Question about Kenmore Kitchen Ranges

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My Kenmore 318086600 rev f stove is an old stove with 8 years. Now it has problem on the left hand burners. When I turn on left upper burner, the upper burner and lower inside burner both heat on, and

I switched upper burner switch from right side to left. They both working well for 1 week, then broken again with same problem. I know maybe I switch lower burner switch from right to left it may find out problem. However I want to ask first instead spend time.

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  • John
    John Dec 15, 2014

    Sorry I forgot to write down, it's a electronic range.

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  • Master
  • 1,511 Answers

Very costly: Get a new range and forget repairs.

Posted on Jan 03, 2015

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: hotpoint 30" self cleaning gas range with sealed burners - no bake

It may be the ignitor, they can crack and you wouldn't even see. Good news is they are cheap ($5-20) and they are usually easy to replace. But before you replace it...

When set to bake, does the "oven cycle" light come on? If not, that means no power is being sent to the ignitor. Reason? There is a switch in the oven latch, to make sure a) latch must be closed for cleaning cycle and b) latch must be unlocked for baking. On mine, the switch button gets stuck, so even when the latch is unlocked, it thinks it is locked and will not allow the bake cycle to proceed. Cycling the latch a few times may free it, otherwise you'll need to replace the switch (not that hard but a bit of a pain to get to).

Posted on Nov 22, 2007

rickzilla
  • 706 Answers

SOURCE: ge spectra gas stove top not lighting

If your top burners are not lighting or will not work, it is possible that the burners have become dirty or wet. Please follow the troubleshooting directions below before calling service:

  1. Turn you burner to the Lite position:

    If you hear clicking or sparking, go to Step 2.

    If you do not, check your circuit breakers. If the circuit breaker is ok, we recommend that you schedule service by calling 1-800-432-2737 or schedule service online.

  2. Clean the burner and electrode:

    First remove the burner grate, cap, and head. Use a needle or paper clip to poke through the holes on the burner head. Re-assemble and try the burner.

    Remove the burner grate, cap, and head. Even if it looks clean, wipe the tip of the electrode with a clean, dry paper towel and PRESS IT DOWN. Re-assemble and try the burner, again.

    Check to see if the burner works, If not, then go to Step 3.

  3. Re-assemble - Make sure that each burner top matches its burner bottom. The burner top will lay flat if put on correctly.

    Check to see if the burner works, If not, then go to Step 4.

  4. The spark igniter is operating properly, but the burner is still not lighting. At this point, we would recommend that you schedule service by calling 1-800-432-2737 or schedule service online.

Posted on Sep 01, 2008

  • 126 Answers

SOURCE: Burner will not turn off

I would first check the infinite control switch (#WB24T10029) the part the knob slips onto. The next thing I'd check is the erc (#WB27T10231) control board. Hope that is helpful!

Posted on Jan 15, 2009

  • 360 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore glass top range left front large burner out

check the burner socket, it is likely that contact is being lost where the burner connects to the hardwired portion of the system (the socket). It is not unusual for the socket to "burn up" when there is a poor connection to the burner resulting in the burner being replaced and the new burner not working or working intermittently.

Please take the time to rate this solution

Posted on Jan 29, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: oven quit working

Hi. this is common in many old gas range ovens. There is a set of coils that are attached to the gas valve assembly. These coils , when activated and operational, open and close the main and secondary valves in this unit. They are controlled by the main ERC(clock/oven control board). I recommend checking these coils and there respective wiring harnesses. if the clips and wires are worn and corroded, simply replace the entire wire harness.

Now, if the wiring harness and wires that are connected to the coils look good and there are no signs of corrosion on the wires and connector clips, this will confirm that the coils have failed and you will need to replace them.

You can also preform an additional test with a multimeter. simply connect your multimeter or voltage meter to both terminal posts located on the coils. once your meter is connected, start the oven cycle. you should register some sort of current during this test at this time. if the current is sufficient and the coils do not initiated the valve action, this will confirm coil failure. if the meter dosen't register a current during oven operation, this will confirm ERC(control) failure. you will have to replace the Oven control board in this case.

The Most common issue in this situation will most defiantly be the coil assembly and not the control.

Please rate and god bless:)

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

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Hello;
My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

I assume you have an electric oven.

You have a defective individual burner control.

1.) Pull your oven out so you can get behind it.
2.) Unplug your oven.
3.) Remove the upper back metal cover.
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