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I heard a pop when I turned on my front burner a few weeks ago and not that burner does not work, replaced the element and also the control box behind that burner knob as well. Still not working....could it be a fuse?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Burners Blew

I had a similar problem while mine was still under warranty. Seemed like every time I used the oven and stove top for a major dinner it would short out and I would get an error code: F1:E6. They replaced the board under the display area, but it happened again about 6 months later. Turned out that when they made the oven they didn't insert a chimney like vent system from the bottom left side of the oven to the vent holes that come out the upper left side of the stovetop. This caused the panel to overheat and stop the entire oven from working. They replaced the board again and installed the "chimney vent system" and I haven't had the problem occur again (it's been 3 years!).

Posted on Feb 17, 2008

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SOURCE: Frigidaire Range control panel DEAD

We tested the EOC and it will indeed need a replacement. Also, just a couple weeks prior we ran the "clean" mode on the oven as did another poster who experienced the "pop" and loss of the control board/oven function, but still had stove top function.

Posted on Dec 17, 2008

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SOURCE: kenmore glass top range left front large burner out

check the burner socket, it is likely that contact is being lost where the burner connects to the hardwired portion of the system (the socket). It is not unusual for the socket to "burn up" when there is a poor connection to the burner resulting in the burner being replaced and the new burner not working or working intermittently.

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Posted on Jan 29, 2009

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SOURCE: Front right element popped and started a fire...I

Usually when a burner goes it is the switch that goes at the same time. There is a fusable link in the switch itself that blows, they are easy to replace. It is usually best to replace the recerptacle as well as the surge usually builds up a lot of carbon on the connectors and may cause some arcing and difficulty down the road.

Posted on May 18, 2009

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if an element itself had shorted it would not stop the other from working and you could inspect each element and see blistering as evidence.the pop you heard has to be in common with both elements but not the cook top[burners]so thats going to be the wiring in the back of range, or switching,[thermostat,clock timer or oven selector switch,depends on which model you have]you will have to pull range and remove back pannels.you will find an obivous burn't connection.too repair all new connections must be clean and tight,or will burn again.

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We tested the EOC and it will indeed need a replacement. Also, just a couple weeks prior we ran the "clean" mode on the oven as did another poster who experienced the "pop" and loss of the control board/oven function, but still had stove top function.

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