Question about Honeywell "R8184G4074 Oil Burner Control, 30 Seconds"

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How do I change out a R4184 D 1027 to a R8184G protectorelay oil primary

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The primary difference between them is the 4184D seems to use a line volt thermostat you would need to jump the thermostat leads on the r8184g and set the line volt thermostat in series with the power load side of the incoming power
https://customer.honeywell.com/resources/techlit/TechLitDocuments/69-0000s/69-0618.pdf check the link for a diagram from Honeywell. good luck

Posted on Dec 15, 2014

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TurboChef Tornado is showing error Close door P _ _. How do i fix this?


The primary switch is broken most likely. Take off the right cover and look past the control board and see of that switch is broken. its only a couple dollar part.

Jan 20, 2012 | TurboChef TORNADO Electric Oven

1 Answer

ERROR DODE f84


Is this an oven...or a microwave ?
If its a microwave, then we're talking about no voltage on the high voltage transformer (primary side)
That could very well be a fuse.

Hope this helps...

Jul 23, 2011 | Ovens

1 Answer

Hello, I have a Turbochef tornado oven, while operation i am getting a Fault code Close door error and it keeps on coming while closing the door with a beep . Can anyone please try to resolve the error...


seems like your primary switch isn't closed correctly or it might bad.
step to trouble shoot
OVEN HAS 5000 VOLTS MOVING INTO IT PLEASE BE CAREFULL
1.press back key to turn off the oven.
2.Open left side pannel.
3.press 'back' and 'enter' key together.Then, enter 9428 and then press enter.
4.You will be directing to an testing screen.At the bottom of thetesting screen there are many alphabets.In which you can see 'P' ,'S' and 'M' .
5.Open the door and watch what happened to alphabet 'P'.I meant to say that when door open alphabet will highlited ,and when closed its seems an regular 'P'
6.open door and close the door .And also keep an eye on the primary switch at the top left corner of the oven where the door latches engaged.If it engaged very nicely and you still see an highlited 'P' in the testing screen then REPLACE THE PRIMARY SWITCH OR IF SWITCH IS OKAY THEN CHEK THE WIRING UPTO MAIN BOARD.
7.If switch doesn't latches properly then adjust switch ,by lossning the screw and aligned it properly.
PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF YOU KNOW HOW TO USE MULTIMETER,SO I CAN EXPLAIN YOU HOW TO CHECK THE SWITCH.
ALSO PLEASE RATE MY ANSWER.
THANKS

May 12, 2011 | TurboChef TORNADO Electric Oven

1 Answer

Last few weeks occasionally my turbo is saying door not closed. Had this problem before but the grate had swelled we ordered new one this is a different reason because when we hold the door shut it still...


HI, problem sounds like your primary switch isn't closed.open the left side pannel and adjust the primary switch or if it is damaged then replace it.
You need Part number NGC 1215 (adjustment tool).
For checking the primary switch that it is bad or good you must know how to enter into the test mode.
Let me know if you know how to go into test mode ,so I can explain more a little bit.

Apr 27, 2011 | TurboChef TORNADO Electric Oven

2 Answers

Fault code Close Door (__M) Keeps coming up and oven wont start


door switch on the right side (looking at the oven) is broken, part is about 2 to 3$, unscrew 2 screws and that's it

Apr 15, 2011 | TurboChef TORNADO Electric Oven

1 Answer

Primary gauge supply wire size


Hi,
You need to have #6/3 W/G for a range...

heatman101

Feb 19, 2011 | Ovens

1 Answer

Hi The fan is this oven dosn't always work! Sometimes if you give it a gentle nudge it will start to spin other times it just wont spin at all & some times it works perfectly! any ideas on how to...


You need to change the fan motor. These motors are not very powerful and wear in the bearing can cause this effect. oiling the bearings is only a tempory fix and you will eventually end up changing the motor.

Jan 22, 2011 | Electrolux EOB5610 Ultrafan Electric...

1 Answer

My oven is not heating up to higher temps. Also the door doesn't seem to close all the way like it used to unless we push on it. The temp will get into the 300 range but not broiling.


Hi,

oven door not closing::

There are a number of reasons why you may find that your oven door won't close properly, and troubleshooting oven doors is not too complicated, so you should be able to manage this in a few hours. When you are trying to decide what is the cause of your oven door not shutting properly, you should be able to identify the different problems, and also understand how to repair the door without too much difficulty. If you find a lot of problems, then you may need to provide a different solution, for example replacing the door and fittings completely.
Latch is Broken This is perhaps the most common cause of the oven door not closing properly. The latch is supposed to connect to a hole in the oven itself, but sometimes the latch can become stuck, and it may also be improperly greased. If the latch is sticking, then you should try adding a drop of oil, and trying again. Other reasons for the latch not closing properly include dirt being trapped in the hole on the other side, or the latch itself being cracked and not fitting correctly into the hole. The latch can also be completely replaced if you find that you have repeated problems with it.


No heat but otherwise normal operation If the main power fuse is located in the primary of the high voltage transformer rather then at the line input, the clock and touchpad will work but the fuse will blow upon initiating a cook cycle. Or, if the fuse has already blown there will simply be no heating action once the cook cycle is started. There are other variations depending on whether the cooling fan, oven light, and so forth are located down stream of the fuse. Some models may have a separate high voltage fuse. If this is blown, there will be no heating but no other symptoms. However, high voltage fuses are somewhat rare on domestic ovens.
A number of failures can result in the fuse NOT blowing but still no heat:

  • Bad connections - these may be almost anywhere in the microwave generator or the primary circuit of the HV transformer. A common location is at the crimp connections to the magnetron filament as they are high current and can overheat and result in no or intermittent contact. See the section: See the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Open thermal protector - usually located on magnetron case. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms. See the section: Testing thermal protectors and thermal fuses.
  • Open thermal fuse - some ovens have one of these in the primary circuit. It may be in either connection to the HV transformer or elsewhere. Test for continuity. It should read as a dead short - near zero ohms.
  • Open HV capacitor - see the section: Testing the high voltage capacitor. A shorted HV capacitor would likely immediately blow the fuse.
  • Open HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
  • Open magnetron filament - This failure may also be due to loose, burnt, or deteriorated press (Fast-on) lugs for the filament connections and not an actual magnetron problem. See the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Open winding in HV transformer. See the section: Testing the high voltage transformer.
  • Defective HV relay. A few models use a relay in the actual high voltage circuitry (rather than the primary) to regulate cooking power. This may have dirty or burnt contacts, a defective coil, or bad connections
  • Shorted HV diode - see the section: Testing the high voltage diode.
  • Short or other fault in the magnetron - see the section: Testing the magnetron.
  • Short in certain portions of the HV wiring. See the section: Testing and repairing the wiring and connections.
A shorted HV diode, magnetron, or certain parts of the HV wiring would probably result in a loud hum from the HV transformer but will likely not blow the main fuse. (However, the HV fuse - not present on most domestic ovens - might blow.)
Depending on design, a number of other component failures could result in no heat as well including a defective relay or triac, interlock switch(s), and controller.
Timer and light work but no heat, cooling fan, or turntable rotation This means the controller thinks the oven is working but the microwave generator AND motors aren't being powered. Note that these symptoms are subtly different than just having no heat and eliminates the actual components of the microwave generator from suspicion in most cases.


Hope it helps

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Oct 28, 2010 | Thermador SMW272 Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

Flame on the gas fire is burning yellow and looks as though a draught is blowing on it


Hi lack of air is the problem burner needs cleaning there is dust in the primary air ports ..

Jan 10, 2010 | Frigidaire FGB24S5A Gas Single Oven

2 Answers

No display and no heat in oven


Hey worken_man
Try pressing the start button for about 15 seconds. If nothing happens its very likely that the transformer on the controller is busted. If you know how to get to the controller check the primary side (high voltage side) for open circuit. The easiest thing would be to change the controller and not fuss with changing the transformer

Regards

Sep 05, 2008 | Whirlpool RBD275PD Electric Double Oven

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