I have a slow burning flame that gets very hight with sooty windows. I have cleaned the burn pot and exhaust pipe.Is there holes inside the burn chamber that may need cleaned? I know its not getting enough air or something.Its a new unit, only been using it since October early November.

hears trouble shooting guide ---------------https://www.manualslib.com/manual/851964/Monitor-M441.html?page=26

I suspect that it is over fuelling and the cat converter is blocking the exhaust
check ignition timing as it is probably too far retarded which causes later spark in relation to the valve timing position where the exhaust valve is opening allowing burning fuel into the exhaust manifold,

i presume it is a 2 stroke ,i have done it by removing exhaust and getting a blowtorch oxyaceteline and pointing flame into exhaust neck to start burning the carbon out for about 30 seconds and then straight away blowing into the same end of pipe you have heated up with compressed air to feed the burn,MAKE SURE FLAME TORCH IS SWITCHED OFF )then keep compressed air nozzle blowing trough the pipe and you can see how the burn runs along the inside of the pipe as the carbon burns out ,it takes about 4mins to burn all the way along inside of pipe <be warned it is a messy smokey job <if you are not technically skilled id suggest removing your pipe and assking an exhaust shop to assist you to do it

Sounds like the front burner gas jet holes are either blocked in places or the gas regulation (air/gas) mix to that burner needs adjusting. Try removing the hub where the gas burns from and cleaning each hole with something like a paperclip and then blowing through it to expel any particals.

this could have to do with the main gas feeds to the ceramic panels . they might be obstructed with a spider web or dirt,foriegn material etc.
easiest fix is to take a air compresser with a blow gun tip and blow out ant foriegn material or spider webs from the gas feed pipes to
the ceramic burners.
the gas feed pipes have large air induction holes that a small blow gun can fit its nozzle into to blow out the gas feed pipes without
having to disassemble them.
that is a big time & work saver.
I took my gas feed lines to the ceramic burners all apart, only to get out a spider web that i could have blown out with compressed air and saved myself 2 hours work.

anything inside the gas feed pipes to the ceramic burners will result in dark spots or the panels not staying lite, irratic burning
or no burning at all.
the gas needs to be able to get through unimpeded at proper flow and proper pressure for proper burning.
a spider web will mess up proper gas flow. some gas, but not enough gas will get through and ceramic wont burn well and might not hold a flame.


clean out the foriegn material from the ceramic gas feed lines.


Rare posibility,if the gas behind the ceramic element escapes around the edges of the ceramic, through a bad seal of the gasket,
this also will stop the ceramic from burning well.


mr heater is not made for easy diaassembly so try not to do more work than you have to.


use compressed air rather than taking mr heater all apart to clean out a gas feed pipe.

change your thermo couple if the pilot light will not stay lit


Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/sean_54c3a3dc48a7773c

Hello dishmama1, is this a sealed burner cooktop? If so then remove the cap and make sure all the holes are clean. Restricted burner holes can cause and issue with the flame. Also with it off make sure the area where it sits is clean and the cap sits flat. Hope this helps

My Laser 73 does the same thing at least once, and sometimes twice, a year. The EE6 code is what the onboard computer gives when it THINKS the flame has gone out. Now, it COULD be that all that is wrong is you are out of fuel, OR you have water in the fuel. But....the more likely scenerio, (and what has always gone wrong with mine) is a common problem in the flame pot:
There is a stainless steel baffle near the bottom of the flame pot. (about 2 inches off the bottem). This baffle is used to "form the flame", cause it to curl up around the inside edges of the pot, where the air intake holes are, to create a clean-burning, high-efficiency blue flame. Over time, this baffle becomes horribly warped and distorted from the intense heat. (an engineering design screwup, IMO) (but you'll never get them to admit it) This warping of the baffle, in turn, causes the flame itself to become uneven, and to also begin burning poorly, with soot deposits. One of the first hints this is happening is lots of YELLOW flame, instead of the usual blue. When this happens, the flame SENSOR becomes sooted and dirty, and no longer is able to sense the flame. It tells the computer to shut down, because it thinks there is no flame, hence the "EE6" code. This sensor is simply a stainless steel rod poking into the flame pot. It's on the front of the pot, two screw fastening, and has a single wire attached to it, which runs to the computer. It is used to detect IONS (minute current) running from the flame front to the pot itself. (ground) And....(as if all this is not enough), the gaskets around the middle section of the flame pot, and at the top, usually develop cracks and leaks.
Cleaning the sensor (with steel wool) usually isn't enough to fix this problem. You will likely have to replace both of the fire-pot gaskets, the flame pot baffle, and also the burner "mat". (a round, flat, fiberglass mat glued to the bottem of the flame pot. Vacuum out all the dirt and soot. The baffle "unscrews" with about a quarter-twist CCW. (lift upwards on it, while turning CCW) Use fire-proof sealer on the new gaskets. Plan on all day taking it apart, and back together again. (a time consuming job...no fun) Good luck!

the toyostove is basically a glorified monitor heater.  its components are a combustion blower, an air circulator fan, a flame pot, a flat wick or burner mat, a solenoid pump, an ignition element, double  walled intake, exhaust pipe.   the combustion blower is a glorified vacuum cleaner motor. it sucks in cool air and channels it to the combustion chamber along the sides (round cylinder) kero enters on the burner mat where it ignites. the solenoid pump keeps adding kero until the flame detector spots or heats up. air flow to the pot is regulated by a damper in the combustion air blower line. if the "O" ring in the damper is missing or hardened it will not regulate the air flow which is necessary for combustion.  replace this "O" ring should take care of your problem.