Question about Fisher and Paykel WL26CW2 Top Load Washer

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Recently I had a leak in my pump. Without looking at your web site I tipped the washer over an examined the pump for confirmation. When I up-righted it in a drip pan and plugged it back in, the washer still worked but started to scroll through several screens. I believe I affected the control module. I replaced the pump. I started getting the pump fault message 245 and it still would not run. It would partially fill with water and then fault out not "spinning" but it still was the 245 error fault. I replaced the control module. I still get a 245 error fault. It hums and does a partial turn (tipped it back to see drum motor/gear cover partial rotate. When not plugged in I can rotate the drum freely (top and bottom). After this, I was pushing buttons trying to find a diagnostic tool. Got it to fill (over fill). Cant figure out how to try to tiger the pump to empty? Wondering if new pump is bad or if connections were corroided and not making contact. was going to clean contacts with baking soda or coke, and retry but am hesitant. Any suggestions? Ran into a "Data Compilation" not sure if I can get back there or event decipher it.

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6 Suggested Answers

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1294 Answers

SOURCE: Dead Fisher & Paykel GWL11 Washer

Plug off the wall; dismantle & clean out your pump. This is if your filter is clean.

Posted on Jun 16, 2008

  • 30 Answers

SOURCE: fisher and paykel water leak

Code F1 indicates that Flood switch has been
activated which explain why you feel that it is overfilling.

Water leaking
Drain hose disconnected
from waste pipe.
Reconnect the drain hose to the waste pipe.
Supply inlet hose not
properly connected.
Ensure the inlet hose is connected securely.
Other leaks. Turn water and power supplies to the
Dishwaher off.

Posted on Sep 04, 2008

  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher Paykel GWL10 US spin cycle issue

check out another website. for other fix it tips on FPaykel.

Posted on Oct 21, 2008

  • 145 Answers

SOURCE: Fisher paykal GWL10 top loading washer

Hi. I work on these machines every day.
The problem with your model 10 is that the diverter valve is not in the DRAIN position, so when the pump runs, it is sending the water right back into the tub. The issue is one of two things-
Either the tab on the diverter valve has physically broken off and the machine needs a new diverter valve, or there is a short in the machine's controller and it is sending a constant signal to that valve, causing it to never be in the DRAIN position. When the diverter is NOT energized, the flap is at rest and the water will go out the drain. When the valve IS energized, the water is supposed to go thru the recirculation hose.
You want to check that diverter valve first and formost. That's going to tell you what you need to know. Look closely at it and you'll see if the little tab that goes from the wax motor to the flapper lever is broken off. The diverter valve is located down underneath the tub in the right rear, it has three hoses attached to it and two wires. It's grey in color and the little wax motor is brown.

If you would like to obtain a service manual, you can get them from

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

  • 3513 Answers

SOURCE: water leaks during final spin cycle only

The first thing to do is get the machine up off the floor onto a base that allows you to slide under machine on your back with a flash light. Make sure whatever you decide to lift machine up onto is very stable and durable. Bricks, blocks, or a utility cart maybe. You need to look under machine to see where the leak is coming from. You want to make sure it is not going to fall on you. The machine is not that heavy, just awkward to lift or move because of it's size. So, you could slide something under each corner, one at a time, or ask a friend to help lift it onto a base. Now you are ready to go. Don't worry, this is really easy.
Get a towel, flashlight, and start machine on a small load with shortest cycle set.(probably delicate). After you start machine, slide under and and try to find where water is leaking from. The pump is going to be a plastic circular shape thing with ridges on outside. Probably dead front center and attached to motor. If water is leaking anywhere from plastic circle thing, then this is your problem. BUT, also follow all the black hoses that are under machine. Sometimes leak can be a cracked hose or loose attachment. That is real cheap and easy. The hoses are attached with metal ring deals. You take a pair of channel locks or big pliers and squeeze them to open. There are 2 or 3 hoses that attach to pump that will need to be removed if this is where leak is coming from. Then, the pump is only attached with metal clips that you pull out to release pump from motor. No tools needed. Take the pump to sears or local appliance shop and I guarantee they will have replacement.

Thank you for contacting

Posted on Aug 10, 2009

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The bit you're pointing to isn't meant to have any water in it (and to be honest, probably doesn't).

The leak is probably somewhere nearby, with the water then tracking round the outside of the pump before finally dripping off the lowest point.

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1. Dry the whole pump assembly really thoroughly, then put some cold water into the machine and (with the power disconnected) carefully feel around the pump body to try to identify what bits get damp first.

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