Question about Behringer PMP2000 800 Watt 10 Channel Powered
Reading the instructions and trying different combinations of connections
Your woofers are probably blown. To check plug a 1/4 inch or speakon into the speaker cabinet with the two bare wires exposed on the opposite end and touch with a 9volt flat battery if the driver doesn't move ir sound it's blown
Posted on Dec 22, 2014
Your main speakers have blown, or cable connection has rattled itself out of place. Open it up and have a look, should be pretty easy to figure out whats what once opened.
Posted on Dec 23, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check if sound to headphone jack is normal. If so, try the headphones in the MAIN out 1/4 inch jacks. If there is sound (it will be a lot less as this is a line level output), then the power amps are probably popped... and maybe the main power supply. The auxilary runs all the visible stuff.
If under warranty, take it for repair. Behringer doesn't provide schematics so working on these is a problem. In the PMP5000 there is a chronic problem of insulation breakdown on the rear most amp that can wipe out the power supply as well as the switching transistors in the amplifier. (This is a class D switching/ energy recovery type amp).
Posted on Feb 21, 2010
The outputs are usually just for the front of house speakers - the monitors usually need their own amps.
Check the manual.
You have 1200 watss of power - so keep the volumes REALLY LOW to try things out - otherwise your speakers could be blown by the amp.
Posted on Mar 07, 2011
Since all your speakers are passive, indeed there is a problem like what you describe. This is because with the same amount of signal from the board's speakers outputs, the 2520 can't play the same amount of audio with the PASW18. I don't know what other equipment is available (if any) so let me give you some suggestions.
1. Connect in parallel the 2520s at one of the board's output and do the same with the PASW18 at the other channel output. Doing this you will be able to handle one channel (e.g. left) for the main speakers level and the other channel (right) for the sub speakers level. No stereo playback, so set all the inputs to mono.
2. Use another separate amplifier to drive the subs. You have to provide signal to the amp from any LINE LEVEL OUTPUT from the board (using mono is a very good idea since low frequencies have no stereo separation and in this case you could use a single channel amplifier for both subs, parallel connection)
If there is available more equipment post me back in details to give you guide lines.
In case of a problem or clarification or further details needed (connection diagram e.t.c.), don't hesitate to post me a reply before rejecting my answer.
If you are satisfied, accept my solution.
Thanks and regards
direct fixya link: http://www.fixya.com/users/technical114
Posted on Mar 08, 2011
For goodness sakes do NOT replace the fuse... doing so causes more damage inside. Likely one of the power amps has shorted and may have damaged the power supply as well. Also please read my tip on Fixya regarding a HAZARD with channel A if you use 1/4 inch plugs with the speaker cables. Essentially the sleeve of the channel A plug is the hot, and not the tip. Ground the sleeve of the plug and you can blow the channel A amp. YOU WILL NEED TO TAKE THE UNIT IN FOR REPAIR... THIS IS NOT A DIY REPAIR!!!!
Posted on Aug 23, 2011
If the fuse blew, you ARE going to need a lot more than a fuse as the cause is usually internal damage to the amp module and or power supply. Replacing the fuse without repairing the cause USUALLY causes more damage.
Posted on Nov 16, 2011
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