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not exact, to charge apropiate needs 10% more than nominal voltage. if not, will not charge the batteries.
And the charger its very important because you can over charge the battery.An example,if you have a 12 Amps Batteries each one if you put it in series will be 24 Volts.at parallel conection will be 12 volts but the double of Amps.
At serial connection will be 12 Volts the amps will be the same but the volts will be 24.
The charger at 12 Volts must be 13.8-14.5 DC Volts and divide the Amps in Hours.
The charger at 24 Volts must be 26-28 Volts. to charge well.
The charger for 12 amps batt example must charge 2 amps per hour at 6 hours = 12 Amps.(2 Amps Charger by 6 Hours Charging= 12 Amps.(Fully Charged.
3 Amperes Charger needs 4 Hours to charge 12 amps Batt.
5 Amperes Charger needs 2 Hours charging an a quarter
All of this is at DC Current.
This information expands upon the error code information contained in the Link 2000 Owner?s Manual.
E-01 Inverter high DC/Battery voltage shutdown Battery voltage has risen above 15.5 VDC for 12-volt models or 31 VDC for 24-volt models.
E-02 Inverter low DC/Battery voltage shutdown Battery voltage has dropped below 10 VDC for 12-volt units or 20 VDC for 24-volt units.
E-03 Inverter or Charger overtemp shutdown Unit will reset automatically after it has cooled sufficiently.
E-04 Battery overload Caused by excessively discharged batteries. See section in inverter owner?s manual titled ?Charging overdischarged batteries.?
E-05 AC Backfeed AC power from an outside source has been fed to the AC output of the inverter. Potentially damaging to the unit. Disconnect incoming AC power and correct the situation.
E-06 Electronic Overload Inverter overload caused by too large a load or a short circuit. Reset by cycling power switch or connecting incoming AC power.
E-07 Triac control error Triac has overheated. Shut down unit and allow to cool.
E-08 High battery voltage shutdown during charge mode Check all charging sources for proper voltage. Reset by cycling the power switch.
E-10 Link 2000 de-powered This indicates that power was removed and restored to the Link 2000.
E-12 Battery #1 voltage sense leads open Blue wire is not connected to battery #1.
E-13 Battery #2 voltage sense leads open Violet wire is not connected to battery #2. E-14 Inappropriate Charged V selected for sensed voltage This value defaults to 13.2 for a 12-volt system, 26.4 for a 24-volt system. If this setting is above the voltage limits of the charging source, this error code will be displayed. Please refer to page 9 of the Link 2000 Owner?s Manual
E-15 Incoming AC polarity reversed Check incoming AC wiring for a reverse polarity condition.
CCC Indicates battery being charged. Displayed when Time remaining is selected. LO BAT More than 50% of declared capacity of battery 1 or battery 3 has been consumed.
OL Meter reading out of range U xx Designates a user setup CEF. Please read the sections pertaining to CEF on pages 19?22. A Designates Alternator output current on a Link 2000-R. is a number from 1?200. P Indicates Percent of charge mode selected. is a number from 1?100.
An unloaded reading of 10 Volts on a 12 Volt car battery is considered dead. There are 6 cells in a typical lead acid (car) battery - each provides 2 volts. They are internally connected in series to provide 12 volts on the + and - posts. If one is cell shorted out - you'd see 10 volts if fully charged. Trickle charge the battery for 24 hours and measure voltage again. If 12 volts, bring it to be load tested. that will tell you the true state of the battery.
A fully charged that is only about 12V indicates a a problem with the battery - dead / shorted cells, etc. You can always remove the battery and have it tested at Autozone or similar auto parts stores if you're unsure. From the info you've provided - my guess is that the battery is "done"
The battery is charged by the alternator. With the engine running, a voltmeter (not a test light) should be connected to the (+) red lead) and (-) (black lead) post of the battery. Expect to see the meter indicate 13.5 to 14.5 Volts DC. If you see LESS that this voltage, the alternator is not powering the car's electrical & ignition systems and not charging the battery. The battery is doing all the work, and it will be drained in a fairly short time. This can be the result of a defective alternator, poor or incorrect electrical connections, open fuse, open "fusible link", etc. Until 13.5 to 14.5 Volts DC is present at the battery post while the engine is running, the battery will NOT be charged. The battery should have slightly more than12 Volts DC available with nothing connected to it. If it is less than 12 Volts with nothing connected, it is discharged. If it is 10 volts or less, it is completely discharged and may have a shorted cell (even if new!). Either way, the battery should be charged with a home charger, trickle charger, or even connected to another car to be charged. The length of time required is determined by the level of discharge it was in when tested. When the battery is at 12 or more, it is considered charged and can be reconnected to your car. Perform the voltage checks again with the engine running.
Typically, the 110 Volt will go into a power center which should include a small amp battery recharger. Your 12 volt lights should run off a 'house' battery which should be isolated from the truck battery, yet, the truck alternator should charge the "house" battery on the road. The device that allows this is called a Isolator. You may find a manual switch instead. You definitely don't want the house and truck battery to both run yourf coach with no recharge capability. Some systems have a 'emergency start" switch which allows you to use the house battery to start the engine. All 12 volt house stuff should run off the house battery and the battery should be recharged by the truck or the small battery charger. Do you have an evap frig? Runs on propane or electricity? It needs 12 volts whether it is running on gas or 110 Volts. The 12 volts runs the control panel and the heat to make it work is supplied by the gas or by a electric calrod if 110 is available.
I am pretty familiar with these electrical systems ... I seriously doubt you will find any information on your 20+ year old motor home. Typically, the printed specs and equipment and the data is obsolete before the ink is dry because the manufacturers use what is available as they build. If you have additional questions simply click on the "add comment" or the "reply" link and I will take a look-see.
I hope this answers your current question. Thanks for your interest in FixYa.com
Hi. What size batteries you buy will be limited to the amount of room you have in the machine.
17 amp hour batteries are really a bit small for any mobility equipement. A lot of power chairs have 35 or 40 amp/hour batteries.
Buy the biggest that will fit into the available space.
Batteries are designed to perform a certain number of "charge cycles". If you run your batteries down by 75%, you will only get a small number of "charge cycles". If you only use 25% of the batteries capacity, you will get 100's of "charge cycles".
The best I have seen is 7 years out of a set of batteries. Short trips and recharging after each trip is the reason.
Good luck. Neil.
A 12 volt battery is actually 13.2 volts fully charged. If you are reading 16 volts, you are probably getting extranious voltage from the system somewhere, especially if the vehicle is running when you check the voltage. The alternator will put out about 15-18 volts to charge the battery normally, and yours may put out 28-32 volts to charge them in series, but the batteries, when disconnected, should never read more than about 13.2 volts each. Typically, it will read about 12 1/2 volts when disconnected. COMPLETELY DISCONNECT BOTH OF THE BATTERIES. If you still read 16 volts when it is disconnected, you must have a bad meter because the battery can't produce that much voltage, no matter what. (Six 2.2 volt cells connected in series inside the case.) Put the meter on a known good battery on another car that is not running and see if you get the same reading. It sounds like the other battery is almost dead, regardless, and it sounds like your series/parallel switch may be malfunctioning. (That is the switch that puts the battery in series to run the 24 volt starter, then puts the batteries in parallel to run the remainder of the vehicle on 12 volts. This is all assuming that you have a diesel vehicle with a 24 volt starter and that is why you have two batteries.
"Battery has juice" but maybe not enough.
It takes 125-200 amps to start the typical engine.
You need to have any kind of multimeter and have someone measure *on the posts* (not the clamps) to see if the voltage drops significantly while trying to start the engine.
If (for example) the voltage drops from (typically) 12.6 volts DC to ~ 10, then the starter should turn the engine over.
If it drops well below 10 volts, your battery is probably nearing the end of its service life.
(Checking the battery voltage without heavily loading it is useless; because of the change in the chemistry of lead-acid batteries, I have often seen a 12 volt battery apparently charge to as much as 19 volts and not be able to supply enough current to operate the headlights.)
If it drops only a few tenths of a volt, the battery clamps or the cable connected to the starter are not conducting enough to supply the needed current; you would need to remove and clean at least the battery clamps and terminals.
If this doesn't help, then it's time to get really dirty, remove the negative cable (you should be able to see if it is grounded to the block or chassis) and then remove and clean the heavy cable attached to the starter itself. Don't service ANY electrical items without removing the ground cable from the battery or suffer a nasty surprise if you short a healthy battery.