Question about Kole audio Q1-3000D Car Audio Amplifier

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Kole Q1-3000D Power Supply caps Keep blowin

I keep blowin the same 2200 uf 80v. power supply Caps, (same 2 out of 5)
I unhook everything before it does more damage.
I replaced the blown 2 with the same rating, 100v this time, it playes fine until it basses hard for a few then blows them again.
what should I look for next? there are no visible signs of other parts damaged.

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Re: Kole Q1-3000D Power Supply caps Keep blowin

Sup! i had 3 qx1 3000 amps in my life and they hit hard my subs were down to 1 ohms and never had any problem with the amps and i istalled them myself i no what your prob is like i had with my first kole 3000 i installed i had a 4 g from my battery and i was poping 200 amp fueses i had to upgrade to a 0 gage from battery to the block then 1 4 gage to the kole 3000 and ground 4 gage wow! no more problems never poped a fues again ohhh!! and never put a 0 gage direct in the amp and ground you will fry the amp on a kole 3000 koles are not ment 4 o gage only high end amps are like sundown audio atomics amps ect... good luck!

Posted on May 27, 2008

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Re: Kole Q1-3000D Power Supply caps Keep blowin

You need a fuse of 300amps or higher with 1/2aut cable power supply connected to an after market altenator. also make sure the subs are wired properly.

Posted on Nov 12, 2007

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Hifonics 1500D started to hum through subs after beating on them. Unhooked rca's and not the sound. Any ideas?

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I went over a bump and heard a pop over the speakers and it stopped working, no rattle, all wires still connected, replaced fuses

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Amplifier repair

Unknown model not working could be a bunch of things!
does the unit have power?? fuse(s) ok?? turn on voltage present(12v)?? Any leds?? Unit ever get wet?? Any lites?? smoke get out?? was it, did it get real hot??
I have worked on a few with various problems, no common problems. Some of the things I have seen; Level adj pot was smashed in, Shorted fets , + burnt gate drive resistors in the ps section + blown runs, bad connections, shorted outputs, corrosion from beer leakage, bad electrolytic caps, leaking caps ate up the copper runs, metal bars used to hold down fets and outputs came loose, parts over heated and shorted.
Open up and look around, burnt resistors, leaking caps, puffed up caps, black marks, are all helpful signs.
These amps typically use FETs in the power supply(+/- 25-50v) and regular transistors for the outputs. Test all heatsinked parts for shorts. Carefully remove metal bars holding down heatsinked parts, keep track of where the heat sink insulators go, remove pcb and inspect runs. Repair and bench test with a power supply that has an amp meter. With out any input, unit should only use a few amps after initial 5-15amps to get the PS fired up. Then test across speaker outputs for any DC voltage. Anything over 1v, (should be very close to zero) amp needs some more work.
Good luck!

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