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Assuming it is a completely mechanical system with no electrical or electronic control there is no actual fast idle facility unless it is provided by a Waxstat cable device fitted into the cooling system.
I think what you mean is the engine idle speed is too fast rather than it is running at "fast idle" which is a term used for a raised idle speed when an engine is cold and decreases as the engine warms until at normal operating temperature the idle speed should be normal. On an old diesel engine it is the Waxstat device if fitted that provides this facility or a hand operated throttle. Very old cars and trucks had hand throttles for fast idle but later this function was provided by the choke or strangler mechanism. Some luxury cars had an electrical device fitted but the fast idle of modern engines is invariably provided by electronics.
I expect you need to adjust the throttle stop screw of the injection pump. This is at the lever where the throttle linkage connects to the pump and there is generally two stop screws fitted that limit the travel of the lever. One screw limits the maximum travel of the lever and therefore the maximum engine speed and this is generally set during manufacture or remanufacture and sealed to prevent tampering.
The other screw is the idle screw which the lever is pulled against by a spring when at rest.
Before adjustment it is necessary to ensure the throttle linkage is not maladjusted and preventing the lever contacting the stop. Disconnecting the linkage until the idle speed has been adjusted will ensure this and then slacken the stop screw locknut, start the engine and turn the screw in or out as applicable until the desired idle speed is achieved, allow the engine to warm up and make further adjustment if necessary and tighten the locknut and reconnect the throttle linkage. Do not adjust any pump screw except the idle screw.
As long as you know where the air bleed screw is, then do the following; Screw the screw in until it goes no further, (dont force it). Wind the screw out for about 1 and a half turns. Start the motor, you may have to adjust the throttle stop screw t keep the motor running. When the motor is running (at a fairly slow tick over) adjust the air bleed screw outwards a turn or so, if the motor goes faster then your turning the right way, if not, then screw in a bit. What you aim to do is to get the motor running as fast a tickover as possible. When the moto speeds up adjust the throttle stop screw to keep the tickover at a slow speed, It's as easy as that, this setting should be finally made again when the motor has fully warmed up (as the cold start may be in action if the motor is cold).Good luck
The larger screw is the throttle stop and the smaller screw is tickover mixture control. Unscrew the throttle stop and it ticks over slower, unscrew the smaller screw and the mixture has more air on tickover. Perhaps the float valve is not set up correctly and is letting too high a level of fuel in? Hope that helps.
look on the carb for two screw's sticking out they should have plastic guards on them just take them off and adjust the set screw's until its right it should smoke very little when right and not run very fast!!!
Turn both screws CW to stops (lightly), then back out CCW 1-1/2 turns each. This is a basic setting and the engine should start and run. Allow the engine to warm up, then pull the throttle full on. Turn the H jet screw CW until the engine starts to speed up, but still 4-strokes. Proper adjustment occurs when the engine is 4-stroking, but immediately 2-strokes when cutting. This gives best power and lowest heat. Release the throttle and adjust L jet CW until the engine idles fairly well, but will allow the engine to 'follow the throttle'. Adjust idle speed screw so that the chain stops turning, but the engine continues to run. Hope this helps!
you don't! set pilot two turns out from fully in on carb pilot jet, start engine and set throttle adjuster screw on carb to fast tick over, adjust pilot to get even firing and readjust throttle screw to @1000rpm