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How to wire a MY2NJ 110V relay

How to wire 110 volts from thermostat to relay to power a heat element

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  • Brad Brown Dec 13, 2014

    Hi Dennis Huber, I want to help you with your question, but I need more information from you. Can you please add details in the comment box? make and model of devices

  • Dennis Huber
    Dennis Huber Dec 15, 2014

    The application for this relay is not for an appliance. I want to use it to power a 100 W heat element and need a schematic for wiring.

  • Brad Brown Dec 16, 2014

    I understand but it would be nice to know model numbers of what you are using for thermostat and relay

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  • Dryers Master
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Http://www.instructables.com/id/Space-heater-controlled-by-digital-thermostat/step2/Schematic/ The transformer in this diagram is a little high on the voltage side. Your relay uses 24 Volts.

Posted on Dec 16, 2014

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How to connect wires on a roper dryer heating


If memory serves, there are only two wires that connect to the heating element. The two wires are the common and one of the hot leads from the 220-240 volt power source. The center wire coming from the big power cord that plugs into the wall outlet, is the common,. and the other two each provide 110-120 volts AC, which are slightly out of phase with each other.One of them provides 110v to the motor, & control circuits, and the other to the heating element. I f I remember this hook up correctly, it doesn't really matter which wire connects to which terminal, as the element is isolated from the chassis of the dryer. I truly hope this is helpful to you. I've repaired several of these monsters, and haven't had one go to spark & smoke city yet. :)

Oct 13, 2014 | Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer does not heat


Find a volt-ohm meter you can use.
Unplug the dryer and test the socket on the wall or on the floor for current. If If you have a 3 pronged socket, the two slanted slots should have 110 volts each, and the "L'' shaped slot is your ground.
If you have a 4 pronged socket, the two straight slots are 110 volts each, and the "L" shaped and the round slots are grounded.
If you do not have 110 volts showing on both slots, you likely have a blown circuit-breaker to reset at your fuse box.

Depending on the year of the dryer, you have the following things to check inside the back of your dryer.
Wiring, for burnt or broken wires, the heating element for a broken wire, and 2,3,4, or 5 thermostats.
Unplug your dryer and remove the back so you can see all the wires and the above parts.
One at a time, remove the wires from each thermostat and see if the thermostst is blown.
You can tell by setting the volt-ohm meter to ohm's resistance, that's the "Infinity" sign.
Check the heating element the same way.
If the thermostat and heating element are good, the needle will go up on the meter. If one is bad, the needle on the meter will remain motionless.
Each of the thermostats and the heating element are removeable, and replaceable.
Be blessed.

Jan 24, 2013 | Dryers

1 Answer

On a whirlpool clothes dryer I have no heat but I tested for power at both terminals on element and I have 110 volts on both wires going in and element tests proper 10 ohms resistance


Hi,


You need to have 220-240 volts across the two ends...you can have 110v on each end becuase it feeds through the element...


If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.



if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....



If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.



check out this electric no heat tip...


heatman101

Jan 15, 2011 | Dryers

1 Answer

Lg rd3500 147* not working what doooooooo


Well first of all, I checked the manual, and this is not in there.
I was drying my clothes and it stopped working. The lights in the ring that choose what kind of a load you want...well the first three are blinking. The second two are not. It will not let me choose a load or drying time, and if I press start, the thing inside goes around once and then stops. I looked in the filter basket and there's nothing in there and I wiped the sheet off.
Now the lights aren't blinking and I can choose an option, but it only goes for like a minute and then stops
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. LEG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm check instead.
1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.

2-Canister for the heater element.

3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.

4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.

5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.

6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.

7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.

please comment on these solution by saying how helpful.mean vote.

Dec 23, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

The bottom heating element is only getting 110 volts. When checked with meter it shows a complete circuit. But the meter slowly decreases in the circuit check.


There is 110V on the lower element at all times.
That's because water heater thermostats only turn off 1 leg of the 220V circuit.
If upper-or-lower thermostat is bad, one thing that happens is the lower element reads 110V all the time and never tests for 240.

To solve the problem, replace both thermostats.
Or test the thermostats to see which one is bad.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

Oct 28, 2010 | Jasco Ge 7 Day Digital Timer 1 Outlet...

1 Answer

My dryer is no longer heating up and it does not time out, what parts would i need to fix the problems?


Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug
Whirlpool style dryer - no heat problems:

Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya

Feb 27, 2010 | Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

The oven elements don't heat up. Checked and no


sounds like ur control board is not sending ur other 110 volts to thhe other side or ur relay whether internal on the board or not is messed up

Feb 23, 2010 | Frigidaire FEF326 Electric Kitchen Range

2 Answers

My kenmore electric dryer is not heating I checked the heating coil and it seems ok could it be one of the thermostats?


Kenmore style dryer - no heat problems:
Electric dryers - See the "how to take apart" section first if needed. Always check the power supply first...if one house fuse blows or 1/2 of the breaker trips, it is possible for the dryer to run with no heat. If you have a volt meter, you should read 240 volts between the red and black wires, 120 volts between the white and black and 120 volts between white and red, check for this at the main power connection. If you have 240 volts to the dryer, remove rear access panel, turn dryer on and test for 240 volts to the *heating element wire connections (#4). If you have 240 volts there and no heat = bad element, the element must be broken physically to be bad. If you have no power at the heating element, remove power, remove wires to the heating element and isolate them so that they can't touch anything. Reinstall power and check each wire for power from the wire to the dryer cabinet, one wire will probably show 120 volts and the other will show zero. Make note of the color or # of the wire that has no power, remove power to the dryer and check the wiring diagram that comes with the dryer to find out where that color or # wire goes to. EG: - wires might be yellow and red, if the yellow wire (example only) was the one that had no power, look at the wiring diagram to find out where that goes to and check only those parts, no need to check the other colored wire parts as they are working. Things to check are, *thermostats, timer contacts, selector switch, motor switch heat contacts ( 1&2 on the motor switch ) and *thermal fuse. If the wires to the heating element are the same color, just remove power after test and slowly follow that wire that has no power with your hand to see what parts it goes to. If live volt testing scares you, try the ohm checkinstead.
*#1-Thermal fuse that controls heat. If the dryer overheats, this fuse will blow. One shot fuse. Does not reset.
#2-Canister for the heater element.
#3-Hi limit thermostat. This thermostat is a safety thermostat in case the dryer severely overheats. When this safety thermostat is defective, it should raise a red flag for air flow problems.
#4-This is the terminals of the heater element that is inside the canister.
#5-Thermal fuse that controls motor run.
#6-Control thermostat. This is the thermostat that controls the cycling of the heater in high heat mode.
#7-Heater for low heat. When you select low heat, 110V is sent to this heater that the control thermostat sits in. The heater helps cycle the control thermostat faster, therefore you get less heat than the high heat mode.Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:
- house fuse or breaker ( needs two of them ), heating element, burnt wire, thermostat(s), thermal fuse ( not all models ), motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, burnt power cord/plug.
A ohm meter test for these parts is here.


Jul 11, 2009 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

The heating element won't get hot? Each wire to the element is getting 110v, but when checked together i am not getting 220v to the element?


Hi: 220 volts to a dryer are two 110 volts combined. Two separate wires. Did you check the heating element? See if it's broken. If so replace it. FIRST, Another thing to check is your circuit breaker. If it has only one side blown you will show 110 volts but that's all the dryer will get and dry slowly. The washer will still work as it's only 110v. I hopes this helps, Jeff

Jun 07, 2009 | Kenmore 88752 Top Load Stacked Washer /...

1 Answer

Kenmore Dryer Model 110 Heating Element & Thermostat


believe that model has a relay under console..pull console end caps off remove screw on each end roll console back..if your model has an electronic bd it also has a heat relay it will be the one with 2 large red wires.. a quick ck would be to unplug power remove the red wires and tape bear ends together pug back up turn on dryer if it heats unplug and exchange the 2 relays the one with the blue wires is the motor relay and is same as heat relay try again if motor fails to start bad relay if motor starts bad control bd

Aug 09, 2008 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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