Question about GE Dryers

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How do I replace the plastic trim around the dryer door

On a GE Dryer DWSR483EGOWW the inside rim of the door the plastic rim is breaking, how do I replace it.

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  • 32 Answers

You have to first remove the door assembly. Then the screws that hold that whole panel in should be obvious. I do not think you can replace just the seal, the whole panel has to be replaced. I included a link so you can see that assembly.

Parts for GE DWSR483EG0WW Front Panel Door Parts

Posted on Dec 18, 2014

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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exspert
  • 55 Answers

SOURCE: Blue dye under three seperators inside dryer drum.

ok " you would have to pull the drum to get at those screws

what I would do is use a tooth brush with some bleach
that should take care of it.

Posted on Jan 23, 2008

FRANKSFIXIT
  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: Squeeking noise

Here's a possible troubleshooting fix I just sent to someone else that quite possibly has the same problem you have there now.

Hope it helps you out as well, as it is a bit long, but I'll post the whole reply I sent them and you can use whatever parts of it that will work for you.

Hi,

My name is Frank...

Regarding your possibly broken dryer.

I'm hoping that this info below helps you out even though I know I won't be able to repair/fix your dryer myself personally. Reason why - I'll explain further down.

I've repaired a few gas dryers & washing machines as well in my time. I can honestly say that I'm as close to being an expert as they come - esp when it comes to making repairs on existing dryer parts that can no longer be purchased as they are either obsolete, or way over-priced.

This is what I do for a semi-retired hobby, and sideline self-employed FIX-IT business. Named appropriately - FRANK'S FIX-IT SHOP. It's only an online fix it at present. Keeps me busy instead of being bored to death.

Electric clothes dryers are typically made the same as gas dryers - as to the mechanical drum part. Only thing different in a gas unit is the 110VAC electrical igniter or element, and the gas delivery system that provides the drying heat to the dryer itself.

All else is basically the same...

In an electric clothes dryer all the power comes from the 220VAC source as to the heating element, etc. The mechanical parts are typically the same as that of a gas dryer.

Having said this - the problem with your dryer can only have one of possibly 2 things wrong with it - seeings it's no doubt 220VAC totally electric, unless you actually have gas where you are there, which is rare in Florida these days!

If after you start the drying cycle you quickly open the dryer door, and you notice the drum is actually rotating - until there is the loss of electric power via a safety door switch that kills electric power to the drum motor activity - then there is NOT a problem with a broken drum belt.

If your dryer is older then say 10-15 years, and you really use it alot - then maybe there's a possibility of a broken drum belt (cost is around $10-15 for a new belt part depending on model - usually - and that does not include labor to install it).

Usually you'll hear the motor whining, but no drum 'noise' or movement. Dead giveaway as to a broken belt.

I had replaced 2 belts and 1 IDLER wheel on my own 30+ year old gas Kenmore dryer before selling it, and then picked up a more recent newer model GE washer & gas dryer that someone was just giving away for free. My 30+ year old Kenmore washer had just died on me at the same time is why I upgraded. Can't pass up a great freebie deal like that everyday! Never had to fix anything on my Kenmore washer during the time I owned it - it was GREAT!! I miss it dearly now.....

Though they were both newer GE models I really don't care for GE anything, as I think they are poorly built, as well as is their refrigerator brands as well.

Don't buy GE anything if you don't have to!! You heard it here from me and I know. My GE washer already broke a belt not even being 8-9 years old, and it was hell to replace, and never worked right afterwords as for the water pump part. Very POOR design! Oh well...

The gas dryer works fine, but the lint collector is not anywhere as good as my old Kenmore was. Poor design in my opinion.

I'm looking for another Kenmore or Whirlpool (set) model now, as they are the best. Kenmores are made by Whirlpool btw, just in case you didn't know that. The best in the business!

As to your other possible noise scenario -

The only other weird noise scenario you'll experience if it's a Kenmore dryer is when the drum "spring loaded track IDLER wheel" goes bad. This drum IDLER wheel is located under the drum itself at the back part of the drum and rides in a groove in the drum itself. It also helps to stabilize and counter-balance the drive belt-loaded turning drum that rides on this drum IDLER wheel as it turns. If your dryer does have the rear drum IDLER wheel system, then it just depends on the make and model. Kenmores & Whirlpools are designed this way. Very good design I might add!!

Some, or all GE dryer models may have a rear drum centering bearing assy instead - and in addition to - a front (Support, 3 glide front drum bearing part# 2359 & a Drum front slide bearing part# 2305 times 3 needed). If this/these front support/slide bearing part(s) goes bad usually the "felt duct" will need to be replaced as well. It not only helps to seal and quiet the drum that runs on the Support part, but it also helps to keep clothes from getting in-between the Support C part and helps prevent clothes from getting damaged. If those (3) friction sliders wear out or fall out, and take out or damage the "felt duct" as well, then the noise will be horrendously LOUD.

The front part of the GE drum models usually rides on a separate front panel support assy which can be made of a plastic C shaped device with anti-friction pad strips to help in frictionless rotation of the drum. A cheap but pretty effective design that does away with a front IDLER wheel, or pair of IDLER wheels as it were at the front of the dryer's frame which houses the door assy as well.

Though my Kenmore replacement drum IDLER wheel only cost me around $17 many years ago I see they now are anywhere in the $30+ range. Ouch! If it's the GE rear bearing assy that has gone bad - another Ouch as that part runs around $50+. Just depends on where you are and parts availability.

Most Kenmore/Whirlpool model dryers with the rear spring loaded drum IDLER wheel design do not have a ball bearing design, but rather have a typical cheaper brass bushing design instead, and when the grease lubricant dries out or they become dirty from picking up dirt in the air such as lint from the drum, etc then they begin to SQUEAL or WHINE very loudly.

The longer this goes on like this the hotter the drum IDLER track wheel gets until it melts the "typically" molded plastic housing, and then it really makes a lot of noise, and could actually lend to the drum belt breaking - as due from the added friction & stress from the binding wheel. It can also damage the front "felt duct" material as well. I had to repair mine as best I could as they had n factory replacement part that I knew off.

The only other mechanical parts that could possibly make any squealing type noise would be the electric belt drive motor or the heat blower motor being gas or electric. If the heat blower motor uses a cheaper brass sleeve shaft bushing bearing that would be rare, but could be a noise source as well. The belt drive motor rarely rarely would ever go bad!!

I hope this info helps to narrow down your problem if you are not able to at least open the top up to inspect the dryer yourself. Always unplug the 110VAC power before opening any cover or panel part up though!

That will not only prevent any electrical shock hazard, but will also keep the gas from turning on by mistake - as by solenoid design - if your dryer is gas.

I suspect this is what's wrong with your dryer.

Again - I hope the info helps you out...

Best regards,

Frank

Posted on Mar 05, 2008

  • 161 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer replacement timer knob for GE NBR453EAOWW

Go to the junk yard or a used appliance dealer.

Posted on Jun 29, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: zippers get caught in seal around dryer door and twist around and break off

I had the same problem with zippers and socks. Solution was as simple as replacing the felt seal at the top of the dryer door.The drum rides on the felt seal that has plastic guides imbedded in it. It's function is to seal and more importantly act as a guide for the drum.
Check the drum at the front edge if the gap around it is not the same or if the drum is wobbley when you lift it by hand that is probably the problem.
You will need to open the dryer cabinet. Mine had 2 catch springs at the front top edges that were released by pressing with a thin flat object that will fit between the top and bottom cabinet(butter knife). Once the top can be lifted you may find a couple of screws that secure the front panel and door. Once removed the front panel can be popped off and lifted out (careful of door switch wires).At this point you csn see the felt at the top of the door . It is glued in place and is easily removed. your local appliance part supplier can supply you with a replacement that comes with the glue and installation instructions.
Put the dryer back together and no more burnt socks and ruined zippers.

Posted on Mar 04, 2009

  • 240 Answers

SOURCE: My Kenmore 90 dryer door keeps popping open

best way is to take door off and take it apart, metal tabs inside hold firm to door body.

Posted on May 03, 2009

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The most probable thing causing the door to pop open isa weak/broken door catch, its very easy to replace. To find it look on the mid center door rim opposite the hinged side,you will see a rectangular shaped plastic piece,thats the door catch.To remove it use a screwdriver and pop it out by placing the screwdriver on the inside rim of it and prying it out. To install the new one line it up and pop it in by pressing on it with your thumb,when you get the part it will come with the rectangle peice and the peice that fits in door,the part that fits in door is probably going to be good and no reason to replace. The part # is 279570 it could be found on line by simply entering that part# in a google search

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