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This is most likely a failure of the plastic couplers / rubber isolator between the motor and gearcase. This assembly is designed to fail during an overload condition, but they often just wear out over time. If you are mechanically inclined, it's not a difficult repair to make.
---UNPLUG THE WASHER FROM THE ELECTRICAL OUTLET--- 1. Remove console 2. Remove 2 gold clips at rear of top 3. Unplug lid switch harness 4. Rotate the cabinet up a few inches at the rear and pull it straight off 5. Near the floor at the front of the machine, you'll see the pump, motor, gearcase assembly 6. Remove the 2 large metal clips that hold the motor to the gearcase (you might have to disconnect the motor wiring connectors 7. Rotate the motor / pump downward so the end of the motor facing the gearcase is pointing up / out so you can see it. 8. You should see evidence of a failed coupler... rubber and / or plastic pieces 9. Pry the broken plastic couplers off of the motor and gearcase along w/ whatever's left of the isolator (black rubber) 10. Install new parts (probably need to get these at your local appliance repair shop) 11. The tricky part is realigning the couplers and isolator so you can push everything back together. Be patient... once it's pushed back together, reinstall the large metal clips, motor wiring connectors, etc. 12. Put the cabinet back on, being careful that the rear corners are pushed inward so they engage on the base tabs 13. Install everything else in reverse order of removal 14. Plug it in and listen to her purr...
It is not the brake computer. The front left inside brake pad is the noly pad with a sensor in it. If the light is on it is usually because the wire connector broke and is now causing an open signal, cauing the light in the cluster to come on. Remove the front left wheel. Remove the connector for the brake pad attached to the shock assembly. Check the terminals for corrosion. The pins must be clean and not blackend or green. The female side connector terminals must be straight and not widened. If you want to be sure you can do 1 of 2 things. Check the resistance of the the 2 pins going to the brake pad. It must be 0 resistance meaning not open. Or bypass the female connector temporarily with a paper clip or wire and start the car. If the light goes off it means the pad is the cause or the connector. I have often seen the wire still holding and not broken completely but when you remove the pad the ridge of the inside of the disk has worn the wire to the point where it broke prematurally. Sometimes just a light tug and it'll break.
There is a sensor on each of the front (not sure about the rear) brake calipers that indicate via the dash light when brake pads are worn down and need replacing. The wire is probably broken on one or both of the front wheel calipers. If there is enough slack in the wire you can just splice it back together with **** splice connectors and seal with heat shrink insulation. My '02 Passat has had it happen twice, first on the drivers side, repaired wire and light went out, then the other side broke, repaired the same way and haven't had any problems since.
Let me guess you have broken off your I.F connector ,this is what you connect your cable to on the back of your set,if this is what you are talking about ,you will need to try and repair IF connector or replace your turner.sometimes when this piece is broken off turner is also damaged,there for you have to replace turner.