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Re: trying to wire up a copelamatic 1 phase walkin...
Check the power rating of the freezer and ensure the trip is of the correct rating read section C regarding this in the manual that came with your freezer. I could well be the fuse rating on the cirucit is two low to withstand the power of the freezer so it will need to be upgraded. speak to a qualified electrican to ensure this is done safely.
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Peple often want to put 1500watt amplifiers, with no consideration of the amount of power it draws from your battery and alternator, then you notice your headlight dim down everytime the sub woofers hit, make sure you add up how much power its gonna draw out of your regular charging system, to get the most out of any big watts amplifier do the Math, upgrade accordingly,its not how much you can get out the subwoofers set up n wiring, but how clean from distortion and phase sync with the rest of the system, if out of phase youll hear one driver sooner or later than the others , anyhow..1 Faraday capacitor. , before any amp will give you the juice to get the most out of any amplifier,s i think every single driver should have its own amp, syncronize and in phase (parametrics equalizer was use back in the old school dayz.i talk to much peace.
as 240 volts is single phase , it will not be possible to reduce the power by cutting across a neutral wire ( 240 volt power out and 240 volt neutral return That is ac power ) to do what you want to do you will need a 3 phase generator so that you can jump across a phase to get lower power
3-phase is a way to supply more power on similar wires. If your oven is designed to be run off 3-phase, then it will need that. I've not seen any residential ovens wired that way, though. What makes you think it's wired 3-phase? If you are in the US, it's likely wired for 230v, which is 3 wires, but not 3-phase.
No. You have to find out if you have 3 phase or single phase power. If this is a new unit you will find a wiring diagram inside the front cover. 3 phase power has 3 "hot" wires. Single phase has 2 "hot" wires. There is a big difference when you hook it up wrong. I don't know if this is a new installation or if you are replacing an old one. The terminals are numbered for 3 phase. If you look in your breaker box, 3 phase 208 will haven a breaker with 3 spaces hooked together by one bar. Single phase will have two spaces hooked together by a bar. So if the breaker kicks out it will flip all 3 space on 3 phase or 2 spaces on single phase. If you already have wires to the location of the booster heater, you may have to use single phase if that is all that is at that location. If you have single phase power you will have to look at the wiring diagram and you will see the terminal block represented for both single and 3 phase. Normally running from the terminal block will be six wires marked 1 through 6. The wireing diagram will say something like "for single phase put 1,3,5 on terminal 1 and 2,4,6 on terminal 3. Leave terminal 2 out all together. Of course at this point your 2 hot wires will go to terminal 1 and 3. There are other considerations as well. With 3 phase the circuit wires will be smaller gauge and may not carry the current you need for single phase. This is a booster heater. You need to hook up your hot water line to go into the heater and the boosted hot water to your appliance. It will not work to heat your water for other purposes. It is meant to take 140 degree water and boost it to 190 degrees. Good luck, hope this helps
It is the defrost terminator terminal. It is connected to a thermodisc, like a Klixon device. When the evap temp. reaches a preset temp. it forces the termination of the defrost cycle. http://www.victory-refrig.com/index.htm
Go to this site as it has wiring diagrams of freezers. check out the VF-1 freezer diagram.
Hope this helps.
I assume you have 3 phase power where this is going? The panel has 3 legs, 2 are 110 volt and one is 208 volt, you will need a tester to find out which is which if it is not marked, the motor should have a map on it for the wires to attach to, they go the same way, two, 110 and one, 208, I hope this helps, There will be one wire for a ground or a solid wire separate from the unit.
take your ignition module to a car shop, the shops i know all have these testers.
i do think its faulty but get it tested.
i test them by using an oscilliscope, very expensive.
if not sure i then tset the phase sensor, i dont think you can as im sure a multimeter wont go low enough
on module, you have a 12 volt supply, earth, then phase signal, then a 5 volt amplified comes out.
get a meter and stick on to low tension on coil.
12 volt when on
5 up and down when cranking.
if very low it is the module or power to module
more likely module.
if in doubt get back to me.