Question about Baumatic BWE40 Wine Cooler

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How do I locate the sensor I the back of my baumatic bwe40 wine cooler , please.

I changed the one in the front section, but the one in rear is surrounded in insulation. Hence I need an approximate location so I can access it. Thanks

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Baumatic BW18 wine cooler; at

the soft humming your hearing could possibly be the compressor stalling.. this can come from a lack or freon. Now this is the first thing you should check as its one of the most common issues in all refrigerant systems.. to do this there is a check port that you connect a guage too and it will give the freon pressure. More than likely you will find it very low and needs re gassing.. before having it regassed I'd suggest that you have it checked for leaks as well ,, (it ran out of freon rather quickly no ??) have a technician come in and check these as he will have all the right tools and stuff needed for for the checking of gas pressure, the dye to check for leaks as well as the freon to regas it.. and if needed the solder to fix any leaks..

Posted on Sep 17, 2010

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SOURCE: BWE40 wine cooler. Is it safe to leave it switched on when code e2 is showing? Does code e2 distinguish which of the two sensors need replacing? Thanks.

e2 is a temperature sensor error code.
You would need a multimeter to test sensor and control board.
Either could be the problem

Posted on May 11, 2014

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How to set up a seven-speaker home theater system


Set up a home theater

How to connect your speakers

In order to deliver surround sound, home theater systems require 5, 6, or even 7 speakers--and that's not even counting the subwoofer. Connecting all those speakers together can be quite a challenge, so here's a quick overview of the basics.

If you don't have an all-in-one, home-theater-in-a-box system, you'll probably need to supply your own speaker cables. There are several different types available--they vary in terms of wire size (or gauges) and termination types. Make sure you pick cable that's a good match for your speakers and receiver. And make sure they're long enough; the rear-channel cables in particular will be stretching all the way around the room.

Once you've selected your system and have all your speakers ready to set up, begin by placing each speaker at or near its intended location. Then, attach the cables to them one by one. After securely fastening one end of the cable to the speaker, connect the other end to the appropriate speaker output on the back of the A/V receiver. Be sure to connect the cable to the correctly labeled output.

For instance, the front-right speaker wire needs to go to the terminal labeled front-right. Also, make sure that each speaker connection is in phase, meaning negative to negative and positive to positive. Otherwise, your system's sound will sound out of whack. Repeat the process for every speaker in your system. Note that the subwoofer uses a coaxial-style RCA cable instead of standard speaker wire.

Once all the wires are connected, you should test the system with several DVDs and CDs, to ensure that everything is in working order.

For our first example, we used an elaborate 7.1-channel system, so it may have 1, 2, or several more speakers than your system. Some systems even employ wireless rear speakers, or virtual surround-surround modes that simulate multichannel experience from 3, 2, or even 1 speaker. And some listeners still prefer good old stereo sound from 2 speakers. No matter what type of speaker setup you prefer, however, the wiring basics remain the same.

How to position surround-sound speakers and a subwoofer
To get the best performance from a surround-sound speaker system, you must install each speaker in the correct location. There are three basic types of surround-sound speaker systems.

  • The 5.1-channel system has five satellite speakers and a subwoofer.

  • 6.1-channel systems have six satellites and a subwoofer.

  • And 7.1-channel systems have seven satellites and a subwoofer.

Start by placing the center speaker either directly above or directly below your TV. The center speaker can be perched atop a direct-view TV or mounted on the wall. Aim the center speaker at ear level.

In most cases, the front-left and front-right speakers can be wall mounted or placed on stands. However, if your speakers have rear-panel bass ports, they should not be wall mounted. Space your front-left and front-right speakers the same distance apart as the distance between your center speaker and your listening position. Position the front-left and front-right speakers no more than two feet above or below the front-center speaker. The tweeters in the front-left and front-right speakers should be roughly at ear level relative to your seating position.

Ideally, the surround-left and surround-right speakers should be mounted on the side walls of your room, slightly behind or parallel to your listening position. If your speakers have rear-panel bass ports, place them on stands instead. If installing the speakers on the side walls isn't practical, you can mount them on the room's rear wall or place them on stands behind your listening position. The surround speakers can be installed up to two feet above the front speakers.

Also, 6.1 surround systems have a back-center speaker. You'll typically mount this on the rear wall of your room, centered behind your seating position. Position the back-center speaker no more than six feet behind the surround-left and surround-right speakers. If your speaker has a rear-panel bass port or if the rear wall is too far behind your seating position, place the back center speaker on a stand instead. The back-center speaker should be installed at the same height as the surround-left and surround-right speakers.

Instead of a single back speaker, 7.1 surround systems use a back-left and a back-right speaker. These, too, are typically mounted on the rear wall of your room. Position the back-left and back-right speakers so that each is approximately aligned with the left and right edges of your listening position. Place the back-left and back-right speakers no more than six feet behind the surround-left and surround-right speakers. If your speakers have rear-panel bass ports,or if the rear wall is too far behind your seating position, place the speakers on stands instead. Install the back-left and back-right speakers at the same height as the surround-left and surround-right speakers.

A subwoofer is the last component of a 5, 6, or 7.1 system. Because bass frequencies are nondirectional, you can place the subwoofer in various locations. You may get the best performance by installing the subwoofer in the front of the room, approximately six inches from the wall. If you want more bass, try placing the sub near a corner in the front of the room.

Connect your DVD player to your A/V receiver--digitally
To hear a movie's soundtrack in surround sound, you must first connect your DVD player to an A/V surround-sound receiver. You'll need to make what is called a multi-channel-compatible connection.

The easiest way to do this is to use a cable that carries a digital signal. There are two digital options: optical and coaxial.

An optical digital connection, also called TosLink, uses pulses of light to deliver a digital signal. According to some experts, one advantage of optical digital connections is that optical cables don't pick up noise, while lower-quality coaxial cables can. Many, but not all, DVD players have an optical output. Most A/V receivers have at least one and usually multiple optical inputs. Plug one end of the optical cable into the DVDs player's optical-out jack. Plug the other end into the receiver's optical input.

Finally, you need to tell your receiver to use the optical connection whenever you switch to the DVD input. This is called assigning the input. Information about this simple process can be found in your A/V receiver's manual.

A second option is a coaxial digital connection. This type of connection is also used for cable TV, but the connectors are different. This type of coaxial cable has an RCA connector. Coaxial cables are less expensive than optical ones. In fact, you can use any old RCA cable to make a coaxial digital connection, and you won't lose any audio quality.

Most, but not all, DVD players, have a coaxial output. Some have coaxial and optical outputs, so you get a choice. Audiophiles argue over which connection is better, but it's very hard to hear the difference. Most A/V receivers have at least one and usually multiple coaxial inputs. Plug one end of the coaxial cable into the DVD player's coaxial-out jack. Plug the other end into the receiver's coaxial input.

Finally, tell your receiver to use the coaxial connection whenever you switch to the DVD input. Again, your A/V receiver's manual will have instructions for assigning an input.

on Aug 13, 2010 | Audio Players & Recorders

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How do I replace the thermostat switch on a Zanussi ZCE 7701CH? I have removed the screws for the side panels at the rear but cannot access the screws for the side panels at the front. The Product No...


Hi,the problem you are encountering is as a result of the fact that the thermostat which regulates the cooling temperature in the fridge/freezer is bad hence there is no regulation of the cooling temperature in the fridge/freezer section, hence the food in the fridge freezes up.

The solution is to replace the thermostat of the unit,here is how you go about it;

1.You have to disconnect the fridge from the power source.
2.Locate the thermostat at the bottom of the unit,at the top left corner above the condenser.
3.Now you need to locate the wire ends or wire harness and unplug them.
4.Replace the thermostat,reconnect it back,put the back cover back and you have completed the job.

Take care of yourself

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3.0L 2 valve or 4 valve? Not easy repair.

SECTION 303-01A: Engine - 3.0L (2V) 2002 Taurus/Sable Workshop Manual
IN-VEHICLE REPAIR Engine Support Insulator
Special Tool(s) s2h~us~en~file=st2333a.gif~gen~ref.gif 3 Bar Engine Support Kit
303-F072 s2h~us~en~file=st1831a.gif~gen~ref.gif Lifting Eyes
303-D030 (D81L-6001-D) or equivalent
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  1. Remove the LH front wheel assembly.
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Section 04-01: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front 1996 Windstar Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Stabilizer Bar Removal
  1. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Section 00-02 .
  1. Support vehicle with hoist or safety stands behind front sub-frame (5C145).
  1. stw~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: To avoid damage to the 6 mm drive hole in the front stabilizer bar link ball stud, do not use an Allen wrench to break loose or tighten or final tighten the front stabilizer bar link-to-shock absorber nut.
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  1. Using care not to damage the front stabilizer ball link stud seal, remove the RH and LH front stabilizer bar link-to-front stabilizer bar nut.
  1. stw~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage the ball joint boot.
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Installation
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  1. Lubricate inside diameter of new stabilizer bar bracket insulator with Rubber Suspension Insulator Lube E25Y-19553-A meeting Ford specification ESF-M99B112-A or equivalent. Do not use any mineral or petroleum based lubricants as they will deteriorate the rubber stabilizer bar bracket insulators.
  1. Install new stabilizer bar bracket insulators onto front stabilizer bar and position them in approximate location.
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  1. stw~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: To avoid damage to the 6 mm drive hole in the front stabilizer bar link ball stud, do not use an Allen wrench to break loose or tighten or final tighten the front stabilizer bar link-to-shock absorber nut.
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  2. 66a0f1a.gif

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Sounds like your heating element may be burned out. On initial start, if the drum rotates, and you have blower air flow but no heat, I would suspect that the heating coil (element) has an "open" in it, i.e., it has literally burned through at one location in the coil, usually at or near one of the support insulators mounted on in the interior rear of the dryer. To replace, access to the interior of the dryer from the front is necessary. Take care installing the replacement coil in that any residual tension on the coiled element at any location along its length will, over time, result in premature, stressed-induced, thermal fatique of the coil. To avoid premature failure, all sections of coil between support insulators should be completely relaxed after installation and prior to initial heating.

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You didn't specify whether you have the (4) cylinder or the (6) cylinder engine..... I have a 2004 Hyundai Sonata 2.4L 4 cylinder and I just changed the spark plugs in it. I believe that the 2005 2.4L engine is the same. To locate and change the (4) spark plugs on a 2004 Hyundai 2.4L 4 cylinder engine: Remove the (4) 12mm bolts from the decorative plastic engine cover. Remove plastic cover from engine and place it off to the side out of your way. Standing in front of the car, the (4) spark plugs are located laterally (left to right) in the recessed area underneath where the plastic engine cover was removed. Note: This engine has (2) coils....They are located above spark plugs number (2) and (3) from left to right. Starting with the fist spark plug on the left: Remove the spark plug cable by pulling straight up on the insulated connector. Using a spark plug socket, remove the old spark plug and install a new one in it's place. To access the second spark plug from the left, remove the electrical connector and the spark plug cable wire from coil number (1) and then remove the (2) 12mm bolts that secure the coil to the engine. Spark plug number (2) is located directly under the coil. Lift the coil straight up removing the insulated connector from spark plug number (2). Using a spark plug socket, remove old spark and install a new one in it's place. Repeat same procedures for spark plugs number (3) and (4). Note: If you have the (6) cylinder engine, the front (3) sparks pluge are readilly accessible but in order to access the (3) rear spark plugs, you will have to remove the intake manifold

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Front Sway bar(Stabilizer bar)


please give good rating if this helps


Section 04-01: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front 1996 Taurus, Sable Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Stabilizer Bar Removal
  1. Raise vehicle on a hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .
  1. Support vehicle with hoist or safety stands behind front sub-frame (5C145).
  1. sth~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to tighten nut, or bearing and seal damage will result. Install nut using hex hold feature to prevent the stud from rotating.
    Remove and discard nuts retaining stabilizer bar link (5K484) assembly to front stabilizer bar (5482) and front shock absorber (18124) with an 8 mm closed-end wrench and an 18 mm open-end wrench.


    ccf2026.gif

  1. Remove nuts retaining steering gear (3504) to front sub-frame, and move steering gear off the front sub-frame.
  1. With another set of support safety stands under front sub-frame, remove two rear subframe retaining bolts. Lower rear of the front sub-frame to obtain access to stabilizer bar brackets (5486).




  1. Remove front stabilizer bar U-bracket bolts and replacestabilizer bar brackets and/or front stabilizer bar as required. Discard lower suspension arm stabilizer bar insulator (5493) and bolts.
Installation
  1. Clean front stabilizer bar to remove dirt and contamination in area of stabilizer bar insulator installation position.
  1. Lubricate inside diameter of new lower suspension arm stabilizer bar insulator with Rubber Suspension Insulator Lube E25Y-19553-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESF-M99B112-A. Do not use any mineral or petroleum based lubricants as they will deteriorate the rubber lower suspension arm stabilizer bar insulators.
  1. Install new lower suspension arm stabilizer bar insulators onto front stabilizer bar and position them in approximate location.
  1. Install stabilizer bar bracket on front sub-frames and install new bolts. Tighten to 30-40 Nm (22-29 lb-ft).
  1. Raise front sub-frame and install new front sub-frame-to-body retaining bolts. Position steering gear onto front sub-frame and install retaining nuts. Tighten to 115-135 Nm (85-99 lb-ft).
  1. sth~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif CAUTION: Use extreme care not to damage boot seal. Do not use power tools to tighten nut, or bearing and seal damage will result. Install nut using hex hold feature to prevent the stud from rotating.
    Install stabilizer bar link to front shock absorber and to front stabilizer bar, making sure that the stabilizer bar link is properly positioned. The letters "Top LH" and "Top RH" are moulded into the stabilizer bar link for correct assembly to the front shock absorber strut.
  1. Install new nuts and secure stabilizer bar link assembly to front stabilizer bar and front shock absorber. Tighten to 77-103 Nm (57-75 lb-ft) at front shock absorber strut and 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft) at front stabilizer bar.
  1. Remove safety stands.
  1. Lower vehicle.

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1 Answer

How can i replace it?


http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

it's usually called the trans mount cause that's what's on that side.

Section 02-03: Engine and Transaxle Mounting 1997 Villager Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Support Insulator, Front Transaxle Removal
  1. Remove the battery (10655). Refer to Section 14-01 for the removal procedure.
  2. Remove the Engine Air Cleaner (ACL) (9600). Refer to Section 03-12 for the removal procedure.
  3. Remove the radiator coolant recovery reservoir (8A080). Refer to Section 03-03 for the removal procedure.
  4. Remove the battery tray (10732). Refer to Section 14-01 for the removal procedure.
  5. Support the transaxle with a floor jack.
  6. Remove the front transaxle support insulator through bolt and nut.
  7. Remove the three front transaxle support insulator bolts and the front transaxle support insulator.
-----------------------------------------------------------
Support Insulator, Rear Transaxle Removal
  1. Remove the rear transaxle support bracket. Refer to the procedure in this section.
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  1. Remove the three rear transaxle support insulator nuts.




  1. Lower the vehicle.
  1. Remove the rear transaxle support insulator from the vehicle.

Mar 29, 2009 | 1997 Mercury Villager

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