's should. I just did a car where they insisted that I didn't need to check the gap and each plug was not gapped properly. The Arc on the plug has to be specific for your vehicle or you will have too much spark or not enough. After gapping the new plugs you are ready to start. Somewhere on the side of the motor you should see either 4 or 6 wires/cables branching out to the cylinders. Starting with whichever you prefer (do only one at a time to avoid confusion) trace the wire/cable to the cylinder and where it goes to the cylinder a "boot" covers the spark plug. Twist the boot until it comes off . If you are going to replace the plug wires take that one off and match it up to your new set (They will be different lengths). You will need a ratchet and a spark plug socket (available at parts places) The spark plug socket has rubber on the inside to protect the porcelin of the spark plug, and to provide grip. You may or may not need a small extension. Place the spark plug socket over the end of the spark plug and apply pressure until the spark plug begins to loosen. You may have to apply quite a bit of pressure if they are in there tight. Once it is loosened take the old plug out, and place the new plug in the spark plug socket. Don't use the ratchet at this point, just begin to thread the plug in by hand once it is in there as much as you can get it, tighten it down with the ratchet making sure not to over-tighten. Do the other cylinders in the same manner.

1. Expect spark-plug work to be tedious. If this is your first time, plan 3 or 4 hours after engine cools (or 1 hour on several days), allowing 15 minutes per plug.
2. Consult your vehicle's manual. Look up where your spark plugs are, how many you have, the correct "gap", and the size socket needed to remove them. Also write down the vehicle's make, model, and year.
3. Visit your local auto parts store. Find (either by looking up in the provided reference book or by asking an employee) the correct spark plugs for your vehicle. The store also has socket wrenches, plus spark-plug sockets (with gasket), and socket-extension rods or swivel-joints to reach recessed plugs.
4. Find out (from the reference book, the packaging, or the employee) if these spark plugs need to be "gapped". Some modern plugs should not be gapped (but others can have different gaps, depending on use in either 6-cylinder or V-8 engines, etc.).
5. Park vehicle, turn off the engine, and open the engine compartment, to cool for hours. (WARNING: After running a car for a long time, the spark plugs can be the hottest part of engine! While it can require several hours to cool enough, it can require several weeks to heal burnt skin.)
6. Take (if needed) a wire-gauge spark plug gap tool and adjust the distance between the two electrodes. Between the electrodes is where a spark is made. One electrode will be an L-shaped piece of metal (hook), the other a metal prong centered directly across from it. Set the gap between the two electrodes, from .028-.060 inch, such as .035/.040 /.043 /.050, as in book (see Tips below).
7. Collect tools & new plugs (perhaps in a tool-tray). Remember which direction the socket-wrench switches to reverse/unscrew: wrench might not be visible when working back plugs.
8. Check fit of new plugs inside wrench-socket gasket. If new plugs stick to rubber gasket, consider removing gasket with screwdriver in square hole, to just use tape. Like taping screws to a screwdriver, the socket can be taped to spark plugs (not the threads) with scotch tape, for easy release once inside the engine. Otherwise, have pliers to pry the socket off new plugs once installed.
9. Locate (with the help of your manual or a repair manual for your vehicle) the distributor spark-plug cables/wires. The number of wires will be equal to the number of spark plugs your engine has. Often these wires are red or black, and will be equally divided on opposite sides of the engine.
10. Using masking tape, mark each of these wires for where they connect. Don't rely on memory: if interrupted, easy to forget, and engine can run rough with crossed plug wires. For 8 cylinders, deducing plug connections is almost impossible (120 choices for 5 wires) -- in that case you must contact an expert or study wiring guides.
11. Remove each spark-plug cable, pulling the caps (to avoid breaking cable wires). Caps should come loose by very intense twisting/pulling (avoid jerking/hitting fingers).
12. Using a spark-plug socket, remove each plug from the engine, and replace each with a new spark plug. Don't over tighten (usually just 1/16 turn, after finger-tight).
13. Replace the spark-plug cables on the same plugs they originally came from, and remove the masking tape.
14. Remove tools near engine (beware the moving belts), close your engine compartment, and start your vehicle.

mcdevito75 here, I;m sure you mean spark plugs, as glow plugs are for a Diesel engine. -------------- If by chance they are glow plugs and you do have a Diesel engine, I would take it to a shop for installation for 1 reason, the electrical connection on each glow plug is plastic, and in time Plastic gets very hard and brittle, what to do if 1 of those electrical connections break?????. If they are spark plugs, you should buy a spark plug gapper tool available at any auto parts store and get the gap of the spark plugs also the parts store has that info, usuallu .027 Spark Plugs are pre-gapped at the factory but need to be double checked, adjust gap (most likely not need) but if so by slightly, slightly bending the side or Bent electrode on the spark plug tip, Next you"ll need the exact spark plug socket and wrench, also available at the parts store, Let"s assume your set to go, on a cold, cold engine, twist, twist each spark plug wire at the spark plug itself, (as close to the engine as possible) TWIST and pull the spark plug wire off 1 spark plug just 1 . Fit you socket and wrech onto the spark plug all the way, make sure tool is fully on the spark plug, then remove the spark plug, install same way, do not use much force to tighten the spark plugs as they are tapered to fit fairly tight with just a little tightening, Follow this for all the spark plugs and you"ll be good to go. If you have a Diesel engine and indeed glow plugs, let the shop do the job.