My pickup whont start i test the presher it bilds up when pump shuts off it drops prity fast

real engine name is 797 cc F8A I4 ??? right? I bet BINGO for F8
car is Gen 7 , is my guess.
or in Pakistan, ? with with the three-cylinder F8B 796 cc fuel i3.
3 cylinders or 4? i bet 4,
but cranks fast? (not told)
there are over 50 causes for any engine to stall.
has carb right? gas engine Petrol.
if starter motor is dead, try headlamps, key on and keyoff
and key oh HL + heater blower full speed,fast. are they good.'
if cranks OK and will not start, it LOST SPARK or fuel
we test spark first, on all cylinders not just 1.
fails only hot engine.?
sounds like UK car to me with that name , is it UK?
will it start WOT, wide open throttle
or will it start 5% throttle (right foot actions)
when dead , all test. above, I can not test engines that run ;/
EGR struck open kills all these engines, as they roll to the stop
EGR main valve stuck open, does that, endless on all suzukis until hear 2000 when motor drive EGR won. Vacuum EGR are painful.
ask.
when the unstated engine wants to stall, can the right foot save if form the stall?y/n? easy, hard , impossible , 3 possible.??????

and more distributor failing or only hot.
or bad CARB or fuel pump ,intermittant
or bad fuel

a Chrysler LHS 3.5L V6 !?
stalls have 50+ caused. lots of test to find and a pile of tools.
always cranks fast right. for sure at each stall, not told
and as it stalls a fast acting right foot can not cure the stall or delay it:??????????
running 23 year old spark plugs x 6 and then gaped to spec?
x6 running 23 year old COP boots has no play , just pain.
how many miles are on it, 250,000?
bad fueL.
all filters packed, up, air and fuel.
FPR bad, making fuel pressure way low (FP regulator is vacuum regulated (at rail)and must do that job or there is no hope. most this old are dead. it moves inside every time you start the car or move right foot and gets huge wear over time for sure this old.

1. bad engine (the huge list)
2. bad EFI parts and spark
3. bad FUELING.

1,2,3 in that order,gas engines. this is my tiny list of 50
I just do the tests and then find the cause not guessing
using tools.

scan the PCM yet and all fuses good.?
if you can make it stall or cranks ok and fails start. scan it now.
no better way exits like this, is to make it fail on demand and then run tests. if can.

Don't guess , if you don't know ,take it to a qualified repair shop an have fuel pressure & flow testing done . Also have voltage drop test on electrical circuit .
Testing Electric Fuel Pump Problems with Voltage Drop Test

Are you loosing fuel pressure, or spark ?

hot or cold engine , or both.?
the oil pressure will be in direct ratio to engine rpm. slow low, fast high
due to the oil pump connection to engine crankshaft.

stalls.: can be caused by 50 things, or just 4 in physics.
the EGR valve (if you have one, no engine stated)
can stick open and stall any engine, and in fact LOVES to. clean it.
1: list 12vdc to EFI. (spark and fuel brain) dash lights dim?
2: lost compression hot, ? compression tests.
3: lost spark, do spark tests. and timing, checks.
4: bad fueling, too much if floods, and misfires and stalls.
too little fuel, it starves and dies.

the 1 free test, is can you save the stall with a fast right foot.

we do the tests. avoiding those 50 guesses....
each tests are simple and the tools dirt cheap .

Have the battery tested first, i bet it is defective. Autozone does this test for free.

No, no reset for an S10. There would be a fuel pump relay under the hood in the fuse/relay block. And also a 10 or 15 amp fuse for the pump at this junction block as well.
Check the fuse, then find the tank electrical connector, pull it apart and find the gray wire -the fuel pump wire. Clip a test light lead to ground then put the tester probe into the gray wire terminal on the harness side of connector. Now have a helper turn the key to start and crank the engine over. The test light should light up if your electrical circuit is working. Before you drop the tank to investigate the fuel pump (it probably needs replacing), check if the ground for the pump is alright. Maybe when you hit the curb, you jarred loose the ground connection.

pluged air intake

try opening the air box then start and drive if all works fine snake the intake tube with garden hose
if it does same thing look for vac leaks then fuel presure
theres a schrader valve on the fuel rail for testing fuel presure and weather the rail holds presure when not running

Once a filter plugs its pluged. You drop that much pressure its time for a new fuel pump.

This sounds like a fuel pump check valve problem, if the fuel is not kept in the filter and lines by the check valve it drains back into the fuel tank and causes the kind of problems you are having, you can check this by hooking up a fuel pressure guage at the test port on the fuel manifold that supplies fuel to the injectors, run the engine and shut it down, note the fuel pressure at shut down (with the test guage hooked up), walk away for an hour, come back and check the pressure, it should not have dropped more than 5 PSI You can buy a universal fuel injection pressure tester for about $25.00, cheaper than having a shop run the test. If the pressure drops you found the problem, bad news is the check valve is in the pump, the pump is in the gas tank.