Five conductors are needed to wire 8663rp does that mean five wires is needed to wire fan?

Question edited for full name of maker.
This appears to be an extractor fan rather than a washing machine, so I moved it to a Broan Nutone category.

videos and installation manual, and wiring.

Installation work and electrical wiring must be done by a qualified person(s) in accordance with all applicable codes and standards, including fire-rated construction codes and standards.

https://www.broan-nutone.com/getmedia/b540f9dc-1536-463e-915e-e1f1a88ee4d5/Installation-Guide-765HL.pdf?ext=.pdf

https://www.google.com/search?q=nutone+765hl+installation

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Hi John,

I'm an electrician and can help you with this question.

The *best* way to plan for this fixture is to install a "3-wire" cable (romex, bx, etc.) designated as "14-3" where "14" is the size of the conductors and "3" is the number of insulated conductors. A "three wire" cable consists of 3 insulated conductors (white, black & red) and an uninsulated or bare conductor. Sometimes, you may find that the cable has 4 insulated conductors and instead of a bare conductor it will be covered with green or green with a yellow stripe insulation. This 4th wire is the ground wire (insulated or not). Either type of cable is acceptable for use.

By installing a 3 wire cable, you will not be required to use a "special switch" or an "RF switch" which are often much more expensive to purchase and more involved to install. You can use two independent switches, consisting of a variable dimmer for the light and a speed controller for the fan, simple "snap" or "toggle" switches or any combination of both if you install into a "2 ganged box". If you opt to install a single gang box, your switches will be needed to be on a single strap (often called duplex switches) and your choces for control will become limited - and likely more expensive, too.

If you run a 3 wire cable, you can install your choice of switches, if you install only a 2 wire cable, you will be forced to use special switches or a standard switch and a pull chain on the fixture (this option is only available to you if there is a constant power source at the fixture). It will cost a little more for the 3 wire cable, but it will provide the most flexibility when selecting fans / switches.

I hope this was helpful & good luck!

yes there should be 3 wires coming from light one for light one for fan and one for night light just dont hook up night light wire should work fine tape or cape the wire you dont want to use. good luck

I suggtes recheck your wires, could use this wiring guide (click image for zoom)... support/t9590572-hunter_fan

Many times, a simple three speed fan motor has one wire for each speed - and a "common" wire, for a total of 4 wires. The common wire is connected to one of the wires of the 2 conductor cord that plugs into the wall outlet. Each of the other three wires from the motor is connected to a separate terminal of a a four position switch (Off, Low, Medium and High speed).

The other wire from the 2 conductor cord goes to the "shunt terminal" (or common terminal) of the switch. The switch directs the power to flow from the shunt terminal to either the off position or the low, medium or high speed terminals - which power the fan motor to run at the associated speed.

What you have done was connect the wire that came off to another wire. This means that the power from the 2 conductor cord is permanently connected to one of the speed terminals - and wires of the motor. You need to unplug the fan and remove the wire that you connected. Locate the shunt terminal of the switch - it should be the one without a wire on it. Reassemble and try again.

Be careful doing this work - I hope this helped!

That's correct, you need to add a switch on your wall, so you'll have one switch for the light and one for the fan, and instead of having a black and white wire going from the wall switch box to the fan box you will run 3 wire cable with a black, red and white wire. Black and red will control your fan and light while white will be your neutral. Just remember to separate the wires up in the fan box so your light and fan are controlled separately.

Hello,

If it is a Florescent light, it may just need replacement. However, if it is a filament light, if it flickers on/off when the fan is active, there could be a wiring problem. But I doubt that...lOL :) It may just need a replacement starter sometimes if its a florescent, the tiny battery like thing that hangs a bit out :)

I assume that you mean 1500 Watts ?

which is 6.25 amps UK or 13.6 amps US

1.5mm UK 14 Gauge US

The National Electrical Code [NEC] requires their own cable sizing for premises wiring. Refer to the NEC rules to determine building wiring, as this page relates to electronic equipment wiring. For reference, the ampacity of copper wire at 300C for common wire sizes
14 AWG may carry a maximum of 20 Amps in free air, or 15 Amps as part of a 3 conductor cable.
12 AWG may carry a maximum of 25 Amps in free air, or 20 Amps as part of a 3 conductor cable.
10 AWG may carry a maximum of 40 Amps in free air, or 30 Amps as part of a 3 conductor cable.
8 AWG may carry a maximum of 70 Amps in free air, or 50 Amps as part of a 3 conductor cable.

Hi,

Either the plug came out, the receptacle wiring came loose or the bulb is out,,,

http://www.fixya.com/support/r6871896-broan_bathroom_fan_care_cleaning

heatman101

The black and white in the fan box are the main power and neutral for normal (low speed) of the fan. The two reds are the signal wires. It is basically a switch loop. You will actually need a total of 4 conductors (plus a ground) in order to run the high and low speed of the fan. The four conductors consist of 1) power from one switch to power up the fan, 2) neutral, 3) signal going to second switch, 4) signal going back to fan from second switch in order to run high speed. Without four conductors you can still run the high speed only by tying the two red wires in the fan together. This would be like always having the second swith in the on position. Hope this helps.