Well water pump won't stop running

Bad regulator.

The 34 psi of the pressure tank sounds high, but it depends on what the cut-in pressure is set at in the pump pressure switch. Typically the pressure switch is for 20-40 psi or 30-50 psi. To establish what the pre-charge of tank should be , you need to establish what the pressure switch setting are (i.e 20 - 40 psi , etc.) Run the water and watch the pressure gauge and note at what pressure the pump comes on. The pressure tank needs to be pre charged 2 -4 psi below that cut-in pressure. So if the cut-in pressure is say 30 psi, then the tank needs to be pre charged to 28 psi.
To pre charge the pressure tank, turn the pump off. Drain the pressure tank of water to relieve all pressure in the tank. Then check the pressure of the tank at the air valve. Set the pressure to 2 psi below what the cut-in pressure is.
If you adjust the pressure switch, say from 20-40 to 30-50, you will need to go through the procedure of re adjusting the pressure in the tank. I hope this helps....

The pump pressure switch should be checked to see what the ON-OFF pressure is set at. Typically the pressure switch is set for 20-40 psi, or 30-50 psi. The pressure tank should be purged as well. With the pump OFF, and the tank drained of water, the air valve on the tank should read approximately 2 psi below the "on pressure". So if the system operates at 20-40, the tank should be pre-charged to 18 psi. If water escapes from the air valve, the internal bladder in the tank is ruptured, and the tank needs to be replaced. A tire air gauge is used to measure the pressure in the tank after the water is emptied from the tank.. A tire air pump or a compressor is used to charge the tank. if a compressor is used, be careful not to over-inflate the tank, as this may cuase the bladder to rupture.

Pressure tanks do just that in a water system. They create pressure for water to flow when the water pump is on the off cycle. A manifold is plumbed into the tank from the main line coming from the well. The main water line continues to the house plumbing from the manifold. So it's line from pump to manifold - to tank, and from manifold to main into house. The manifold also has tappings for the pressure gauge and the pressure switch. The pressure tank creates water pressure. The water does not flow through the tank. Pressure tanks also have to be 'tuned' or adjusted to the low end pressure set by the pressure switch. Actually the tank pressure needs to be set 2psi below the low end pressure. Most residential water systems are set to operate between 20 -40, or 30-50 psi, which is set by the pressure switch, which in turn , turns the water pump on and off. So if a system operates between 20 and 40 psi, the pre-charged pressure of the tank should be 18 psi. Pre-charged means the tank is drained of water with the water pump OFF. The tank pressure is then checked adjusted by way of the air valve on top of the tank ( A tire gauge works). Pressure tank mainfolds are a common plumbing part.

You probably need to purge the pressure tank.
Well Pressure Tank Installation Instructions

Pressure tanks lose their Pre Charge pressure and have to be serviced. The well Pump needs to OFF. The Pressure tank needs to be emptied of water. There should be an air valve on the tank. Check the pressure .If this is a Bladder tank and Water comes out of the air valve- then the bladder is broken and the tank needs to be replaced. The Pre Charge pressure is set to 2 psi Below the cut-in pressure set by the pressure switch. If your system operates at 20-40 psi, The Pre Charge pressure will be 18 psi. Hope this helps.....

DOES THIS SYSTEM FEED YOUR HOME.DOES IT HAVE PSI TANK. WHAT COULD BE HAPPENING.IS.THERE IS A PRESSURE SWITCH (fyg-2) THAT WAS INSTALLED ON YOUR SYSTEM. THIS ITEM, DEPENDING ON IT'S MANUFACTURE.COME PRESET AT 20/40 PSI OR 30/50 PSI OR 40/60 PSI. THAT MEANS ON START/OFF START PSI. SO IF YOUR PUMP CONTINUES TO PUMP AND WON'T TURN OFF.YOUR SYSTEM PUMPS MAY HAVE SOME WEAR TO IT OR A POSSIBLE HOLE IN THE DROP PIPE THAT IS NOT ALLOWING YOUR SYSTEM TO REACH PSI THAT IT SET FOR. ALL U HAVE TO DO IS READJUST THE PRESSURE SWITCH TO THE PSI READING THAT IS ON PSI GAUGE.

if you have a pump for the whole house you need to check the bladder tank. there is a air valve on the top. Check the pressure with a tire gauge you should have at least 20 PSI this will stop the pump from the on and off thing.

You can compress air yuo can not compress water. thats why the ballder tank. As the pump work to shut off pressure it is compressing air. then when you use a little water the pump does not run until a large about is run then the pump will re fill the system

Best of luck

R J

You have a waterlogged pressure tank. To fix this problem, follow these steps:

1. Determine your cut in pressure by looking at the pressure gauge and seeing when the pump turns on.

2. Shut off the electric to the pump and shut off the main water to the house.

3. Drain the water from the pressure tank completely. You can do this by opening the drain at the bottom the the pressure tank.

4. With a air compressor and tire gauge (don't use pressure gauge on the pump) put enough pressure in the tank so that it is two psi less than the cut in pressure. So if your pump turns on at 30 psi, put 28 psi in the tank.

5. Turn the power back on to the pump and let it run till it shuts off.

6. Turn the water back on to the house.

7. This should fix the problem. If it does not, the bladder in the pressure tank is bad and the whole tank needs to be replaced.

This is a general fix without knowing your make and model of pump or pressure tank. This is a universal way of fixing this problem.

Hi, W/D here.
The tank has to have an air cushion in it for the water to be delivered as water is not compressible. Ideally, the water is expelled from the tank without air leaving the tank, and then the pump starting to refill the tank. The air in the tank is supplied either by an air bladder installed in the tank, or by an air injection system where a little air is injected into the tank every time the pump runs and shuts off.
A little leak at the pump is not a big deal, but should be capped off or the faucet repaired/replaced at your earliest convenience. Ideally, the water level in the tank should be closer to 80%; so if you have an air injection system, you might let a little air out of the tank (if you have a top valve), and this might cure your cycling problem. With the tank level as is, you are probably getting some air in your lines into the house. If you have an air bladder in the tank, the required pressure of the bladder, with no water in the tank should be on a sticker located at the schrader valve on the top of the tank (A schrader valve is similar to the air inlet valve on a bicycle tire). The ones I am familiar with are set around 28-29 psi. If you have an air injection system, it may need to be replaced. If the costs are close, I would elect to go with a bladder tank, as I've found that they eliminate many of the problems associated with the air injection type.
Fix or cap the faucet so you have no leaks showing at the pump or tank. Catch the pump running, and wait for it to shut off. When it does, close the discharge valve to the house and wait. You may need to trip the breaker for the pump. Watch the pressure gauge. If the pressure falls, the problem is with the well, and you may need to pull the inside well supply line from the casing and make repairs at the foot. My experience has been that it is better to replace the leathers, jet valve and foot valve all at once than to hope they hold if I repaired only one part.
If the gauge holds after 10 minutes, open the valve. If the pressure falls, the problem is on the house side of the valve.
Resolve any issues on the well before checking further, as that's where most well problems originate.
Adjust your tank level and pressure. If the pump continues to cycle, you may need to replace your pressure switch.
Best regards, --W/D--

it sounds like the pressure sensor or switch is bad.