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I have a Rheemglas Fury model # 81VP207, no hot water it is in a trailer home. HELP

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I don't recognize the models number, if your water heater is an electric, check the two-pole circuit breaker in the distribution panel to make certain it has not tripped. If it has, try resetting it. If it will not reset, the heater element is probably bad. If the breaker has not tripped, either the thermostat(s) or heating element(s) are bad.
If it's gas, there are several problems that can cause a heater to not start. First is the pilot lit? If not, try holding the gas control down in the pilot position and light it using a match. (The instructions are on a label on the side of the heater). After the pilot lights, turn to "on" position and it will start to reheat the tank. If the pilot will not relight, either the gas control is failed, or (more likely) the thermocouple has failed. (The thermocouple is a very small copper tube that screws into the gas control and the other end is positioned in the flame of the pilot (it monitors the pilot flame to make certain the pilot is burning and only if satisfied, will allow the gas control to turn on and heat the water in the tank).
Hope this helps.

Posted on Dec 15, 2014

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SOURCE: Rheemglas Fury DV leaking?

Rachel,

I don't know if you have resolved your issue by changing the T&P relief valve. However, if you have replaced it and it appears to have resolved the problem ... it will most likely be only a temporary resolve. And what has happened, it that the water that was being relieved via the T&P valve is now unknowingly leaking / being relieved by a toilet or some other means.

The reason of the leak in the first place is that the most likely the water purveyor has recently installed a DCV (dual check valve) at or within the water meter location. Not knowing where you live, but we are in NC and these DVC's are being installed all over the country.

Basically, your home's plumbing system used to be an "open system" and not it is a "closed system". In earlier times, when the water heater cycled it heated the water, which cause the volume to thermally expand ... and the water was pushed backwards through the meter and it did not allow the water pressures to build. However, with the DCV installed ... now when the water heater cycles and expands water, with no place for the excess water volume to migrate, it now causes a hydraulic effect within the closed system ... which causes the water pressure to become elevated, ultiamtely being relieved at the T&P ...

Here are a couple of links from Watts ....that will help.
http://www.watts.com/pro/divisions/watersafety_flowcontrol/learnabout/learnabout_thermexpansion.asp

http://www.watts.com/pro/divisions/watersafety_flowcontrol/support/support_DETsizing.asp


Locally, we have been on the Cross Connection / Dual Check Valve crusade since early in 1991. We concur that the check valves warrant installation. However the Buidling / Plumbing Codes are not up to speed with truly what is going and how much damage to personal property is occurring with failed water lines ... both inside the home and outside.

Best, Gary H.

Hestand Associates / hestassoc@aol.com

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once they leak it's time for a new water heater. ther is no way to repair a tank leak

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SOURCE: How do I turn up

You have 2 thermostats inside of those covers, little things with a dial on them, turn them with a small screwdriver, Don't go too hot or you will be scalding everybody. Hope this helps.

Posted on Oct 05, 2010

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Open following link to troubleshoot cause and solutions for leaking water heater:
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It could be a thermocouple but first take the whole pilot assembly out and disassemble it. Clean it very good (compressed air is ok) especially the orifice inside the pilot horn. You may just have a weak pilot. If the flame is in good contact with the thermocouple and problem still exist, then change the thermocouple. I believe in doing the free things first.

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Brown discoloration is evidence of a rusting or corroded steel pipe somewhere in you plumbing system. Trace the water lines back from the faucet and replace all the steel pipe.
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Rheemglas Fury DV leaking?


Rachel,

I don't know if you have resolved your issue by changing the T&P relief valve. However, if you have replaced it and it appears to have resolved the problem ... it will most likely be only a temporary resolve. And what has happened, it that the water that was being relieved via the T&P valve is now unknowingly leaking / being relieved by a toilet or some other means.

The reason of the leak in the first place is that the most likely the water purveyor has recently installed a DCV (dual check valve) at or within the water meter location. Not knowing where you live, but we are in NC and these DVC's are being installed all over the country.

Basically, your home's plumbing system used to be an "open system" and not it is a "closed system". In earlier times, when the water heater cycled it heated the water, which cause the volume to thermally expand ... and the water was pushed backwards through the meter and it did not allow the water pressures to build. However, with the DCV installed ... now when the water heater cycles and expands water, with no place for the excess water volume to migrate, it now causes a hydraulic effect within the closed system ... which causes the water pressure to become elevated, ultiamtely being relieved at the T&P ...

Here are a couple of links from Watts ....that will help.
http://www.watts.com/pro/divisions/watersafety_flowcontrol/learnabout/learnabout_thermexpansion.asp

http://www.watts.com/pro/divisions/watersafety_flowcontrol/support/support_DETsizing.asp


Locally, we have been on the Cross Connection / Dual Check Valve crusade since early in 1991. We concur that the check valves warrant installation. However the Buidling / Plumbing Codes are not up to speed with truly what is going and how much damage to personal property is occurring with failed water lines ... both inside the home and outside.

Best, Gary H.

Hestand Associates / hestassoc@aol.com

Dec 24, 2008 | Water Heaters

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