Vacuumed around fan and compressor area
Hello Fred;
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
I have a top freezer because they are the most reliable and least expensive to repair.
It sounds like one of several problems:
Unplug your unit. Remove the back panel of your freezer. You may
1.) Frozen drain - Your unit will go through a defrost cycle every 8-10 hours. When this occurs, your unit will shut down for 20-30 minutes and your defrost heater will turn on. Everything will shut down except for your lights. Then your unit turns back on.
There is a drain hole behind your freezer back wall. This is easily unplugged with warm water. If the drain hole is plugged up with ice your cooling coil will become blocked up. This may also prevent your cooling coil fan from running.
2.) Cooling fan is starting to go - If your cooling coils are not plugged up and ice is not restricting your cooling coil fan, then perhaps your fan is starting to go. This is a easy replacement. Lets check - You need a multi-meter to do this. You can purchase one for about $25.00 at Lowes or Home Depot. This is a good thing to have. It will save you a lot of money with repair on all of your appliances.
Set the multi-meter to the lowest Ohms (Omega Symbol) With your unit unplugged, You have three wires to the motor. Disconnect them all. The small one is a ground wired, the other 2 are power wires. Put one meter lead on the one motor contactor and the other lead on the other contactor. You should get a reading of "0" Ohms if the motor is good. Anything else the motor the motor is bad.
There is a temperature sensor on the upper right hand side of your cooling coil. If the back of this round 3/8" diameter sensor has exploded, them you need a new sensor.
Give me a model number on your fresh food section side wall near the top and I can be more specific. Call be @ 443-306-1362 and we can take it from there.
Peter
Glen Burnie, Maryland, USA
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