LG under cabinet microwave (LMV2073ST) overheated. Now no power to unit.

follow this steps and fix it. God bless you

No Lights or Power, Unit seems Dead First check is the main fuse of the unit. On countertop units, you will need to take the shell off. The fuse will be close to where the cord comes through into the unit. OTR units, this main fuse is usually behind the control panel or possibly behind the vent. Usually the fuse is obvious if blown, otherwise test with an OHM meter, if open, replace fuse.

Some brands will also have a thermal cut-off fuse in the incoming voltage line to the control board. Older Maytags and Samsungs have this fuse in it. This thermostat looking fuse is usually above the oven cavity somewhere under the outside shell. Sometimes you can get to it through the vent of OTR models. Test with an OHM meter, replace if open.

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
No Lights or Power, Unit seems Dead First check is the main fuse of the unit. On countertop units, you will need to take the shell off. The fuse will be close to where the cord comes through into the unit. OTR units, this main fuse is usually behind the control panel or possibly behind the vent. Usually the fuse is obvious if blown, otherwise test with an OHM meter, if open, replace fuse.
Some brands will also have a thermal cut-off fuse in the incoming voltage line to the control board. Older Maytags and Samsungs have this fuse in it. This thermostat looking fuse is usually above the oven cavity somewhere under the outside shell. Sometimes you can get to it through the vent of OTR models. Test with an OHM meter, replace if open.

see the steps and eliminate short circuit use the common sense: God bless you
No Lights or Power, Unit seems Dead First check is the main fuse of the unit. On countertop units, you will need to take the shell off. The fuse will be close to where the cord comes through into the unit. OTR units, this main fuse is usually behind the control panel or possibly behind the vent. Usually the fuse is obvious if blown, otherwise test with an OHM meter, if open, replace fuse.
Some brands will also have a thermal cut-off fuse in the incoming voltage line to the control board. Older Maytags and Samsungs have this fuse in it. This thermostat looking fuse is usually above the oven cavity somewhere under the outside shell. Sometimes you can get to it through the vent of OTR models. Test with an OHM meter, replace if open.

However if after replace the fuse the problem remain, you must test: a) power cord for short b) outlet wall for ground improperly c) HV transformer faulty d) Rectifier HV faulty e) Magnetron faulty. d) power supply faulty replace or repair filter diode, resistor. etc Or call some experimented service tech for troubleshooting.

All Microwave ovens have a main fuse that is not accessible while the unit is mounted under a cabinet. Drop MW oven and replace the main fuse.

There is a main fuse in the microwave oven, "white body with silver ends" located near the high voltage capacitor. Unplug unit take top off and allow 30 seconds to dis-charge. Keep in mind the door switch becomes defective and often blows the fuse.

There is a main fuse in the microwave oven, it is located under the keypad near the high voltage capacitor "silver and rectangular in shape" make sure unit is unplugged and dis-charge the high voltage capacitor for safety. I find the reason in most cases, that the fuse will blow if there is a defective door switch.

Take the cover off...comes apart many different ways on various models. Once cover is removed look for blown fuses...should be one on the main input near the power cord. May be additional fuses at the transmitter. Could also be as simple as removing input power for 15 minutes and then reconnecting; I recommend you try this step first.

There are two thermal fuses.

One is located on the magnetron and another one is located on top of the left side of the cavity under the air duct. The microwave has to be removed from the cabinet to access the second one.




The problem turned out to be a 20 amp fuse that I was able to replace and the unit is working fine. Sometimes a blind squirrel finds nuts.

Have you checked the 10 amp internal fuse. It is located where the pwer lead enters underneath the cover