Question about Mitsubishi WS-73907 TV

5 Answers

Three colors are "bowing"...

The problem is intermittent. The three colors at the screen of this Mitsubishi WS-73907 Rear Projection TV Set are “bowing” or arching from the sides to the center of the screen. It happens sometimes at turn on, or after a while of a nice and clear picture. All the images are there, I mean, we don’t loose the image at all. It seems that the tubes were suddenly out of geometry without a particular reason; always from sides to center making the image looking like a sand clock or hourglass. That’s it. Would you be as kind as help me to figure it out what is causing the problem?

Thanks a lot in advance.

Respectfully.


Alejandro Busquets

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  • 10 more comments 
  • Alejandro Busquets Nov 12, 2007

    Hello Terryfic, thank you for the answer. You say “…bad solder connects on the pins of the convergence IC's” May I ask: Solder them again won’t be enough to solve the problem? Is it cold solder situation?



    Thanks again!

  • Alejandro Busquets Nov 12, 2007

    OK Terryfic, I'll try that and let you. Thanks again...

  • Alejandro Busquets Dec 19, 2007

    Thank you for the answer. Would you please read the following? I just have sent to premium.support@fixya.com

    Dear Sirs, I have purchase the Premium Assistance Plan in order to solve the following situation. After we changed IC?s IC8C01 and IC8C02 both STK392-570 at the Mitsubishi WS-73907 Projection Television as Terryfic, one of your experts suggested we couldn?t even verify if that worked because as soon as we turned it on, the set went off after two or three seconds. We tried several times and the situation still the same. So, would you be as kind as redirect the problem to your Premium Assistance Experts to solve this problem first in order to see if the IC?s replaced (mentioned above) solved the original problem?



    In order to make it you easier, we are attaching to this message the block diagram (page 67 of chassisv17-sm) of the area where we believe the problem is, and the schematic (page 03 of chassisv17-sch) of the respectively board.



    Symptom: When we push the power button to turn the TV set on, it just keeps the ?ON? condition for about two seconds and then it goes off itself without any particular reason.



    Troubleshooting: After studying the service manuals, we started tracking the problem and we found that fuses F9A05 is open and F9A04 became a 2.3 M Ohms resistance at PCB-POWER board. Because of the way the Project Television was build, it is not easy at all to access the back of the boards and measure some voltages (test points) while everything is connected with the necessary current to check some test points. Therefore, with your experience in this piece of equipment and your knowledge over the block and schematic diagrams, we believe someone there may advice us about what is burning these fuses, maybe a transistor, an IC, maybe the transformer; what we really would like to hear is something as: substitute this and that part and that?s it? However, we can (it will take some time) unplugged all the boards remove them and reconnect them out of the box in order to check the necessary voltages...



    Please help, help, and help.





    Thanks a lot in advance.



    Respectfully.





    Alejandro Busquets.

    axbyfz@prodigy.net.mx

  • Alejandro Busquets Dec 19, 2007

    Hello Shuttle83, I want to thank you for the clear explanation, the technical advice, and your personal opinion. Let me push the story a little further? I?m an audio and video engineer with 30 years in the industry; 25 in the broadcast area and now 5 at the high end residence automation. I?m not at all a TV sets repair expert, but here is the situation: The TV set is in Mexico City. My client loves the way his TV set works and he wants to try anything before get rid of it. Of course the very first thing I tried when the pincushion thing started was to find an engineer or a technician to solve the problem; I couldn?t, not even with the people who sells the brand in my area which they don?t even had the set?s technical info. Second, take the TV set to a repair shop puts me back on the same situation, where, who and the task by itself is not easy at all; the thing is big, heavy and not easy to move among the stairways and the many floor levels. So, I decided to get the service manuals which I did, and start the troubleshooting ourselves asking for some help to possible advisors like FixYa for example.

    So, that?s where we are now. What do you think? I guess we have to keep on trying by ourselves. Would you please help us? The very first thing I?ll do, as you suggested, is verify the whole board in order to find any possible problem at circuit level I mean traces, cold solders, connections, whatever. The second one is get the replacement fuses (F9A04, F9A05) which both are LF251 5A. It won?t be easy to get them here, I?ll have to purchase them through the Internet to any shop on the US as I did with the IC?s and pay you know 300 % more for the freight than cost of the fuses. On the mean time and for troubleshooting purposes only, can you suggest me any kind of substitute in order to start the troubleshooting while the fuses get in?

    Thanks a lot again.

    Respectfully.

    Alejandro Busquets

  • Alejandro Busquets Dec 19, 2007

    Hello Bill, thanks for the message. The STK392-570's were purchase to Bluestar International Components (BIC) through the Internet. They cost $7.99 each and as they look they didn?t have a brand at their faceplate just the number. Chinese? I have no idea.
    Is there any way to see if they are causing the problem?
    Where I can get a good pair of it, I mean a pair or reliable STK392-570?Got to be through Internet and they have to ship internationally?
    Do you know if that Acme Enterprises in Florida can ship to Mexico City? Can you send me their Web address or their E-mail?
    What about PTS Electronics, where they are? Can you send me their info?

    Thanks a lot.

    Respectfully.

    Alejandro Busquets.

  • Alejandro Busquets Dec 19, 2007

    Hello Terryfic, have you been reading all the messages?

    Respectfully.

    Alejandro Busquets

  • Alejandro Busquets Dec 19, 2007

    Bill, thanks again. I already made those tests. The microprocessor is working and I got a "12" at the error code operational check...

    Have you read my last post?

    Alejandro

  • Alejandro Busquets Jan 02, 2008

    Hello Terryfic (Terry), Premtech (Bill), Shuttle83, Fwadley, and everybody there. OK, the client is back from holydays so we can start working on the trouble again.



    On the mean time, I ordered a pair of brand new Sanyo STK392-570 from ACME Enterprises as Bill suggested, their cost: $16.49 + Shipping + Tax. If you ask me, they look identical to the ones we bought before from Blue Star International Components, no Sanyo logo or any other difference; the only one is a short number at the top right corner. The ones from Blue Star: B3B13 and the ones from ACME: B7E25. We also ordered ten 5A 125 V Pico Fuses in order to start the troubleshooting again.



    Everybody agrees, I guess, that the very first thing to do is get the TV set in the original condition, I mean, solve the trouble that is burning fuses F9A04 and F9A05 and then see what happened with the “bowing” or “pincushion effect”.



    So, in this very moment I’ll change the IC’s again; I will solder the original ones. I’ll substitute F9A04 and F9A05 with a pair of 5A pico fuses and I let you know what happened later on.



    Question: Do you think it worth the effort to reconnect all boards with visual access to the soldering side in order to verify some Test Points actively or measure some voltages?



    For those who knows the chassis can imagine that this one is not an easy task…



    Respectfully.



    Alejandro Busquets

  • Alejandro Busquets Jan 02, 2008

    Hi Terry, thank you. Hope you have a great 2008.

    I sent this text few minutes ago:

    Hello Terryfic (Terry), Premtech (Bill), Shuttle83, Fwadley, and everybody there. OK, the client is back from holydays so we can start working on the trouble again.

    On the mean time, I ordered a pair of brand new Sanyo STK392-570 from ACME Enterprises as Bill suggested, their cost: $16.49 + Shipping + Tax. If you ask me, they look identical to the ones we bought before from Blue Star International Components, no Sanyo logo or any other difference; the only one is a short number at the top right corner. The ones from Blue Star: B3B13 and the ones from ACME: B7E25. We also ordered ten 5A 125 V Pico Fuses in order to start the troubleshooting again.

    Everybody agrees, I guess, that the very first thing to do is get the TV set in the original condition, I mean, solve the trouble that is burning fuses F9A04 and F9A05 and then see what happened with the ?bowing? or ?pincushion effect?.

    So, in this very moment I?ll change the IC?s again; I will solder the original ones. I?ll substitute F9A04 and F9A05 with a pair of 5A pico fuses and I let you know what happened later on.

    Question: Do you think it worth the effort to reconnect all boards with visual access to the soldering side in order to verify some Test Points actively or measure some voltages?

    For those who knows the chassis can imagine that this one is not an easy task?

    Respectfully.

    Alejandro Busquets

  • Alejandro Busquets Jan 02, 2008

    Hi Terry, thank you. I hope you have a great 2008. I just sent this message few minutes ago:

    Hello Terryfic (Terry), Premtech (Bill), Shuttle83, Fwadley, and everybody there. OK, the client is back from holydays so we can start working on the trouble again.

    On the mean time, I ordered a pair of brand new Sanyo STK392-570 from ACME Enterprises as Bill suggested, their cost: $16.49 + Shipping + Tax. If you ask me, they look identical to the ones we bought before from Blue Star International Components, no Sanyo logo or any other difference; the only one is a short number at the top right corner. The ones from Blue Star: B3B13 and the ones from ACME: B7E25. We also ordered ten 5A 125 V Pico Fuses in order to start the troubleshooting again.

    Everybody agrees, I guess, that the very first thing to do is get the TV set in the original condition, I mean, solve the trouble that is burning fuses F9A04 and F9A05 and then see what happened with the ?bowing? or ?pincushion effect?.

    So, in this very moment I?ll change the IC?s again; I will solder the original ones. I?ll substitute F9A04 and F9A05 with a pair of 5A pico fuses and I let you know what happened later on.

    Question: Do you think it worth the effort to reconnect all boards with visual access to the soldering side in order to verify some Test Points actively or measure some voltages?

    For those who knows the chassis can imagine that this one is not an easy task?

    Respectfully.

    Alejandro Busquets

  • Alejandro Busquets Jan 02, 2008

    Hello troylove11, thank you for the message. We just have finish the resoldering of the originals IC's and the two fuses. We are going now to the client's house to reconnect everything. We hope to recover the original condition, I mean, the very first thing we need is to keep the "on" condition on the TV set. I let everybody knows what happened...

    Respectfully.

    Alejandro Busquets

  • Alejandro Busquets Jan 08, 2008

    Hello again, this message is to explain the actual status of the Mitsubishi WS-73907. Do you remember my last message posted on January 02?



    Partial: “…So, in this very moment I’ll change the IC’s again; I will solder the original ones. I’ll substitute F9A04 and F9A05 with a pair of 5A Pico fuses and I let you know what happened later on”



    Well, that finally happened on Thursday 03. The originals IC’s are back in and the substitutes Pico fuses too. The TV Set turned on immediately, so fortunately we are back on the original situation where all have start. I made all the advanced convergence adjustments in STV and HDTV without a problem.



    What is going now? No “bowing”, no “pincushion” for the last four days. I asked the client to use it as much as possible.



    But, remember the very first message? “…The problem is intermittent”

    The question now is how much time (days, weeks) do I have to wait to see if the failure starts again?



    What was the problem? Who knows… The only thing we know for sure now is that those IC’s bought to Blue Star International were defective… That is incredible to me. During the process, no traces were broken; all connections were and are right; all substitutions were done very carefully with a lot of patience and as clean as possible. The only different thing that might have the set working fine now is a possible cold soldering; as suggested, I watched one by one very carefully and remade those that appeared suspicious, only on the same board. That’s it.



    Just for the records: Any idea? And the question now, how much waiting time?





    Thanks again.



    Respectfully.



    Alejandro Busquets

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5 Answers

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Just checking to see if you have fixed your set? Looks like you have much help here. Hope you can resolve issue. I would like to help if I could.

Posted on Jan 02, 2008

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Alejandro,
As Terryfic correctly pointed out 9a04 and 9a05 feed the convergence amps in that circuit and one very important question he asked seems to have been overlooked in your zealous albeit elusive attempt to get answers, where did you purchase the STK392-570's from??
I've been a licensed technician more than twenty years and like Terryfic I can tell you from that level of experience that our industry is flooded with chineese knock-off transistors that wouldn't last ten minutes in that set. So if you didn't get these as Sanyo originals from some place like Acme Enterprises in Florida - or some place that you can without a doubt know that they are 100% Sanyo originals you haven't done step one yet!
These are difficult sets to work on - not something for the 20 minute technician to cut his teeth on thinking s/he will save a buck or two by not having to pay those screw-you-over technicians and I see 3-5 of these V17 chassis a month. That said, your problem is in the convergence circuit as indicated by 9a04 & 9a05 opening. I would suggest from those symptoms that your convergence amps (one or both) has failed and that they should be replaced with original Sanyo Ic's.
As Fwadley pointed out you could also pull that board entirely and send it to PTS Electronics. They charge $50.00 dollars to bench test it for you and can even go as far as entirely rebuilding that board if you elect to do so.. Of course by the time you do all this and pay for it you might have been a bit more penny wise to have taken it to reputable shop.
Good Luck!
Bill

Posted on Dec 19, 2007

  • William Rayburn
    William Rayburn Dec 19, 2007

    Alejandro,

    Try this: The V17 chassis features self diagnostics to aid in troubleshooting problems that may cause the set to automatically turn off or "shut down." the "timer/power on led" provides an indication of the sets operation, and the possible cause of a malfunction.

    1. Initial control circuits check immediately after the tv is connected to an ac power source: The led flashes three times ... Indicating the microprocessor has initialized and is functioning properly. If the led does not flash ... The microprocessor is not functioning.

    2. Error code operational check. To activate the error code mode, while the set is off, press the front panel "input" and "menu" buttons at the same time and hold for 5 seconds. The led will flash denoting a two digit error code.

    Note: the front panel buttons must be used, not those on the remote control.

    . The number of flashes indicates the value of the msd (tens digit) of the error code.

    . The flashing then pauses for approximately 1/2 second.

    . The led then flashes indicating the value of the lsd (ones digit) of the error code.

    . The error code is repeated a total of 5 times.

    Example: for error code is "24", the led will flash 2 times, pause, and then flash 4 times.

    3. Error codes

    The error code designations indicating a malfunction, or no malfunction, are listed below:

    "12" ... Indicates no error has occurred.

    "21" ... X-ray protect circuit.

    "22" ... Short protect circuit.

    "23" ... Horizontal deflection failure.

    "24" ... Vertical deflection failure.





    Secondly, F9a04 and F9a05 are the (positive)+ and (negative)- 24v supplies to the convergence Ic's and these would not be affected by anything in the pincushion circuit. Despite Shuttle83's assertion you have not "...fallen prey to the convergence amplifier swap out fiasco" and nothing in the pincushion circuit could explain why the above pico fuses would be open other than the convergence amps.

    There are several other explanations for sides bowing initailly like mits part#935d523001... But that would still not explain these two pico fuses being open...



    The V17 chassis is used in several Mitsubishi models, WS55807, WS55857, WS55907, WS55908, WS65807, WS65857, WS65907, WS65908, WS73907, WT46807

    and I have seen and repaired this same convergence issue in all but one of the above. That said, I would still strongly recommend that you take this to a qualified shop.

    Bill



    Premium Technologies

    PO Box 442

    Long Beach, WA. 98631

    360-642-4993

    premtech@willapabay.org

    Proud Member of NESDA

  • William Rayburn
    William Rayburn Dec 20, 2007

    Alejandro,

    There is no doubt in my mind that at the price you paid for those STK's you got knock-offs NOT original Sanyo Ic's... Acme in Florida does ship to Mexico and Canada and their site address is: http://www.acme-sales.net/country.php

    The range in cost for an original Sanyo STK392-570 is between $16.00 and $22.00 dollars each... If you can find them any cheaper than $16.00 dollars I would be VERY suspicious!

    When you order the Ic's get the pico fuses also and some heat sink compound. Acme sells braid, solder and some other things also if you need anything else...

    Make sure to use a liberal amount of HS compound and be very careful when soldering the pins of the Ic not to keep the tip on the pins too long and solder only a few at a time and wait to allow heat to dissipate.

    Hope this helps!

    Bill

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Hello,

I have often repaired problems like this in my shop, what you experienced is called a pincushion effect. This is usually caused by the pincushion amp going bad. Let me explain. Your CRT's uses two magnetic fields to deflect an electron beam from left to right and from top to bottom. in the old days one yoke transformer was used to control three beams so the pincushion amp rarely went bad, and if it did you saw the effects right away (the hour glass pattern) decrease of horizontal sweep towards the center of the picture. This is due to the field being weaker at the center so the pincushion amp provides a counter wave to the deflection wave which makes the picture fit the geometry of the CRT. That is a lot to say in one breath. However this problem could have been taken care of by troubleshooting the pincushion circuit and determining what component was at fault. Now what has happened is that you (and others) have fallen prey to the "convergence amplifier swap out fiasco" The problem is too many people are using this shotgun form of troubleshooting without knowing the basics of TV repair, they may know electronics, but as with all electrical and electronic systems they each have their own functionality, and if you don't understand what is happening you may know what should happen, but you don't know what is happening, that is the case here. you treated this problem like a convergence issue when what you had was a pincushion issue. Now you have two problems because in swapping out the ICs you may have created a short circuit or a bridge between two unrelated circuits. Your best bet now is to take this set to a qualified TV repair shop to first repair what was done to it, and then to solve the original problem.

I have been working in the TV repair industry for over 25 years, and I still don't consider myself an expert because I am always learning something new about modern TVs and their functionality. That's why when a person brings a TV into my shop which had been subjected to "do it yourself" work, I sit the person down and show them what errors they made and a few times I even taught a few individuals electronics and TV repair. I like do it yourself, however I am one of those tech who believes that you should know what you are doing if you plan on doing it yourself, and talking people through procedures that require certain skills is never really a good idea no matter what your intent is. That is why solution #2 by fwadley is a very good solution. I just thought you needed an explanation about what happened. Terryfic gave you good advice, however (This is me being old fashioned) what was needed was additional troubleshooting before removing and replacing those ICs.

What is causing those resistors to burn is the fact that there is no offset signal to the amplifier the out put of the amplifier should almost be 0 volts, this is because the amplifier is actually a current amplifier and the offset voltage caused a 0v output. check the solder connections and make sure that all of the conductor traces are good. You may have created a broken trace during your working with the board, use a magnifying glass to look over the connections.

I hope this helps,
Shuttle83

Posted on Dec 19, 2007

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The two fuses blow when there is a short circuit in B+ feeding
convergence IC's that you changed.....so...........either

1) one or both of new IC's are defective ( what quality did you buy ? )

2) after soldering in new parts, did you clean pins with alcohol
and check for solder shorts between pins ? I use magnifier and ohm meter.......

3) Leaving connectors unplugged or plugging incorrectly
or possibly reversing plugs could result in blown fuses

Note: If you post comments as you proceed, I can comment back............................Terryfic.

Posted on Dec 19, 2007

  • 3 more comments 
  • Vista Electronics Dec 19, 2007

    Alejandro,

    Sorry you are having difficulty. I realize you are at a disadvantage

    when it comes to buying the proper parts for this repair.What most DIY repair persons don't understand is the hardest trouble

    is the one we put in ourselves and / or BAD NEW PARTS...!

    1) soldering convergence IC pins may have temporarily solved your problem given initially as "bowing",a common customer complaint.....not to be confused with "pincushion effect" which

    happens in older,direct view single glass tube TV's,but sometimes occurs in three tube rear projection TV's.I re-read your description of sandclock or hourglass effect and if the

    hourglass is upright,then I guided you in the wrong direction

    and Shuttle83's comment has some merit.If that is the case,



    2)Put the original STK392-570's back in and throw away the ones you bought and solder in some fast-acting 5 amp fuses,

    micro or pico....this procedure should get you back to original

    condition............



    3)Consider Bill's advice about part # 935d523001.......



    General note about replacement parts.....Unless I am absolutely

    certain a cheap,generic will hold up as long as an Original Equipment Manufacturers part ( OEM part ), I do not use it.

    The grief and double or triple labor is not worth it,not to mention

    the customer dis-satisfaction..................



    Alejandro,if I can help in some practical way,such as send you some fuses,let me know where to ship......Terry.

  • Vista Electronics Dec 24, 2007

    Where are we at on this repair ?..................................Terry.

  • Vista Electronics Jan 02, 2008

    Hello !

    How we doing this year ? Have you changed the STK392-570's

    again along with fuses ? Are we rid of the short ? ............T.

  • Vista Electronics Jan 02, 2008

    "Above all else,do no harm".........old Dr.'s motto........easy does it on the circuit traces un-soldering and re-soldering...can be

    stress / damage to trace material,also short or open circuit can

    occur......T.



    2) You cannot always ID the Mfr. of IC by looking at it, as Bill

    said..the price can be a clue and if you buy THE MFR.PART #,

    you will receive first quality....STKxxx-xxx is the common # sold

    as seconds, even third quality,usually the lower the price,the lower the quality........T.

  • Vista Electronics Jan 08, 2008

    Intermittants are hard to deal with....I suggest you leave well

    enough alone.............One thing worse than long-range

    intermittant issue is BAD NEW PARTS ! Please lock this problem solved with FixYa rating...........T.

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  • 482 Answers

I would take it to a TV repair place, they will charge around $50 and let you know what the problem is with it. this is your cheapest way out, it you want to get it. If you chose to take it please give me a fixya rateing. Thanks, Farren

Posted on Dec 19, 2007

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We can set the convergences great but after about 10 to 15 minutes ithe reds lines start moving a little again will not stay in position. It's a widescreen Mitsubishi rear projection tv ws-55857.


The problem - you're setting the convergence settings, but you're not saving them, you're
simply exiting the menu screen. Be sure to save your convergence setting for each
of the three colors. It sounds like you're setting RED last, and not saving its convergence setting,
whereas the GREEN & BLUE are holding their convergence settings, since you're saving them
correctly before proceeding on to RED....

Mar 15, 2011 | Mitsubishi WS-55857 55" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Double vision pops in and out


projection TV sets have two very common problems. One is convergence ( 3D/Warped video) the other is CRT fluid ( Dull Video). Here are more details and solutions for both.

Common Problem #1) Convergence has gone out

Projection TV sets need to have all three colors - RED - BLUE - GREEN - lined up correctly on the screen in order for the video to look normal. When its out of alignment the video will look 3D, wavy, distorted, etc. Most of the time you just need to adjust your convergence in the TV menu. If you cannot adjust it in the menu - then your convergence is broken and needs to be repaired.

This is a very common failure on these projection sets and a fairly simple DIY fix. All projection sets including Samsung, RCA, Sony, Philip Magnavox, Panasonic, Pioneer, Akai, GE, JVC, Toshiba, and others at some point will have the same problem.

Common Symptoms include....

  • Screen looks 3D
  • Colors don't line up
  • One or more colors can't be adjusted when using the convergence menu.
  • Screen is bowed or warped.
  • TV shuts off after powering on. Power light will blink. TV may also make a chirping noise.
Here are some pics of convergence problems.


7859b01.jpg

e87380c.jpg

Common Problem #2) CRT Fluid is Cloudy

Projection TV tubes have a liquid coolant that is used to keep them from overheating. After many years the coolant in the blue and green tubes will become cloudy and cause the screen to look dull, red/orange, etc. You may even see halos around images.

Picture of a set that needs the fluid changed.

578ba6c.jpg
TV set after fluid change

65af323.jpg

69189a5.pngSOLUTION

You can see some more examples and find a fix using this link on Fixya http://www.fixya.com/support/r2861467-solution_video_looking_whiteish_dull

Jan 22, 2011 | Mitsubishi WS-73907 TV

1 Answer

I have a Mitsubishi WS- 55859 projection screen tv and the screen/lamp flashes on and off a couple of times then lamp go off but you can still hear static.The TV is on but not picture is getting to the...


The WS-55859 does not have a "Lamp" it is a 2001 rear projection set with three picture tubes.

Have (if this is the correct model) you tried the self check this set has?


Also do you have this problem on all inputs--tuner, and various rear inputs?

The more you tell me the better I can help you.

Got a IM?

SD TECH

Feb 23, 2010 | Mitsubishi WS-55859 55" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Picture is bowed at top and bottom picture perfect in middle of screen; colors seperating in corners convergrence is perfect


Projection sets have two very common problems outlined below.

The first common problem is convergence

These sets need to have all three colors - RED - BLUE - GREEN - lined up correctly on the screen in order for the picture to look normal. This is called convergence.

When its out of alignment the video will look 3-D, wavy, distorted, etc. The TV can also shut down when the convergence starts to fail.

Most of the time you just need to adjust your convergence in the menu. If you cannot adjust it in the menu - then your convergence is broken and needs to be repaired.

Convergence problems are very common on all Projection TV sets including Sony, Samsung,JVC,Philip Magnavox,Panasonic,Akai,Pioneer, Hitachi,Mitsubishi,Zenith, RCA and others.


You can more info and a DIY convergenece repair kit with instructions from TV Repair Kits using the link at the end of this article.

Here are some of the most common problems with these sets...

*Screen Looks 3-D
*Colors wont align
*Screen may look distorted or warped or bowed
*No Audio/Video - TV Shuts down - May also make a constant chirping sound

Problem #2 - Another common problem is dull or washed out video.

Your set may have one or more of the following symptoms....

*Dull looking picture
*White looking picture
*Halos around objects
*Red/Orange looking picture

bb0cf99.pngSOLUTION

You can see some more examples and find a fix using this link on Fixya

http://www.fixya.com/support/r2861467-solution_video_looking_whiteish_dull

Nov 01, 2009 | Mitsubishi WS-55809 55" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Mitsubishi WS65807


The Color Signal on this Model Series travels across three boards before being sent to the CRTs. The 3DYC Board, Signal Board and the Terminal Board. Most likely, the 3DYC Board or the Signal Board is causing the problem. I have had intermittent solder connections on the 3DYC Board to cause no color problems. This Board plugs in and is located on the left front of the Signal Board as you look from the rear of the chassis. If you feel you are not up to the task to work on the set, call a Mitsubishi professional. To find one, call Mitsubishi at 1800-332-2119.
I hope this helps,
Skyassoc

Jul 24, 2009 | Mitsubishi WS-65807 65" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Three color dots


check out self test first, look at threads here or ctechnicians.com

Dec 31, 2007 | Mitsubishi WS-55511 55" Rear Projection...

1 Answer

Remove screen?


I watched the set up guys install the screen on my WS-73907. They poped it in with great difficulty which made me think it would be difficult to get back out.

Sep 07, 2006 | Mitsubishi WS-65807 65" Rear Projection...

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