No power to the spark plug

bad for coil, have them test for continuity

Disconnect the wires from both ends of the coil. Use an ohm meter to test the resistance of the primary winding in the coils. Put the meter's function switch in OHMS, R X 1. Touch one meter lead to each of the small terminals on the coil. Your meter should read 2-3 ohms. If this is correct, connect the "HOT" wires (the pink ones I think) to the coil. On the other side, take a length of regular wire and strip the insulation from each end. Connect one end of this wire to the empty terminal of the coil. Put an extra set of spark plugs in the spark plug wires and ground them on the engine so that you can see them. Turn the ignition switch on, and MOMENTARILY touch the bare end of the jumper wire to the engine case. When you take the wire away from the engine case, the coil should fire and you should see a spark at the plugs. If no spark or the resistance reads other than between two and three ohms, the coil is bad. If the coil checks good, I'd suspect the pickup in the timer cavity on the right side of the engine.

Thank Steve for this

Is there no power to the coil or no spark???

Disconnect the wires from both ends of the coil. Use an ohm meter to test the resistance of the primary winding in the coils. Put the meter's function switch in OHMS, R X 1. Touch one meter lead to each of the small terminals on the coil. Your meter should read 2-3 ohms. If this is correct, connect the "HOT" wires (the pink ones I think) to the coil. On the other side, take a length of regular wire and strip the insulation from each end. Connect one end of this wire to the empty terminal of the coil. Put an extra set of spark plugs in the spark plug wires and ground them on the engine so that you can see them. Turn the ignition switch on, and MOMENTARILY touch the bare end of the jumper wire to the engine case. When you take the wire away from the engine case, the coil should fire and you should see a spark at the plugs. If no spark or the resistance reads other than between two and three ohms, the coil is bad. If the coil checks good, I'd suspect the pickup in the timer cavity on the right side of the engine.

Thank Steve for this

Invalid test. When plug fires, the wire shoots around 40,000volts. When not firing, there is no current in the wire.
Try switching the misfiring plug wire with another that is firing. Switch them both at the plug and at the coil tower. If that was a bad plug wire, the misfire will now be on the cylinder where you put the suspect wire. This will confirm a bad plugwire.
Good luck.

Disconnect the wires from both ends of the coil. Use an ohm meter to test the resistance of the primary winding in the coils. Put the meter's function switch in OHMS, R X 1. Touch one meter lead to each of the small terminals on the coil. Your meter should read 2-3 ohms. If this is correct, connect the "HOT" wires (the pink ones I think) to the coil. On the other side, take a length of regular wire and strip the insulation from each end. Connect one end of this wire to the empty terminal of the coil. Put an extra set of spark plugs in the spark plug wires and ground them on the engine so that you can see them. Turn the ignition switch on, and MOMENTARILY touch the bare end of the jumper wire to the engine case. When you take the wire away from the engine case,the coil should fire and you should see a spark at the plugs. If no spark or the resistance reads other than between two and three ohms, the coil is bad. If the coil checks good, I'd suspect the pickup in the timer cavity on the right side of the engine.

Good Luck
Steve

Test the primary side of the coil. Disconnect the small wires from both ends of the coil. Then, use a digital volt ohm meter to test the resistance of the coil. Put the meter's function switch in OHMS, R X 1 scale. Touch one meter probe to each one of the terminals on the ends of the coil. The meter should read between 5-6 ohms of resistance. If it does this, reconnect the white wire to the top terminal of the coil. Take a plain piece of wire and strip about an inch of insulation from each end. Connect one end of this wire to the bottom terminal of the coil. Put both spark plug wires in the coil with a spark plug in each wire. Make sure the plugs are grounded to the engine. Turn the ignition switch on and MOMENTARILY touch the wire you connected to the bottom terminal of the coil to the engine and then take it away from the engine. When you take the wire away from the engine ground, you should see a spark at both plugs. If not, the coil is bad. Have you cleaned and checked the gap on your points? Clean the points using a thin piece of stiff paper like a piece of index card with a bit of alcohol on it. Set the gap on the points to 0.020". Make sure the gray wire from the points is connected to the bottom terminal of the coil.

Good Luck
Steve

1. The on/off button on the right switch housing could be off. Turn it on
2. The on/off button could be faulty.Take apart and use test light to see if the switch is working by turning it on and off and see if power crosses the connection with the switch on
3. The ignition switch could be faulty. Test with test light to see if your getting power to you coil
4. The stator provides the power. Use Ohm meter, black to ground(green), and red to white wire, then red to yellow wire. the reading should be the same for the white and yellow wire. example: 288 and 288
5. The signal generator/pulse pick-up, send the signal to the cdi. Use ohm meter , black to one end of the wire and red to the other end of the wire, should read 000. if anything else the wire is broke.
This wire is usually black with a red stripe or red with a black stripe.
6. The cdi sends signal to the coil, to fire on time and advance and retards the fire as the motor revs and decelerates. Can be tested but not fixed, must buy a used or new one.
7. The coil provides the spark. Easiest to put a working coil on and see if it fires, if it does, then your coil is bad and just needs replaced.
8. Make sure if its on the kickstand that it is in neutral. Its a safety switch.
9.Make sure you have a good battery.Most local auto parts stores load test them for free

Yes there is a fuse blow or a circuit breaker block on the bike. It's either under the seat or behind the triangular plate on the left side of the bike. Usually, the ignition circuit in on a different circuit from the lights.

Take a test light or a Volt Ohm meter and check for voltage on the coil. To test the coil, unplug a spark plug wire and insert another spark plug in it. Make sure the plug is grounded to the engine. Turn the ignition switch on and then back off. The spark plug should spark once when you turn the switch off. If not, you either don't have power to the coil, or the coil is bad.

To further test the coil, disconnect all wires from the coil and connect a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) across the coil. Connect one lead from the meter to one of the small primary terminals and the other meter lead to the other primary terminal. Put the meter's function switch in OHMS, R x 1 scale. You should read 2 to 3 ohms, no more or less.

Good Luck
Steve

Test the coil. Using a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter) , check the resistance of the primary winding of your coil. Disconnect the wires from the small wire connections on your coil. Put one meter lead of your meter on each small terminal. It makes no difference which lead go which connector. Put the meter in OHMS< R X 1. You should read 3 to 4 ohms of resistance.

Another way to test the coil is run a power wire straight to one side of the coil. One the other side, connect a straight wire. Turn the power on to the coil and the momentarily ground the stright wire on the other side of the coil. When you take the wire away from ground, you should see a spark at the spark plug.

If your coil test good and you have power on the coil when you turn the switch on, your problem is the sensor plate in the timing cavity or something to do with a security system.

'99 Heritage. I think that was the last year of the Evolution engine in that model. If your plugs won't fire, check for voltage at the coil. If you don't have voltage, check for voltage at the "ignition" circuit breaker. Voltage for this circuit breaker comes straight from the switch. I think the circuit breakers are under the seat.

I have seen the coils go bad. Using an ohm meter, test the resistance of the primary of the coil. Remove the wires from the two small connections of the coil. Put the meter in "R x 1" scale and connect one lead from the meter to one post and the other lead from the meter to the other post. You should read about 3-5 ohms. Any more than that, the coil is bad.

If you do have voltage, it could be your sensor in the timing cover. There is a way to test it but you've got to have a special meter or your readings may not be correct.

If per chance your bike is a Twin Cam equipped bike, the engine has a compression sensor and the plugs will not fire if you take them out of the heads. Leave the plugs in the heads and test for spark using another set of plugs.