After a power outage my android box will not turn on . what do i have to do

It sounds like the timer may have been affected by the power outage and is not functioning properly. If the timer is a mechanical timer, you can try resetting the time on the timer and check if the trippers (ON/OFF pointers) are set to the correct time and are not loose. If the trippers are loose, then they could slip and cause issues with the pump turning on/off at the correct times. You can also try lubricating the manual on/off switch with a lubricant such as WD-40. If the timer is a digital timer, you can try replacing the battery to see if that resolves the issue.

Check the disconnect at the outside unit, little box on the wall. If not, turn power off and remove top to outdoor unit.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/thomas_092728000e6acb79

You need to think of these ovens as electronic devices. If you get this message after a power outage, it is behaving just like your cable box or internet router when they have functional upset from a power outage. Turn the power off to the oven at the electrical box for 10 minutes then turn it back on. The oven should cycle up and then work. Mine did!

try a different HDMI input

Hi,first you need to check if fuse has not been blown out.Because when POWER comes back after an outage there is a surge voltage flowing through electrical lines.It is advisable that when their is a POWER outage you have to turn off your FUSE box or SAFETY box to make sure that it won'tdamage appliances when POWER comes back>Technically when POWER SOURCE or SUPPLY has been shut off for a period of time.When POWER is back, expectantly there is an abnormal flow of current/line; current will not be as stable until a period of time..AC current behaves like a wave,values changes from time to time especially when POWER SOURCE has just been TURNED ON..So better turn off FUSE BOX when experiencing POWER OUTAGE so that when power comes back SURGE VOLTAGE wont flow within the circuit>Hope this helps..

Unplug the wii power cord from the wall and the wii for 5 mins. to reset the brick on the power cord.

If you have dual tuner / PNP then follow Solution #1

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If you just has a power outage or after a move then give the following a try.

You have to go into the TV menu setup screen.


After a power outage the memory will go back to factory default.


Don't be surprise if it's display is not in English.


The black box is field for close caption (CC).

There are many transmission methods.

Go to the Close caption (CC) page and turn it off and save the setting.

HI. this will happen during most outages. there is a fuse located inside the power supply device that is used to power your unit. simply remove the cover off the power supply box, and replace the fuse inside. this will correct the issue.

***((Now, if the fuse is OK, and not harmed, this will confirm that the power supply has failed. It should be replaced in this case))

Usually, after a power outage, a power spike (when the power returns) can disable/blow the fuse in the AC adapter for the Wii.

Try the following steps in this order:

FIRST:
- unplug the Wii's power cord from the wall, and leave it unplugged (from 5 mins. to 5 hours). Then, plug it back into the wall. (Unplugging the power cord from the back of the Wii will not help. You need to unplug the power cord from the wall.)
- This usually helps reset the fuse circuit in the AC adapter, and your Wii should work again.

SECOND:
- open the panel on the AC adapter box in the power cord; since the screws are proprietary, you will need to creatively use existing tools to turn the screws
- check the 3A fuse in that box; if it looks blown, then replace it

THIRD:
- it might be cheaper to replace the AC adapter with another one

FOURTH:
- get the unit repaired

MUST DO:
- buy a SURGE PROTECTOR power bar, and plug all of your expensive items into it (to prevent this from happening again).

Hope that helps!

Hi, this is a bit basic, try turning of for about 1/2 hour, to enable to discharge, then try again.
( I have used this on industrial installations, with far to complex computers stuff inside, and that mainly works)