It was squeaking really bad - so I bought an overhaul kit. Replaced main bearing, idler pulley, belt, drum glides, lower felt seal and upper felt seal. Dryer will spin and lock up between the glides and felt seals. it just froze so bad it actually melted some of the seal to the glide. I assume too much friction. Parts are correct parts. Need some help!!! Thanks!!
You may have not replaced the bearings or some other part correctly? did you check the rollers? are they positioned and turning correctly? is there still a screeching sound? I would suggest removing the cabinet, jumper the door switch and run it without the belt and drum connected? check to see if the motor is even turning or seizing? is there a humming sound? a winding sound? your motor may be bad?
SOURCE: GLER642AS0 drum upper glide makes drum too tight
well you could .kenmore /whirlpool dryers only have a fat felt seal for the drum to ride on,but then the drum it's self is lined with a plastic ring.i have put many of those glide kits on a Frigidaire dryer.the drum goes over the glides,it can be tricky ..you can also have someone open the door while you try to work the glides into place with your hand from the inside.if you have any other questions please email thru fix ya. God bless ,tom
SOURCE: Model #GLEQ2152ES1 - clothes were
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly. I note you have freed the drum after felt replacement and now have what seems to be a heating problem. Lets start with something simple.
1. Go to the main CB panel and turn off the CB by pushing hard to OFF (resets CB) then back to ON. Test for heating.
NO heat..
2. Inspect the dryer power connection terminal block connection for any signs of being hot or broken wires
3. Test continuity of the High limit thermostat on the upper RH side of the element item 33 this link:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5150159&diagram_id=1239258#d1239258
Detailed view here:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=2131477
This thermostat should have continuity at 260 F and below.
Wiring diagram is here: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/frame_diagram.aspx?diagram_id=1239262&pkw_=basket&model_id=5150159&NewWindow=1
4. Check the thermistor on the front of the blower housing for resistance. Item 15 / F15 this link: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5150159&diagram_id=1239261#d1239261 The resistance will vary with temperature but should read resistance. Detailed view:
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3866842
5. Read continuity of the heating element across the 2 wires of the element. You may have to disconnect one wire to get a proper reading.
6. The motor terminals W1 and W2 are closed only with the motor running. For testing continunity of the circuit you can jumper W1 to W1 with NO POWER applied. Make sure to remove the jumper or your dryer could heat without the motor running.
7. There is a heat control relay on the main control board that controls power to the element. Power to gound has to be tested with the dryer running.
That is pretty much it. Let me know if you need more assistance.
Thanks for choosing FixYa.
Kelly
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Turns out --- the company gave me the wrong upper seal - So I went and got the correct one - and problem solved!
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