My Honeywell smartvalve stop opening the gas valve, inducer motor started, glow and pilot happen, just no fire...I replaced said smartvalve and upon installation, the inducer motor wouldnt run, no glo

This is a down flow unit. There is no pressure valve on this unit. Here is all the parts on this unit.
1. Manual - reset, when used.
2. Blower and blower motor
3. Relief box also known as a exhaust flue.
4. Gas valve control knob or electric switch, ON/OFF
5. Gas Valve
6. Gas burner
7. Ratting plate
8. Blower door safety switch
9. Blocked vent safeguard tube and switch
10. Gas Manifold
11. Manual limit switch (2)
12.Hot surface ignitor
13. Flame sensor
14. Inducer blower motor
15. Control board with relays and transformer.
That is all the parts. The first thing the heater gets a call from the thermostat to the control board marked W. The board sends 24v to the inducer fan relay which makes and causes the inducer fan to come on now there is a small tube that runs from the inducer fan box to a switch when the switch makes it sends power to the board which proves you have cleared the exhaust flue then the flat surface ignitor starts to glow and then gas valve opens and fires. now if this tube is stopped up the heater will not fire and will lock the unit out. Also if the flue is stopped up with trash it will do the same thing. If you are not familiar with gas heating units you should call a service company out and check out the system there is a lot of things that need to be checked out every heating season as to keep you and your family safe.

Smartvalves are tricky and a certain sequence must happen. Without going into this in depth, try this:
Install new smartvalve
Set thermostat to the off position
Kill the power to the unit
Restore power to the unit
Turn the heat on with the thermostat
In this order!

This is the proper cycle of a furnace and what should happen.

Inducer motor kicks on, it runs for a little bit, about 3-5 seconds, then you should see a bright yellow glow, this is the igniter, shortly after, you should hear a click and the gas should start to flow, almost immediately it turns to a blue flame. Then your igniter should turn off and the blower motor start up.

If the pilot turns on and the gas ignites, then shortly after the unit shuts off, chances are this is your blower motor. It is not starting up, then the heat limit is reached in your unit and the safety shuts it off.

Sounds like a faulty board. shut the power to the furnace off for a minute then turn it back on. Make a call for heat at the thermostat. The inducer should start and close contacts on a pressure switch . Once pressure switch closes the hot surface ignitor should glow red. Then the gas valve will open when the gas valve opens you should get fire till the stat is satisfied. If your concerned it is the jump out r to w on the board this will eliminate the stat. If you to reset the rollout switchs 3 timesyou're getting flame rollout and you either have a cracked heat exchanger or blockage in the exhaust piping or a bad inducer motor. Keep me posted with what you find!

Hi, if you have replaced the control board and pressure switch, you need to check the sequence of operation. Starting with the inducer motor, must start up to pressurize unit box and be sure the pressure switch is closed. Even though you have replaced this switch, it may not have enough pressure to close it due to condensation in hose, a leak and so on. Jump across this switch to see if the pilot will light next. If this unit has a flame roll out switch located by the corner burner, make sure it is not tripped. Sequence of operation is, first your inducer motor will start and vent old gases and build pressure. Pressure switch will make and send signal to ignitor board to start pilot. If you have a HSI pilot, (Hot surface ignition ) it will glow. Next it gets the flame sensor hot enough to send a signal that the pilot is proved back to the board to fire the main gas smart valve with 24 volts. Go through this check as I have layed out. The flame sensor is right along side of the pilot tube and if the metal tip gets dirty, it will not fire. You can clean it with sanding cloth or fine steel wool to clean. If you go through all of these steps and it will not fire after you have made sure you have 24 volts ac at all controls in the sequence I have said, check the main gas valve across terminal C and MV for 24volts. If you have 24volts and it won't open the valve, it is faulty. Check this out for me and let me know. If no 24 volts, you have missed a safety in the sequence.
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C, Heating& Refrigeration Contractor

Dirty flame rod, polish it with a scrub pad.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Check for 24 volts across the gas valve when Ignitor is glowing. If no, bad board. If yes, bad gas valve or blockage.
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Depending upon how long the burners stay on it could be a bad or dirty flame rod, read on.
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

You will need to check for 24 volts AC to the gas valve after the igniter starts sparking or glowing. If you have it but it does not open, bad gas valve and you will need to replace it. If you are not getting 24 volts after it starts glowing or sparking, you have a bad board.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).

Bad or dirty flame rod or burners.

On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.

What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).