Question about Hoover Washing Machines
Model oph 148 I have removed the top of the washer and cannot see any fault with the door lock could it be that it just wants a new lock
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet HT GHW9400PL0
Thanks to Coldcut and several others, I have followed the trail of problems and solutions and successfully fixed the annoying (to say the least) FDL and F11 error codes issue on my Whirlpool GHW9400PL0 purchased in 2005, broken in 2008. I too was extremely frustrated with a load of wash taking 1 or 2 days to complete. Some of the fixes (unplugging the washer for an hour, simultaneously pressing start and cancel) worked temporarily, but eventually I had to call for service. Before that, I fearlessly took the door lock unit apart (not recommended) and reinstalled it. It did not work. I ordered a new door lock. It did not fix the issue. Coldcut already knew that would not work but I tried it anyway. Not a big ticket item and I was afraid to muck with the CUU circuit board.
The whirlpool service center sent a repair guy out within the week, but he failed to show on the scheduled day. Calls to the service center confirmed that he was on his way. An hour late, the service center confirmed I was next on his schedule. Two hours later, I asked to speak to a manager who listened to my compaint and informed me in no uncertain terms that they did not care about customer satisfaction and would not be interested in monitoring their repair partners. I am so glad I took a half day off work without pay to wait for someone who did not value my time. I told the service center I would never buy another Whirlpool appliance and they politely told me that "it was my decision". Indeed.
The repair guy showed up the next day (another no pay day), asked me what the error code was, checked his computer, and informed me I needed a new CCU at twice the price of major online parts suppliers. I sent him away after paying the $80 service fee, and ordered a new CCU online.
With the new CCU on the way and nothing to lose, I took the CCU out of the machine. gaga24008 had wisely advised to be careful prying the board out of the case (thank you) and following Coldcut's instructions I resoldered the relay legs with my circa 1968 Wen soldering gun. Put everything back together (I had previously removed and replaced every connector in the entire machine) and waited for the 6 whimpy relay clicks to prove it didn't work-- but it did work! I've completed 15 or so loads of wash since, and no problems. I'm hanging on to my expensive replacement CCU just in case. I'm wary of the postings which refer to immediate problems after installing a new CCU. My next step will be to hang the dang thing by a bungy cord. Thanks to the many people who have posted solutions to this aggravating issue. I'll be visiting FixYa for any future issues with my tools and appliances.
Posted on Oct 12, 2008
the door lock has internal relays, if they go bad, the motor control board will not function. Even if you cant physically see anything, and even if the door still locks, the door lock assembly is still the most likely problem and needs replaced. The only way to test it is with a multimeter to know for sure before you buy a new one
Posted on Oct 26, 2009
SOURCE: hoover oph 714d optima 7kg
Error code e005 means the temperature sensor has gone bad. To fix this error you'll need to replace the temperature sensor. It might have happened that the temperature sensor wires have been disconnected from the main board. To replace the temperature sensor you'll need to disassemble the washer and inspect the drum's bottom for the temperature sensor. Also check the wires coming to the sensor fro any cut.
Please post back for any further assistance.
Posted on Aug 01, 2010
1. Unplug washer.
2. Remove the outer portion of the door bellow. This is the gray rubber boot around the door. Feel around the edge of the door bellow where it attaches to the front of the washer. You will find a wire retaining hoop in the seam between the rubber and the front case. Follow this wire hoop to the bottom of the door bellow and you will find a tension spring. Carefully, stretch this spring apart and remove the wire hoop.
3. Pull the rubber bellow from the door facing on the front of the washer being careful not to rip or tear it. Once removed, fold the rubber backwards inside the drum so you can access behind the front panel. DO NOT remove the rubber bellow from the wash tub.
4. The door latch assembly is located behind the front panel of the washer on the right hand side. Locate and remove the three screws on the washer front that hold the door latch assembly in place. The whole assembly should come free from the washer front and be held by a plastic mounting bracket and several wire connectors.
5. Carefully remove the latch assembly from the plastic mounting bracket BEFORE attempting to unplug any wires. It makes it much easier to access if you do.
6. Unplug the wire connectors using care not to break any of the wires. You may want to write them down, but I believe they will only plug into their respective slots.
7. Remove the old door latch and install the new one in the reverse order of the steps I just presented to you. Plug the wires back in first, then place the whole assembly back into the plastic mounting bracket, and then reattach to the front of the washer.
8. Now, when you get the reinstalling the rubber door boot, you may want to get the assistance of a second pair of hands as it can be difficult sometimes to manipulate the wire retainer back into place. Carefully reattach the rubber bellow to the door facing on the front of the washer first.
9. Starting at the top of the door bellow at the 12 o'clock position begin inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Work your way around with both hands to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions. (This is where you could use those second pair of hands). While holding a slight downward tension on the wire hoop to keep it in place, pull the tension spring apart enough to snap the remaining part of the hoop into place at the bottom. Once you've completed these steps make sure the door closes and latches properly. NEVER slam a door with an electronic latch. They can break easily.
Now plug the washer back in and test operate. NOTE: You can run diagnostics on these washers by referring to the tech sheet provided by the manufacturer. The tech sheet is located behind the lower panel under the door, or along the interior cabinet walls. Included, are instructions on how to run diagnostics and troubleshooting tips associated with the list of fault codes. It is recommended that this tech sheet remain inside the washer to prevent it from being lost.
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Posted on Sep 30, 2010
SOURCE: door won't close/lock
Just had the same issue. The latch, which rotates up and forward, is spring-loaded towards the rear. If 'tripped' to closed position, it cannot rotate back down until it's carrier/hinge slides slightly forward. I bent a sturdy wire into a long 'U', then bent both ends down (~3/8in) and slightly outward to hook over the latch-hinges and pull both sides gently (its plastic) forward, while rotating the latch downward with a small screwdriver. be careful to keep what appears to be a brown plastic button raised, if it pops down from above the latch. Yes, having 4 hands would help, but the 'U' wire can pull from behind the two outer edges with one finger. Once the latch rotates down, release tension on the 'U' wire and extricate it - problem solved.
Jon (We don need no steenkin manuals)
'Build a more idiot-proof machine, and the universe will build a better idiot.'
"We don't take no s*** from no machines."
Colonel Jason Grant (Walter Koenig), Moontrap 1989
Posted on Dec 19, 2010
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Dec 31, 2013 | Hoover Washing Machines
Hello zabbster - Typically the DR or DO error code indicates that the door switch is not closed. Make sure that the door lock is completely closed. If the door is closed, make sure the door latch is not broken. If the latch is broken, you may possibly need to replace the door lock switch.
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