- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
This is a fault solution
which can be checked and corrected by you assuming that there is no component
failure. There is a high possibility that the components over a period of
heating and cooling, tend to bring on a problem of dry soldering. So my advice
is to check the set for some loose joints that have played on to give you these
erratic shut downs or poor performance. The best way to check for loose
connections is to tap lightly when the set is powered on, if there is change
while tapping then it seems that there are DRY solder joints. Remove main plug,
the covers - with caution of high voltage, check for dry joints, and use a good
soldering iron to solder all suspected points. Sometimes the fault occurs when
the set warms up; if so you can simulate the heat using a hair dryer on the
suspected areas, try with the power supply, distribution, Processor controller,
driver controllers on the A/V related sections. Also the use a FREEZE-IT spray
can simulate the components to cool and show up the fault. It can also be
related to WEAK ELECTROLYTIC capacitors as the value can reduce in time.
This will either be a purity fault or as this is an old TV the tube (CRT) will be at fault which would not be worth spending money on. You would need to call a service engineer to check if it is a purity fault, but as this is a quick an easy repair it should only cost a call out charge. You would not be able to fix this yourself as a special tool (de-gauss coil) is required.
I tried the DVD payer and the scart lead on another TV and so discovered that it is the AV2 socket that is faulty. I am obtaining a quote for repair, in the meantime I can connect with the little cololoured leads instead of the scart.
Found the correct code for my TV & Sky remote... I searched a fair bit more on google for... "WS6680SIL/C7 code" and found... http://www.sjstv.co.uk/skycodelistNEW.html which the correct code for my Bush TV - 0742. Others you may want to try are Bush 0157 246, 263, 377, 037, 064, 065, 310,300,383, 399, 391, 402, 339. or Beko 0125 514, 398. Further, Alba Group are the firm whom own Bush brand amongst others. Google Alba Group to get their site and links to Bush sites.
May be that the colour Amp is at fault or the tube is busy failing. Commonly it would be the colour Amp (Dry joints or faulty drivers). The Green is dead. I have had cases where power surge can magnetise the tube to such an extend that the whole picture will show one colour. In your case I doubt it very much. Good Luck,JUS004
this symptom is characterised by the loss of one or two primary colours. this symptom can be classified into three cases: 1) loss of red colour, 2) loss of colour blue,3) loss of green color. this symptom may be caused by a trouble in the colour demodulator, in the color amplifier or in the colour subtraction amplifier circuit. in your case loss of blue colour. this is a very complicated problem that you need some special test equipment like oscilloscope and color pattern generator in order to trace the signal. tune the receiver to a color broadcast station(a colour bar generator can be used to transmit a colour signal to the set). check the Z-axis demodulator, z-axis amplifier and the B-Y output circuit for the chroma signal. observe the signal process with an oscilloscope. if the color signal is not present use a VOM to locate the defective component in any of the above circuits. check the transistors and the resistors in the collector circuit. good luck!