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Pull the pedal back up as the problem is air in the system. You may have to do this until the air starts to move out of the system. IT would be advisable to prime the master cylinder before fitting it as this overcomes the problem of trying to get the cylinder to pump up.
Order Slider Release (7.93, vacpartswarehouse) Pull off 'tank.' Remove 3 Screws for Foot Detent Lever. Pull off. Remove old slider release and spring (verify it's broke.) Replace with new. I just did this today after a year of dealing with it.
It may help to have some simple advice about how to shift. You can only shift while the chain is moving. And the chain is only moving when you are pedaling. If you move the levers while the chain is not moving, it is no big deal unless you are very forceful with the shift lever. The bike will simply try to shift once you start pedaling. However, in all cases when shifting it is best to be pedaling very lightly. You want the chain to be moving, but you don't want to be pedaling hard and therefor pulling hard on the chain - that makes shifting very rough and you can hurt yourself.
So, you want to shift to a lower gear as you approach an uphill, not while you are already pedaling hard trying to climb it. On the other hand, shifting to higher gears is usually pretty easy since you can always pedal lightly as you are moving fast.
One more thing. If this bike has it's original freewheel (that's the gear cluster on the back wheel) it is likely to be of the old style simple tooth design. These old freewheels are harder to shift than the new ones (basically they are more difficult to shift under pedal pressure than the new ones.) The newer (since around the mid 80's) freewheels have twisted teeth and little indentations in the face of each gear making it a whole lot easier for the chain to climb onto the next larger (lower) gear. If you have the old style freewheel you will be amazed at how much better the new ones work. If you do replace it, replace the chain too.
I hope you found this helpful
I have tried to find the details about the adapter required for this pedal. I am NOT sure that any replacement adapter other than a genuine Behringer one will work on it. I am not sure if it even takes a DC type adapter.
PLEASE compare the OUTPUT of your busted one on the label to the new one. Pay particular attention if the old one said 9VAC or 9VDC. If old is 9VAC then MOST replacement adapters intended for pedals WILL NOT WORK.
Another problem is the amount of filtering required. If the old one was a switching regulator type it would be well filltered and if your new one is not, you will get noise out of the unit and maybe not much else.
I spent nearly an hour trying to find specs for a replacement to drive this pedal and there just doesn't seem to be any on the web. So the best suggestion is to compare the markings on the old and new.
The spring broke on my S40 clutch pedal too.
The old spring looks like a modified volvo part since none of the S40 clutch pedal springs at Volvo spares looks exactly the same as the one that broke. The one that broke looks similar to the replacement part that I bought, but one can clearly see that the old one was cut shorter at the other end and bent over to make it fit onto the clutch pedal mechanism. This is absolutely pathetic. I am taking it to Volvo to fix their rubbish themselves - and then they are still going to charge me R750 ($100) to replace a stupid spring! By the way, Volvo always wants the vehicle VIN number when buying spares because some of their cars (of the same year and model) use different parts - CAN YOU BELIEVE THIS! By the way, I am replacing the spring to pull the pedal all the way back - otherwise if I start the car in the mornings then the pedal is nearly on the floor when the car starts moving. If I pull the pedal back with my foot , then all is back to normal. I am scared that I may have no clutch after some time - so I will rather replace it.
it is on the pedal frame under the dash lower cover, unscrew the torx (T20 I think) screws holding it on, get your head under the wheel and with a light look up the brake pedal, it is held to the frame by 13mm nuts one either side of the metal pull off the wires (you might join them and check if it is faulty first) and unscrew the nut on the other end and pull out the switch, pre adjust the new switch the same as the old one and re fit
There May be a RETURN Spring for the Padal, other than that The Switch MUST Be out of ADJUSTMENT Try Adjusting it the Other Direction its My Experience that the Further Away from pedal the Closer to ON the Switch is
On your Vehicle it May Be Different though But TRY IT Hope it Fixes the Problem
I assume you mean the pedal on the back of the transmission, if so, if has come apart, there is a piece that is pressed onto the shaft. Best to replace the pedal assm., the old one may not stay together anymore, you will have to pull the transmission out to replace it.