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Hoover oph 148 the door will not latch closed. could the door lock be broken

Model oph 148 I have removed the top of the washer and cannot see any fault with the door lock could it be that it just wants a new lock

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  • Hoover Master
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Door interlock or door catch

Posted on Feb 19, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet HT GHW9400PL0

Thanks to Coldcut and several others, I have followed the trail of problems and solutions and successfully fixed the annoying (to say the least) FDL and F11 error codes issue on my Whirlpool GHW9400PL0 purchased in 2005, broken in 2008. I too was extremely frustrated with a load of wash taking 1 or 2 days to complete. Some of the fixes (unplugging the washer for an hour, simultaneously pressing start and cancel) worked temporarily, but eventually I had to call for service. Before that, I fearlessly took the door lock unit apart (not recommended) and reinstalled it. It did not work. I ordered a new door lock. It did not fix the issue. Coldcut already knew that would not work but I tried it anyway. Not a big ticket item and I was afraid to muck with the CUU circuit board.

The whirlpool service center sent a repair guy out within the week, but he failed to show on the scheduled day. Calls to the service center confirmed that he was on his way. An hour late, the service center confirmed I was next on his schedule. Two hours later, I asked to speak to a manager who listened to my compaint and informed me in no uncertain terms that they did not care about customer satisfaction and would not be interested in monitoring their repair partners. I am so glad I took a half day off work without pay to wait for someone who did not value my time. I told the service center I would never buy another Whirlpool appliance and they politely told me that "it was my decision". Indeed.

The repair guy showed up the next day (another no pay day), asked me what the error code was, checked his computer, and informed me I needed a new CCU at twice the price of major online parts suppliers. I sent him away after paying the $80 service fee, and ordered a new CCU online.

With the new CCU on the way and nothing to lose, I took the CCU out of the machine. gaga24008 had wisely advised to be careful prying the board out of the case (thank you) and following Coldcut's instructions I resoldered the relay legs with my circa 1968 Wen soldering gun. Put everything back together (I had previously removed and replaced every connector in the entire machine) and waited for the 6 whimpy relay clicks to prove it didn't work-- but it did work! I've completed 15 or so loads of wash since, and no problems. I'm hanging on to my expensive replacement CCU just in case. I'm wary of the postings which refer to immediate problems after installing a new CCU. My next step will be to hang the dang thing by a bungy cord. Thanks to the many people who have posted solutions to this aggravating issue. I'll be visiting FixYa for any future issues with my tools and appliances.

Posted on Oct 12, 2008

dblred
  • 68 Answers

SOURCE: The door on my washer won't lock!

the door lock has internal relays, if they go bad, the motor control board will not function. Even if you cant physically see anything, and even if the door still locks, the door lock assembly is still the most likely problem and needs replaced. The only way to test it is with a multimeter to know for sure before you buy a new one

Posted on Oct 26, 2009

Daniel S
  • 4323 Answers

SOURCE: hoover oph 714d optima 7kg

Hi


Error code e005 means the temperature sensor has gone bad. To fix this error you'll need to replace the temperature sensor. It might have happened that the temperature sensor wires have been disconnected from the main board. To replace the temperature sensor you'll need to disassemble the washer and inspect the drum's bottom for the temperature sensor. Also check the wires coming to the sensor fro any cut.

Please post back for any further assistance.


Daniel

Posted on Aug 01, 2010

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: whirlpool duet washer ghw9250mw1 door won't close ...

1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.

Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.

http://media.fotki.com/1_p,wkkrqtwwwgtsgwdxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/krqsddwkbxktttdstrw/1/1303472/5961857/image48287img-or.jpg

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 30, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: door won't close/lock

Just had the same issue. The latch, which rotates up and forward, is spring-loaded towards the rear. If 'tripped' to closed position, it cannot rotate back down until it's carrier/hinge slides slightly forward. I bent a sturdy wire into a long 'U', then bent both ends down (~3/8in) and slightly outward to hook over the latch-hinges and pull both sides gently (its plastic) forward, while rotating the latch downward with a small screwdriver. be careful to keep what appears to be a brown plastic button raised, if it pops down from above the latch. Yes, having 4 hands would help, but the 'U' wire can pull from behind the two outer edges with one finger. Once the latch rotates down, release tension on the 'U' wire and extricate it - problem solved.

Jon (We don need no steenkin manuals)

'Build a more idiot-proof machine, and the universe will build a better idiot.'

"We don't take no s*** from no machines."
Colonel Jason Grant (Walter Koenig), Moontrap 1989

Posted on Dec 19, 2010

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I just had a similar problem to this with my Hoover OPH148 washing machine. The Cold Wash LED would flash 14 times repetitively after each wash cycle. The only way to open the door was to turn the controller to the off position.
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Thanks for using FixYa. Error “dlf” or f dl means a door latch failure. This means that you’ll need to replace the door latch assembly however before doing that you can leave the washer unplugged for 30minutes so that it resets itself. In the meantime when it’s unplugged just inspect the door latch wiring to ensure all the connector plugs are intact and not loose or broken. You can access the door latch wiring harness by removing the top panel of the washer. To remove the top panel just remove the three screws that hold the panel in place in the rear of the washer. With the screws removed, the panel will slide back, and then lift off. Locate the door latch assembly behind the front panel on the right hand side. Trace all the connectors from the door latch to the Central Control Unit (CCU) and make sure they are properly seated at both ends. If after doing this still the issue is not resolved then unfortunately you have to get the door latch replaced. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.



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My Hoover Optima OPH 714 D washing machine won't start


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"F22" is a door latch error. It can mean any of the following:

1. The door latch mechanism is broken. Inspect the door latch to ensure it is intact and not broken. Verify the electrical connections are making good contact.

2. The door latch hook (located on the door) is broken or worn. If the latch hook is damaged, it may not allow the door latch to engage and lock properly.

3. The interconnecting wiring between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the door latch are loose, broken, or not making good contact. The CCU is the main computer for the washer. You will need to remove the top panel of the washer in order to access. Simply remove the retaining screws located in the back of the washer and the panel will slide back, then lift off.

4. Defective CCU. The CCU controls nearly all the functions of the washer, including the door latch. If the CCU fails, the proper lock/unlock signals do not get sent to the latch mechanism.

Determing how to troubleshoot the CCU and Door Latch is in the technical data sheet included with your washer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower toe panel directly below the door. If the tech sheet isn't behind the toe panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls. I do not have the procedure memorized, but there are some tests you can try to determine if the problem is the CCU or latch.

If you determine the latch needs replaced, the following link may assist you:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r587965-door_latch_replacement_fdl_error

The procedures I provided are for Kenmore Elite series front loaders, which are the larger cousing to the HE2. The steps are nearly the same except for how to remove the door gasket from the front facing of the washer. The HE2 models are glued on instead of using a wire hoop (unless yours is a later model and has been modified). You can use a metal putty knife to carefully peel the gasket loose and reseal it when completed. A good appliance gasket cement (found at any appliance parts retailer) will work. You can also use a plumber's sealant. Just make sure you use a pliable rubber cement. Do not use super glue.

Some prefer to try to work through the top of the washer and avoid removing the gasket. This may be possible with the larger top loaders, but the smaller models are usually a bit more difficult to access.

Replacement parts can be purchased on line at any of the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
appliancepartspros.com
pcappliancerepair.com
repairclinic.com

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

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This advice is for Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet model front loading washers. If you experience a problem where the door becomes jammed and will not unlock or open, here's an easy way to gain access inside your washer WITHOUT calling the repairman.

1. Remove the lower panel under the door by loosening the three screws under the bottom edge on the front of the washer. HINT: If you prop up the front feet of the washer with some small blocks of wood, this will make access to the screws much easier.
2. With the screws removed, the lower panel should drop down then come off. If the panel sticks, a light tap on either side will knock it loose.
3. Reach your hand up inside the washer behind the front casing on the right-hand side. This is where the door latch assembly is located.
4. At the bottom of the door latch assembly is a small pull tab. This is the manual release for the door. Pull the tab straight down and the door will come open.

Sometimes these doors will not unlock for whatever reason. If there are no error codes being generated, this could have just been a momentary glitch. If you see "Fdl" "DLE" or "Fdu" error codes, these are usually indications of a failed door latch assembly and will require replacement.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

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