Often times you will have problems with the gas thermostat and not necessarily with the safety valve. Once you have lit the pilot light, turn the oven knob to any temperature. The pilot light should get bigger in size of flame. If not, the thermostat that controls the oven must be replaced. If the pilot light does get bigger, but the stove does not ignite, it is the safety valve.
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Most pilot flames for gas burners are controlled by a safety valve. This model has a pilot safety valve. The safety valves function is simple, if the flame goes out for whatever reason the vale shuts the gas flow to the pilot light. The safety valve is controlled by a device that sits right next to the pilot (small cylindrec tube ( thermopile) that senses the pilot flame either by heat or dc current. To ignite the pilot light you have to manually hold down pilot light button until the the thermopile is hot enough (usually 5 to 20 secs), after that time, the thermopile will allow the safety valve to open. Check to see that the pilot's flame is making contact with the thermopile. If it is not, the pilot flame will require cleaning and or adjustment. If it is making contact, the you might need to replace the safety valve and the thermopile.
Probably the safety valve. This unit broils and bakes off the same gas burner. A spark ignitor lights the pilot and this save gas because no standing pilot is needed. It takes a few minutes for the thermocouple bimetal combo to release the gas. When the temp gets to the desired rate then the bulb on the oven control closes off the flow of gas. To recap: The flow of gas comes from a regulator along a rail which supplys the gas to the top burners and the oven control. older models had pilot light tubing going down to the oven and to the top burners. This newer style uses a spark module to light off the top burners and the oven. So when yall turn the the oven on the spark ignitor lights the pilot first and then after the mercury bulf thermocouple heats up the bimetal inside the valve opens allowing gas to flow out to the pilot and ignite the gas burner. the temp rises and the mercury bulb oven control expands closing off the flow but not the gas safety valve. I would suspect the safety valve on this one.
On standing pilot ovens the maker uses a safety device to kill the gas in case the pilot blows out. As long as the pilot is lit the gas safety magnet hold the gas flap open inside the safety valve.To save energy the pilot has 2 flames. The standby pilot keeps the cooper/nickel probe/sensor warm so the oven will light faster, the 2nd pilot is much larger, only appears when the oven control is turned on and this is what opens that valve. So when you turn the oven knob on the gas leaves the control and goes downtown to burner land. If that pilot is lit and that slow opening flap inside that valve is open, then the gas will enter the burner tube and ignite when it hits the pilot. Pretty slick ain't it? So what can go wrong? With age the flap inside the safety valve will wear out, get weak, work a little, then take forever to light and eventually just goes bye bye. When you get ready to replace the valve it ain't gonna be adjusted exactamundo, you gotta tweak it. To do so after bubble testing for leaks and lighting the pilot you turn it on and observe the flames. It needs to be not more than half way up the flame spreader. If it is to small of a flame it will take forever to bake even a pie shell, if it is too much their could be burned bottom and in some cases fire hazards. OOPs.
There is no pilot. The oven has an electric ignitor to light the flame. This ignitor is very common repair.
You can remove the floor panel inside the oven and start the oven. Watch to see if the ignitor glows. Even if the ignitor glows, it should ignite the flame with in 30 seconds. They get weak and don't pull enough amps to open the gas valve.
I hope this helps you. please let me know if I can assist you further.
Hi, The ignitor is getting weak and will not open the gas valve. Replace the ignitor and you will be back in business. This is a very common problem with the gas ovens. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
Hi, There is a glow igniter that has to glow and open the gas valve to ignite the flame. Are you seeing any glow below the floor of the oven? Remove the floor on=f the oven and you will see the igniter. If you have a voltage meter, You can remove the ignitor from the manifold ans test it. Put your meter leads into the connection and turn the oven on, (ONLY long enough to see if you have 120V. If there is voltage, replace the igniter. They can still glow but be bad. The igniter gets weak and will not open the gas valve. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
REmove bottom panel from stove. shut gas off for at LEAST 5 min. Longer is better. Then placel open flame above gas nozzle, slowly turn to ignite posiiton. After it is lit, wait 30 seconds and turn to on positon. If by chance this model doens't have a knob for this, then turn gas valve off for 5 min, let fumes evaporate, light flame, place over nozzle, turn gas on.replace bottom oven panel slowly.
the pilot light is there for 2 purposes. number 1 to light the burner and number 2 to heat up the thermocouple, thermocouple is a wire that the flame from pilot suppose to surround by fire. if the pilot is to low it will not reach the thermocouple. you can take the gas line that supplies gas to the pilot and clean it with a safety pin or a small needle. you can test the thermocouple by heating it up with a blow torch on low heat, get it red hot and then turned on the oven. if the oven works clean the pilot, if the oven do not work, replace the thermocouple if separate from safety valve. if thermocouple is part of it replace the safety valve.
Part of the problem was my own ignorance about this particular Kenmore gas oven. It doesn't even have a pilot light. Instead, there is an electric heating element close to the burner which gets so hot that it ignites the gas. It seems that the heating element also doubles as a temperature sensor, so that it opens the gas valve only when the heating element is hot enough to ignite the gas. This heating element, called the "ignitor", no longer gets hot in my oven even though there is 120VAC applied to it when the oven knob is turned on. Therefore, the ignitor is defective. I ordered a new one on-line from "Appliance Parts of America" for $31.50 plus shipping, and this should fix the problem. If it does NOT, I'll add to this post.
According to the model number you supplied it looks like your oven use a glow bar ignitor not a pilot light. In that case there is no place to hold a fire. what happens with these when you turn the oven on 120 volts goes to the ignitor causing it to heat up ,the amp draw across the ignitor causes the gas safety valve to open, and then lights the gas. So if you turn your oven on you should see a bright red glow if not probably the the ignitor, to check it you would have to verify you actually have power going to it. If the ignitor glows but the gas valve does not open you will still need to replace the ignitor has to pull about 3.2 amps across ignitor to open safety valve. Your broil burner works the same way. And most of the ovens the floor of the oven comes out to allow easier acess to the ignitor. also if you have to change the ignitor put just a dab of dish detergent on the screws to help from stripping them