FL (flood condition) also can be an indicator of a bad pump. The washer tries to drain and cannot because the pump has failed or is jammed with debris.
You can run a complete washer diagnostic procedure to see if you can isolate the fault by doing the following. I recommend you make sure the room is quiet so you can hear the pump motor running when expected, as well as the main drive that nutates and spins.
Perform a "key dance" to put the washer in the diagnostic mode by pressing the Prewash Options button, Wash Time, Prewash Options, Wash Time - each 2 times in rapid succession within 5 seconds total. The display will change to 99 and begin counting down (in seconds) as it runs the following tests. Listen for the pump motor to actually run and not just "hum", indicating a jam or burnout.
Display 99-81, Nutate & fill
Display 80-61, Nutate & recirculate
Display 60-41, Nutate, Fill & drain **
Display 40-21, Nutate, Fill & drain **
Display 20-0, Spin & drain **
You can cancel the test in progress at any time by pressing the Stop/Cancel button.
**during these phases the pump will run forwards and backwards (recirculate & drain). If you do not hear water pumping inside the washer or draining out the drain, your pump is likely bad and needs to be replaced.
The old style pump was a two-part assembly and the re-engineered part # mentioned above is a single piece that solves the impeller failure problem the original pumps were prone to have.
sells replacement pump part # 285990 for this washer and they are a reliable supplier with a good value. You can purchase a lifetime warranty on the pump from them for an extra fee.
Unfortunately there is not enough room in this text box to post the pump removal & replacement procedure but you can get your local handyman to do the work for you if you are not inclined, as I was, to drain the washer and turn it on its side to figure out how to replace the pump.
The other problem is that once you start getting a pump failure you need to look at the root cause. If the pump was ruined by draw strings or debris being sucked into the pump impeller, it is time to replace the top wash plate assembly (the plastic plate inside the washer that the clothes sit on).
There is a rubber seal on the outside edge of this plate which wears out over time and rotates upward, opening a bigger gap between the plate and the stainless steel drum which lets draw strings and other things get sucked all the way down into the pump. The upper wash plate & seal is a single unit and the seal itself cannot be replaced as it is molded into the plastic piece. Order this from Sears to insure a more recent 'cure date' on the rubber seal from the manufacturer, rather than 3rd party suppliers who might stock the part for longer periods and have old rubber seals past their cure date. The wash plate should be replaced about every other year.