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There is an ignition key and lock tumbler on the right side of the steering column. Then the electrical switch is mounted on top of the steering column but it is above the brake pedal and immensely hard to reach so that a crook cannot easily hop in and over-ride the key to hot wire the car.
So, your key turns a gear that moves a 2-3 foot long steel rod that actuates the electrical switch that powers ignition, accessory and start commands.
If you could see the sterring colum out of the car, you would find that the electrical switch that runs everything is a foot or two from the ignition key that you install and rotate to engage services.
A slim round steel rod transfers mechanical commands from your key to the electrical switch that commands engine operation.
In other words, the "electrical side" of your ignition switch is a foot or two away from where the key goes in, and usually it is vertically right above the brake pedal on top of the round steering column, down in the footwell of the driver's seat.
Yes, All House are Earthed since Benjamin Franklin first discovered how to save buildings from Lightening Strikes.
Read this:-
Lightning Rod
Rod believed to be an original of Franklin's
Once Franklin had an understanding of the behavior of electricity, he set about to protect houses from the destructive forces of lightning. A lightning rod, simply, is a rod attached to the top of a building, connected to the ground through a wire. The electric charge from lightning strikes the rod and the charge is conducted harmlessly into the ground. This protects houses from burning down and people from electrocution.
Franklin wrote, in 1753
It has pleased God in his goodness to mankind, at length to discover to them the means of securing their habitations and other buildings from mischief by thunder and lightning. The method is this: Provide a small iron rod (it may be made of the rod-iron used by the nailers) but of such a length, that one end being three or four feet in the moist ground, the other may be six or eight feet above the highest part of the building. To the upper end of the rod fasten about a foot of brass wire, the size of a common knitting-needle, sharpened to a fine point; the rod may be secured to the house by a few small staples. If the house or barn be long, there may be a rod and point at each end, and a middling wire along the ridge from one to the other. A house thus furnished will not be damaged by lightning, it being attracted by the points, and passing through the metal into the ground without hurting any thing. Vessels also, having a sharp point rod fix'd on the top of their masts, with a wire from the foot of the rod reaching down, round one of the shrouds, to the water, will not be hurt by lightning.
Look for 1/4" thick Copper Bare solid wire near where your Water pipe comes in the Hose or near the Electicty power comer into the house.
If your key unlocks the ignition lock cylinder but it wont turn far enough to get to the crank position, you may have a bad ignition switch. The switch is NOT the part near the steering wheel where you insert the key, there is a long linkage rod that runs down the column to the switch. The switch itself is located on top of the steering column up under the dash near the brake pedal. It is mounted with slotted holes for adjustment on a metal bracket with a plastic body (usually white plastic) I think it has two separate plugs with several wires in each one.
It could also be the lock cylinder/rod mechanism in the upper part of the column is binding. you do not want to attempt to take that mechanism apart if you don't have the special tools to do it properly.
Commonly Asked Torque Specs in foot pounds The main bolts have a torque of 76 lb.-feet and the cylinder head bolts have 62 lb.-feet of torque. The cylinder head studs have 70 foot-lbs of torque, the cam timing gear have lb.-feet of torque, and the cam bearing bolt has 14 lb.-feet of torque.
Crankshaft Torque Specs
The stock rod bolts have 46 lb.-feet of torque and the ARP rod bolts have 50 lb.-feet of torque. The crankshaft pulley has 116 lb.-feet of torque, while the flywheel has 80 lb.-feet of torque.
Other Torque Specs
The intake manifold and exhaust manifold have 33 lb.-feet of torque each and the oil pan bolts have 9 lb.-feet of torque. The cam timing gear has 58 lb.-feet of torque and the cam bearing bolt has 14 lb.-feet of torque. One set of timing cover bolts have 9 lb.-feet of torque and another set has 29 lb.-feet of torque
Check under your dash at the levers for the Brake pedal. There are some Interlock switches that get hit by feet fairly regularly. The switch that makes the gearshift unlock is on the Brake pedal.You have to have your foot on the brake to shift out of Park.
When the shifter is stuck you will not be able to remove your Key from the Ignition. You need to press on the Brake and then try to get the trigger on the shifter to move into Park. Once in Park everything will be okay.
I suspect you mechanical ignition switch if faulty. This is located on top of the steering column by the drivers feet. Disconnect battery to prevent activation of airbag .Remove the panel under the steering wheel and the nuts or bolts holding the column to the dash. Lower the column and you will see a rectangular box mounted on top that has a wiring harness on the driver side and a metal rod out of the top. This is the mechanical switch that I believe is bad. Mark the location with a scribe or sharp metal point along 2 sides. Remove mount screws, unplug harness, and carefully remove metal rod from bottom of switch. Install metal rod in new switch, making sure the rod moves freely and does not bind up. Remount switch, aligning with the marks you made on the column. Put key in lock cylinder and test operation of the switch by turning fully to the start position, watching that metal rod for movement and return of switch to normal operating position. If you have it aligned correctly you will see the rod move as you turn the key to the start position and move as you release the key. Plug in the wire harness and and reinstall column, then panel and reconnect battery. Hope this helps!!
Put the key into ignition and turn the key to On, but don't start the engine.
Next, turn the wheel to the
direction that it got stuck in as far as it will go.
If it is still stuck, turn the wheel the other direction as far as it will go.
If it is STILL stuck, take the steering wheel off and all the hardware. There should be a
plate that has a small rod, no more than 2" long going though
it. That's the lock. Pull it out and it won't lock anymore.
I had the same problem. The solution is to first remove the key by removing the hole cover on the bottom of the steering column and depressing the plunger. The owner's manual tells you how. If you don't remove the key, the battery will go dead, and you will have trouble opening the rear hatch, where the battery is. You can jump start from the front. It tells you how in the manual. Then take your car to the dealer for replacement of the automatic shifter. The problem is caused by a defect in the shifter made by delphi (I Think). A pin that that goes through the shift rod becomes loose and slides to one side so it does not engage a micro switch that releases the key. GM has know about this problem for some time. I hope you are still under warranty, otherwise it will cost you $475. There is another post on the internet that gives a do-it-yourself fix.
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