Brake pull when applyed

Could be air in system and right side not applying brakes. Also the internal rubber in brake line where solid metal line attaches to can deteriorate and form a blockage for brake fluid to not reach caliper on right side.

You didn't mention changing flex hose. Would advise to do at least fronts and try.

its possible it could be a wheel hub bearing,but it could be a faulty brake caliper or a brake hose,if it pulls when the brake is applied then you have a brake issue

Assuming that the Tires for both Left and Right are:
1. Equal Sizes.
2. Both Properly Inflated - this is a common problem.
3. Have equal wear on them. Example: If the Left Tire is balding on the outside and the Right Tire is balding on the inside, this too is definite sign of an aligment issue; and will cause unequal braking.
Pulling left (or right) during a hard brake might actual mean your Wheel Alignment is way off. When you get one, get a 4-wheel and not just a 2-wheel alignment.
Also: you thought the right thing, but the Left Caliper or Left Brake Hose might also be bad (sticking) causing the left side to brake "harder" then the right side.
You can also Bleed the entire System (all four wheels) starting at the Right Rear, then Left Rear, then Front Right, followed by the Left Front.
Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information or questions. Feel free to contact me at FixYa.com!

you mean parking brake cable? loosen parking brake cables put drums on , and adjust shoes till they lightly drag, now apply brakes a few times and check the adjustment again, if all ok, now adjust park brake cables, you want to adjust so park pedal goes 5-8 clicks till the wheels are "locked up" and the wheels spin free with the park brake off

Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.

Short shoe goes towards front. Also: check for any contamination on shoes or hardware from either axle seal or wheel cyls. Any contamination will make vehicle pull when brake applied. Technically, if contaminated shoes need replacement but if not heavy, on new shoes I usually just give a light sanding on friction material and the remainder will usually burn off.

possibly bad brake hose or twisted/kinked causing pull. wobble may be bad/worn axle shaft on right side.some right axles are 2 or3 piece design.carrier support bolts maybe missing but more likely joint is worn. look for boots that have split or cracked&leaked grease.

Sounds like it was pulling before the brake job...if so the only thing you didn't replace was the rotors, I assume you turned them? and did you see hard spots on the rotor? discolored area that didn't cut the same......switch the rotors left to right and see if the problem moves or just replace them if they've been cut twice.

Probably a restriction in the brake line from the master cylinder to the wheel.

Most of the time brake hoses do this (collapsed hose or hose inner liner) but the restriction could be anywhere from the point your front brake pressure divides to both wheels to the caliper of the wheel. The problem is not the caliper itself because the bleeder is able to relieve the pressure.