At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I hope another expert has answered but I will make a few suggestions. In general you have wear in places where the valve and lifters meet the camshaft lobes. The slight machining of the valve seats in the heads can produce a few millimeters difference in where the valve stem now sits.
With hydraulic lifters there is suppose to be a range of operation which takes up any slack between parts like the valve stems. With non-hydraulic or solid lifters clearance is either adjusted with shims or with screw type adjustments. You may not even have lifters as some engines have camshafts that directly touch the valve stems.
Common practice is to keep worn parts mated to each other. You would keep valve 1 in place to ride on camshaft lobe 1. You would not want to mix say valve 3 into position of cam lobe 1. The two surfaces have different wear patterns.
Also valve spring tension is to be measured on each valve after grinding or valve replacement. Springs are either replaced or shimmed to book specs. Even motor oil can affect sound levels.
Sometimes adjustments can be made after a break-in period. It is hard to place blame without completely stripping the engine and measuring each part. You are kind of at the Mercy of the original repair facility or you may have another place listen to your motor and see if they think it is unusually noisy.
You mean "do I use solid lifters or hydraulic lifters with this cam?"
Call the shop that sold it to you and ask them, or type Wolverine camshaft into the search engine of your computer and when you get a dealer or the factory , ask them.
All BBC # 7114 cranks were crossdrilled & tufftrided from the factory & only installed in original L/88 & ZL/1 427 engines.All GM BBC #6223 cranks that were factory crossdrilled are tufftrided, whether 396 or 427, they came in SPEC HI PERF solid lifter engines only from the factory. I believe the 6223 crank was primarily used for 396 applications and has a 3/4" thick front counterweight. If the crank is a dull gray color and the mains have been cross drilled (a hole from one side of the main to the other), it would have been used in high performance solid lifter applications. Cranks used in 427 engines use a thicker (7/8") front counterweight to balance the heavier pistons and are forging #71XX. On a non cross drilled crank, the #1 and #5 mains will have only one hole, cross drilled versions will have two.
This is all the info I could find at the moment, but I will ask a friend of mine who is a mechanic at the Chevy dealer here and maybe I can help out further. If I find any more info on this, I will post back immediately following. I hope this will help in the meantime.
If you have hydraulic lifters(tappets) then you turn the adjusting screw 1/4 turn past the point where there is no noise from the rocker arm. If you have solid lifters, then you'll have to get the cold clearance spec for that engine and adjust accordingly.
Cut/machine them from a hardenable billet and make sure to provide oiling to the valve train to accomodate the changes to the oiling gallery dynamics with the switch. Plus you need to have adjustability in the valve train to maintain safe operating clearances of the valve train.
Depending on the engine, solid lifters may already be available from various manufacturers who produce solid lifter racing cams. Like Melling, Crane, Crower, etc.
Some engines such as the old flathead V8 Fords were solid lifter the entire time.
If the engine is not apart, there isn't any real way to tell but if you remove a valve cover, on a solid lifter cam, when the engine is turned, there should be one time, when the lifter is on the heel of the cam lobe a bit past the time when the valve you are watching has closed, that you should have about 16 thousandths or more clearance between the rocker and the valve stem (called lash) A hydraulic lifter is always in contact with no gap.(though you may get a false reading if a lifter is bleeding down) if the engine is apart enough to see the top of the lifters, a hydraulic lifter has a wire clip in the top that holds the hydraulic piston inside from popping out too far. A solid lifter does not have a clip because it dosen't need one (that's why it's solid) Unfortunately, to know WHICH cam you have, you'd need to remove it as the manufacturer and grind numbers are usually stamped on the back end. (generally 16thousandths lash on intakes and 18 thousandths on exhaust will put you in the "ball-park" though).
×